For my V6 Honda/Acura engine, guys started to adjust their valve clearance around 105k miles. (They typically don't find anything urgent. But they did it anyway.) This gets me curious. My Camry is 17+ years old with 125k miles. Do I need to think about valve clearance adjustment now? Thanks for advice.
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Given how often I've seen threads where someone had to adjust them (almost never), I'd say wait until you have the valve covers off to check them. Now, if you're hearing abnormally loud tapping noises, then go in and check them.
FWIW, I checked them on my 3VZ-FE at 331k after doing the head gaskets and replacing valve stem seals, and all were within spec. When I checked them on the 1MZ-FE in my Avalon while doing the valve cover gaskets at ~340k, they were all within spec.
FWIW, I checked them on my 3VZ-FE at 331k after doing the head gaskets and replacing valve stem seals, and all were within spec. When I checked them on the 1MZ-FE in my Avalon while doing the valve cover gaskets at ~340k, they were all within spec.
Nice. I guess I can just chilax now. I am terribly bad with noises. So I cannot really tell if there is any strange sound going on. Probably everything is fine.
Yeah, my Camry made tappity-tap noises that the loudness would seem to come-and-go, even when it was new. I took it in to the dealership while it was still under warranty, and the mechanic who came out and gave it a listen said it was normal. I was skeptical at the time. But like I said, when I checked them at 331k miles, they were all well within spec.
I elected to check my valve clearances a few months ago (5SFE) when I was replacing the valve cover gasket. I found a couple of the exhaust valves to be to tight, and all of the other valves that were still within the specs (both intake and exhaust) were right at the lower limits.
I didn't have a mic to measure the bucket shims. You really need to have one if you plan to make adjustments. A dial caliper will not get you accurate measurements so will waste a lot of your time at best.
My exhaust valves that were under the limits were on cylinders 1 and 2. I ended up adjusting the worse one which was on cyl. #2 to get it back into spec. However, it was very time consuming because I didn't have a correct replacement (narrower) shim.
I ended up just leaving both exhaust valves on cyl. #1 out of spec, at their measured .009"; (the min. is .011").
If anyone needs to adjust their exhaust valves, just pull the exhaust camshaft. It really is easier than trying to get those bucket shims out by other means.
On this same subject, a family member had an exhaust valve failure on his 1MZ (V6) this summer. It was on the #1 cylinder on the front bank. When we took off the valve cover, the valve train was absolutely spotless at 180k miles - he runs synthetic oil and there was hardly even any varnish color at all. However after pulling that head, one of the exhaust valve's face had a portion missing so that explained why that cylinder was showing zero compression. That valve was replaced when the head was sent out for repair, and the vehicle is back on the road running fine again now.
I didn't have a mic to measure the bucket shims. You really need to have one if you plan to make adjustments. A dial caliper will not get you accurate measurements so will waste a lot of your time at best.
My exhaust valves that were under the limits were on cylinders 1 and 2. I ended up adjusting the worse one which was on cyl. #2 to get it back into spec. However, it was very time consuming because I didn't have a correct replacement (narrower) shim.
I ended up just leaving both exhaust valves on cyl. #1 out of spec, at their measured .009"; (the min. is .011").
If anyone needs to adjust their exhaust valves, just pull the exhaust camshaft. It really is easier than trying to get those bucket shims out by other means.
On this same subject, a family member had an exhaust valve failure on his 1MZ (V6) this summer. It was on the #1 cylinder on the front bank. When we took off the valve cover, the valve train was absolutely spotless at 180k miles - he runs synthetic oil and there was hardly even any varnish color at all. However after pulling that head, one of the exhaust valve's face had a portion missing so that explained why that cylinder was showing zero compression. That valve was replaced when the head was sent out for repair, and the vehicle is back on the road running fine again now.
Wow. There is always something to worry about ...
I went to youtube and watched a couple of videos. Adjusting valve clearance on 5SFE is no joke. It pretty much requires a timing belt job at the same time. This part is actually A LOT harder than those SOHC Honda engines. For those engines, DIYers do not have to touch camshaft etc.
Several questions.
1. In Hondas, the exhaust valves tend to get to close and the intake tends to get too loose. Cressidaadr's comment seems to suggest that on 5SFE both intake and exhaust valve clearance tend to get too close. So I cannot help ask 'why'?
2. Is there a good tool to take off the small buckets off the head of the valve? In one of the youtube videos, the guy took it off with a big pliers. Kind of scary.
3. Cressidaadr seems to suggest that only the exhaust camshaft needs to come off. Is it correct?
4. So the correct sequence is that we first measure the clearance for all 16 valves and write down the numbers. Then for those out of spec ones, (or for all of them if one wants to be perfect), calculate how much thinner or thicker the shims need to be. Then remove the existing shims and replace them with one with proper depth. Is there a big set of shims we can buy so that we can be reasonably sure that we won't be stuck w/o appropriate shims?
Overall, the biggest mystery is why all the clearance become tighter with usage. Do the valve springs expand?
I went to youtube and watched a couple of videos. Adjusting valve clearance on 5SFE is no joke. It pretty much requires a timing belt job at the same time. This part is actually A LOT harder than those SOHC Honda engines. For those engines, DIYers do not have to touch camshaft etc.
Several questions.
1. In Hondas, the exhaust valves tend to get to close and the intake tends to get too loose. Cressidaadr's comment seems to suggest that on 5SFE both intake and exhaust valve clearance tend to get too close. So I cannot help ask 'why'?
2. Is there a good tool to take off the small buckets off the head of the valve? In one of the youtube videos, the guy took it off with a big pliers. Kind of scary.
3. Cressidaadr seems to suggest that only the exhaust camshaft needs to come off. Is it correct?
4. So the correct sequence is that we first measure the clearance for all 16 valves and write down the numbers. Then for those out of spec ones, (or for all of them if one wants to be perfect), calculate how much thinner or thicker the shims need to be. Then remove the existing shims and replace them with one with proper depth. Is there a big set of shims we can buy so that we can be reasonably sure that we won't be stuck w/o appropriate shims?
Overall, the biggest mystery is why all the clearance become tighter with usage. Do the valve springs expand?
Let me start off by saying that valve adjustment on a Toyota shim-over-bucket engines is a proper pain in the rear. Everywhere I've read about people taking these to the dealer for valve clearance adjustment, most of the time the dealer will try to talk you out of it because it is a super time consuming jobs with hardly any benefits.
The shims are made out of some incredibly strong material and virtually do not wear. They're almost infinitely reusable. You can take the cam out to replace the shims, but my experience was such that I had to take the cam out several times to get the specs right (I was also replacing the valve stem seals and putting in hot cams, so the job was that much more difficult). Next time I will use the proper tool for the job and leave the cams in place.
You do not need to take the buckets out, only the shim that sits on top of the bucket. It comes out with a magnet. Sometimes you need to pry the shim a bit with a small screwdriver if it's stuck. Make sure the video you watched was about the 1st or 2nd gen Toyota bucket design that's in 5SFE (2nd gen), as 3rd gen found in 1zz is shimless bucket where you have to take the cam to replace the whole bucket.
You cannot buy a set as you never know which size shim you'll need and how many of each. There are more than a dozen sizes, iirc. Besides, they're kinda pricey.
Final words? I wanted to do the job because I thought that was the reason for my engine's ticking. Took me 4 days (valve stem seals, new cams), got all the clearances perfect, and guess what - my engine still ticks as before near the TB cover. I don't remember whether it was within spec to begin with (I think it was, can't find my notes), but certainly nothing was way off.
Hope this helps.
The shims are made out of some incredibly strong material and virtually do not wear. They're almost infinitely reusable. You can take the cam out to replace the shims, but my experience was such that I had to take the cam out several times to get the specs right (I was also replacing the valve stem seals and putting in hot cams, so the job was that much more difficult). Next time I will use the proper tool for the job and leave the cams in place.
You do not need to take the buckets out, only the shim that sits on top of the bucket. It comes out with a magnet. Sometimes you need to pry the shim a bit with a small screwdriver if it's stuck. Make sure the video you watched was about the 1st or 2nd gen Toyota bucket design that's in 5SFE (2nd gen), as 3rd gen found in 1zz is shimless bucket where you have to take the cam to replace the whole bucket.
You cannot buy a set as you never know which size shim you'll need and how many of each. There are more than a dozen sizes, iirc. Besides, they're kinda pricey.
Final words? I wanted to do the job because I thought that was the reason for my engine's ticking. Took me 4 days (valve stem seals, new cams), got all the clearances perfect, and guess what - my engine still ticks as before near the TB cover. I don't remember whether it was within spec to begin with (I think it was, can't find my notes), but certainly nothing was way off.
Hope this helps.
Toyota Valve adjusting tool:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Schley-Products-88250-Toyota-Lexus-Valve-Adjusting-Tools-/352048971306
Just clearance adjustment, no need to take cam off. Valve stem seals are obviously a lot more involved, though worthwhile job (reduced oil consumption considerably for me).
I messed up the cam timing when I put in the new cams, engine would not start. Took me a while to troubleshoot that one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Schley-Products-88250-Toyota-Lexus-Valve-Adjusting-Tools-/352048971306
Just clearance adjustment, no need to take cam off. Valve stem seals are obviously a lot more involved, though worthwhile job (reduced oil consumption considerably for me).
I messed up the cam timing when I put in the new cams, engine would not start. Took me a while to troubleshoot that one.
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