There are two petcocks - one under each exhaust manifold. On my RAV4 (which has the same 3.5L engine) I used them to drain the block. Honestly, there was very little fluid relative to what came out of the radiator and hoses. I wouldn't even worry about it. However, when you refill, you do want to use the air bleed which is on top of the engine.

 

Air bleed?

Hmmm....that's new technology for me. I'm just used to running the heater with the radiator cap loose until the car gets to normal operating temp. Can you give me a hint as to where this port is and how to use? Thanks!

 

Hmmm....that's new technology for me. I'm just used to running the heater with the radiator cap loose until the car gets to normal operating temp. Can you give me a hint as to where this port is and how to use? Thanks!

After refilling the radiator with new fluid and up to full mark on overflow tank, start engine and let it idle until the thermostat opens. Connect a 3/8 clear hose to the air bleed nipple and crack it open about 1/2 turn. Run the hose to a catch can. As the engine heats and the fans and thermostat cycles you will see air and fluid being slowly expelled. Refill the overflow as necessary and check you engine temp. Once the air bubbles have quit, close the valve. Test drive to make sure no spikes in temps which would indicate remaining air in the cooling system.

 

There are 2, one on top of the radiator top hose port and one on the top of the engine:

Check your PM's.

 

Two quick questions.

1. Should we buy the radiator coolant from Toyota, or can you find it elsewhere? I've never seen the pink coolant at Wal-mart, only orange. Can it be found at places like AutoZone or AdvancedAuto? Haven't looked there yet.

2. When doing a drain and fill, how much fluid (ie bottles) does it take to refill it back up? I know it's probably in the specifications section of the owner's manual.

Thanks.

 

1) I haven't seen a cheap place yet. Amazon sells it, but its the same price as a dealer's part department, ~$30/gal. I would stick with OEM SLLC pink coolant, plus I don't know of any knock offs atm that are compatible with toyota pink fluid. It has to be a ethylene glycol based "non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, non-borate" coolant

2)
With Tow Package
--With Rear AC = 11.7L or 12.4qts
--Without Rear AC = 9.5L or 10.1qts

Without Tow Package
--With Rear AC 11L or 12.4qts
--Without Rear AC 8.8L or 10.1qts

 

There is one I know of and use. Its Quantum Blue Coolant sold by BND Automotive. I have been using these products for 7 years now in all my vehicles. They are not some fly by night company they produce products for Mil, Industrial and retail sales.

The coolant
http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/2362165.htm

About BND
http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/901818.htm

 

Thanks all!

 

Huh, didn't know there was an air bleed up top. Good to know, SP.

 

^ Don't thank me, Arries289 was the one who mentioned it. I totally forgot about them.

 

When I did mine at 100k, i didnt drain the block. I did however have to watch the coolant level for a few days following, as the overflow would be empty each night. I kept adding to it, until it stopped and leveled off. I know it was because it was nearly impossible to get all the air back out simply using the bleed screw up top. No big deal just as long as you know to check the tank.

 

For those who are interested, you can always flush the system completely and put regular green glycol in. Only downside is you will need to follow a tighter replacement schedule - about every 2-3 years or so. I ran my rav 70K miles will no ill effects on green glycol. Toyota scares you into the pink stuff, but green stuff will work just as well. Do your own research.

 

For those who are interested, you can always flush the system completely and put regular green glycol in.

This sentence can't be emphasized enough. You can do this only if you do a complete flush when you switch from one coolant type to another. NEVER mix/blend different types of coolant.

:disappoin