Looking forward to your tutorial, make sure you do one side at a time, so you can put the fasteners back into their proper spot and please wear safety glasses , as you remove or unfasten the panels , road grime will be coming down on you !

 

Thanks Franco! If you have any cheat sheet notes or pix, please do email them
(Franco did this a while back as I remember)

 

Sorry can't do the picture thing but i can tell you that to do my fogs had to loosen 2 panels, wheel well liners and panel under bumper between both liners. In the manual it says to remove 3 screws to access panel for the bulbs but you also need to remove or loosen panels to remove bezels and or install new ones. For some strange reason Toyota used different fasteners to hold everything together (screws and push-in fasteners), that's why i say do one side at a time or take snapshots of them to get them in their proper spots. All panels are plastic so be gentle. When you do get the original bezels out, install light housings to bezels first , it will be easier to install bezel with light in place. Then when making connections make sure you feel or hear the "snap" of the connector. I used car ramps to give me extra room to work, but if your thin, just wear old clothes and put some cardboard down. The left side took me just over an hour because i was going slow and the right side took only half hour. After lights work , you need to aim them before reassembling the 3 screw panel. I aimed them between the low beams and the ground.

 

LEDs inside a reflector housing produces a lot of glare. I put these LED projector housing into my XLE and they look amazing. The beam cut off is sharp and the beam is so wide and bright. Check them out:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E0P4JSY

I also put a pic of LED in reflector vs LED projector housing comparison. Also, I find it easier to partially removing the plastic wheel well cover from the front wheels to access the fog light area much easier then going under the car. Going under is easier for changing light bulbs, but removing the wheel well cover will be better for installing new fog lights and give you full access to the area you need to work on. You also do not need to be laying on the ground with dirt and rocks falling into your eyes. It is also easier to pop out that plastic cover and screw on the fog lights.

 

I got these
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/c...g-light-housings/morimoto-xb-led-fog-lights-toyota.html?preselect=#.VxPQgEdJkuV

Now seeing the DRL built in, I'm kinda thinking I wish I had seen those before. Would save me the trouble of trying to wire and install the Philips 8LED DRL I have had sitting on a desk for over a year!
I don't know the led chip Zek uses vs the led chips on the XB. Either way, they spec the same.

 

Those are great too! I got Morimoto XB fogs for my Subaru and they are great! The beam is about the same brightness and the beam pattern for both is nice a wide; like 2 car spaces wide on left and right side. Great for dark night driving on the interstates. It lets me see the deer and stuff. I cannot figure out how to wire the DRL so I need to bring it to a shop. I have some super bright LED's as high beams but they flicker like mad for DRL. I was hoping to move my DRL from high beams to these fog lights. I will get it done soon when I'm am not so lazy.

 

You might get your DRL done before mine.
One thing I noticed is the the ZEK are a shallower heatsink. The XB maybe more aggressive at trying to pull heat off the chips.

 

This was more of a pain than I thought Franco!

I did manage to get my big head under it without ramps, but taking off a bunch of screws and fasteners, I'm surprised there were so many!
I removed part of the wheel well along with that splash guard, and was able to pull the flap further back.
I don't know if I got it on right as there is a little misalignment. It could be simple poor quality/?
I got one bezel(with LED on it) in. It took me about an hour. The bezel I got even has the wire slack holder clip.
But, I don't know how this is supposed to turn on. I know you got a new stock on your steering column. I wonder if that is a must.


I will open up the left side of the dash area so I can see behind the blank buttons. I hope I can either use the exisiting wires and some how use the switch. I don't know if I would need a relay. On the fuse/relay box above the windshield washing fluid, there is 1 blank spot, but it says its for HTR or IG(heater, ignition?).

I watched that video of the guy doing such an install on the RAV4, and he has a light blue relay that goes in the fuse box. I just had the 7.5 amp fuse. Hmmmm.....
Looks like I need to do more research. Maybe I need to put this review on hold and do the couple other small and fast ones

Btw, any help is appreciated


There is a white with black 2 tone wire and a blue wire. Which is cathode and anode?

It was dark before I knew it. TBContinued!

 

When i had the turn signal/light/ stalk replaced at dealership they confirmed power to fog light connectors , no relay added and the dash light went on when fogs were turned on. No fuse was added either, remember my fogs go on only with low beams just like a factory system. IF you want to bypass factory wiring you will need to use wiring harness, relay and dash switch suppied with kit

 

Fog relay anyone?

So I started putting the foglights on, and I wanted to use the existing oem wires that are already installed on the car. The foglight kit I got was for new wiring and install of fogs. So the relay that is on their harness is not interchangeable.

Does anyone know where the relay is supposed to go, and what relay spec/part# I need?

So far I see these areas....
On the larger box with mainly fuses, I see FOG RR for a 7.5amp fuse, but this is likely for REAR fogs?

And on the other small box with things that look like relays it is mostly marked PTC HTR (heater?) for 1,2,3 slots....
There is a blank slot #4 marked IG 1

***I had to edit this thread, as I did some reading on our forum, and the 3rd Gen has no such relays to deal with on fogs. It has mosfets as SweeneyP points out.


@SweeneyP?

 

wiring diagram might be helpful here

 

Ok, I read throug 23 Fogging threads and I'm less confused, but still in the dark. This thread was most helpful

So for those with the LE model that want to ADD fogs, you have the following options...

1. Use the wiring kit that came with the new bezels(if you got it from aftermarket like WinJet). This will work independent of the car's oem fog system. You can turn them ON/OFF at independent will.
You WILL NOT see the fog symbol light up*which is a cool touch and feeling of major gratification after the work put in).

2. Use existing wires to get stock functionality of Fog on ONLY when headlights are on, but will need to purchase

turn/light/fog stalk switch, part # 84140-0R010

3. Use existing OEM wires, but ADD a switch in the line. You need the wiring kit with switch, BUT, you have to do UNKNOWN things to get it wired as the 3rd gen HL does not use relays, it uses Mosfets..,..So

(stalk switch working as before mod), BUT, only on or off as the headlights are on and off..Using this relay, the fogs will work as designed (stalk switch working as before mod), but you'll have a separate switch that will override the main ECU and activate the fogs whenever you want. Alternatively you can simply cut that wire (stalk switch will trigger dash fog symbol, but won't turn on the fogs) and wire a new circuit to it to give it GND when you want it on and 12V when off. You'll still need a relay for that.

I'm not exactly sure what to do now...now that the car is apart and only have a few hours of light! You get the OEM symbol when ON.

While that link helps, with the visuals, I am not familiar enough with the wiring to do this, as I don't know where to look for them.

 

This video maybe helpful ro connect to existing wiring harness....

 

Fog Light Mod?


I have my car apart,and still not sure how to approach this.

I see "1D" white, on the diagram.
I also see 1E/White.
But I have no idea where in the dash I should find these OEM wires to split into..

That's because those connectors are in the engine compartment where the image shows.....

I didn't put the ECU side as accessing hte ECU is a PITA and most of the hardware can be installed in the engine compartment.


However, attached, pin 25 on the ECU

 

Ah, OK, yes, I saw the #5 being in the fuse box, but wasn't sure how to split into it with a switch to make it switchable with the OEM wires. Also, I don't think I would need a stock/arm with fog on it as an upgraded trim for having fog would I(as Franco did), as I would think the switch would play that role...except it would have to be with low beams on, or not?

I would really like to have the fog indicator, AND not have to wire things, but I guess I'm not too clear on what wires to use on the harnesses in the images you posted.

 

Alright....

All of this can be done inside the car, under the driver lower dash @ the ECU.

So this is setup to work with a single DPST switch. You'll be performing 2 functions with the switch (hence the double pole). Like the other thread, a relay is used to override the ECU's control over the headlight/fog module in the engine compartment. I didn't change that, just how its powered. Picture should be self explanatory. Basically let the ECU keep the fogs off, but by energizing the relay via your added switch, you will break the OEM circuit and ground that pin on the headlight/fog module, telling it to turn on the fogs. Now the other pole on the switch is used to emulate the fog switch on the stalk. It GND's the ECU pin when the stalk should be "on" and open circuits when "off". Set it up as shown and it should act just like the OEM switch.

NOTE: about the dash fog emblem. Technically, by flipping the switch, your telling the ECU to turn on the fogs, HOWEVER the ecu's signal never reaches the headlight module. Your override will always be enabling the fogs when the switch is thrown. The dash fog emblem will come on if low beams are on. However, if you go to high beams, or your headlights are not on, the emblem will not come up. The fogs should turn on via the override (can't say for sure until someone tries it, but electrically from what I can tell from the FSM, it should), but there is no enabling the dash emblem in those situations. Your constrained by ECU code, and there is no altering that short of reflashing it (and none of us have the base code or hardware to do that.)

Try to look past my lousy handwriting, was in a hurry[emoji38]

ECU pinout

Try not to break it lol ECU's aren't cheap.


Edit: do the stalk emulation trick first. Make sure that works before touching the override portion. Doing just the stalk part will make it work just like a stock oem setup.

 

Alright....

All of this can be done inside the car, under the driver lower dash @ the ECU.

Hi there, I am a bit confused by this diagram and I hope someone can help me understand what's happening here. (I'm good with electronics but do not work on cars a lot.)


For reference, I have the '15 XLE so the fog lamps are already there, I just want to bypass the ECU and run them whenever ignition is on, with a switch to restore factory control of them if I want them off.



As I understand it (I don't have any wiring diagrams for my car and can't find them online) - the "headlight/fog integrated power module" already contains a relay for the fogs. So, why wouldn't we just feed 12v through a fuse and directly into the gray wire with our switch? (Obviously, disconnecting the ECU so it is not pulled high on pin 25.)


I don't see any reason to ground or open the factory stalk switch when I'm bypassing, since the ECU won't honor our request anyway... right? What am I missing?

 

This second picture clarifies a few things

 

I don't know if the switch I got is a "double throw", but it is a single pole.

Why am I getting the feeling that I'm never gonna get this done :-/

 

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/switch-basics/poles-and-throws-open-and-closed

Easiest way to tell, 2 terminals-SP, 3 terminals-DT.

Sent by carrier pigeons via Tapatalk

 

Just installed Philips Ultinon led fog on my LE.

 

Super! How did you go about doing it(how did you set it up to turn on and off? )? And can you take a closeup picture of them with the lights off? How have you setup to function?

 

Looks great..waiting to see how u did it?

 

Since that's a platinum, there is already a DRL wire there, so my guess is that he used the DRLs to switch the fogs on.
Not sure why have drls and fogs on at the same time though. You are no invisible in a giant minivan and when it's dark you have your headlights.

 

Since that's a platinum, there is already a DRL wire there, so my guess is that he used the DRLs to switch the fogs on.
Not sure why have drls and fogs on at the same time though. You are no invisible in a giant minivan and when it's dark you have your headlights.

Its not a platinum as you can read from the title. Also its nice to be a little different to have some extra light. I am sure there are a few of us on here that would like to have the fogs running w/ the DRLs or just have the fogs w/o having to turn on the headlights. And yes we Pretty hard to miss but im sure all those who have crashed into a HL would say otherwise. And does the fog like only make a difference and the answer would be no.

 

There are two things in the assembly. Philips DRL 8 and Philips ultinon fog. Each one has its own control independent of each other. I did not integrate these with car circuit or fuse box.

I cut the assembly to place the Philips DRL8. Changed the halogen bulb with Philips Untinon fog.

For DRL8, it comes with auto relay. Connection is very simple, Relay red wire to the battery +, black wire to battery -. orange wire will tap the low beam + wire. This makes the DRL to be full bright when low beam is OFF. Half bright (dim) when low beam is ON. So, It is automatic. Wiring instruction come with DRL8.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/B1cVQKT9MeS.pdf


For fog, I used the winjet wiring kit. Which is also simple. Below are instructions:

http://winjetinc.com/pdf/winjet_foglights_wiring.pdf

Wiring kit comes with a switch. So, you can turn on or off the fog anytime you want. Does not depend on DRL or anything else. I got someone to pass the wiring from engine compartment to dash and install the switch there.

Both DRL8 and Fog bypass the car circuit and make their independent circuit. Only tapping is for low beam to control the DRL.

I have this setup for 4-5 months now. This week I just changed the halogen with Philips ultinon fog. Highlander maintenance guide will tell you how to reach fogs. You just need to take away three screws underneath.

If you are trying to do it as factory then here is the link. I never tried this.

http://auerautomotive.com/images/pdf/1/T4R-2IN1-Highlander-2015.pdf

Thanks.

 

Thanks @ainu.afnu

I had seen that video, and it might be the way I should do it also, since I don't really want to mess with the ECU, and make a mess or short anything. My gain doing via ECU has minimal gain, if it works.
So I have the same kit, except I replaced the fog with LED's below.

The Philips DRL8 is what I also have, but while it is not as bad as I may make it seam, though I don't like the 1/2"+ part sticking out. But looking at it, it would be pretty hard to make it more recessed, as there is no grip anyplace else.

Although it initially is not the way I want to do the fog function, but I think it maybe the way I end up doing it, so thanks for this post and the pdf's.

 

since I don't really want to mess with the ECU

chicken