Get the code off the CEL when it arrives back. I don't know the code but the vehicle *should* be able to make the trip granted it's not behaving abnormal. This will tell you what is wrong, it eliminates guess work.

The IM gasket is a place to start, it should be replaced on every 03-08 Corolla and Matrix with a 1ZZ-FE but it doesn't necessarily mean that is the cause of the CEL.

I believe the 1ZZ is capable of idle near 2000rpm on the cold start [open loop] if you run A/C (front window defrost setting). Normally bad intake manifold gasket causes a lower idle.

 

You can make it home for sure if it's just a leaking intake manifold gasket (P0171). Some wait much longer to change it. Make sure you get revised orange silicone gasket # 17171-22060 or Victor Reinz # MS19590... Yes, I know those numbers by heart now.

 

^ HA! LOL! That's excellent invader.

It should be fine to drive with. Like exage and invader said, it only will cause high idle and maybe a CEL without any drivability symptoms. As long as you're driving it, just be on the look out for any abnormal behavior.

 

I will agree with most of them about getting it scan right away. If you don't carry any OBD II scanner, there should be a store like Auto Zone that does a free scan.

Your car idling at 2000rpm on a cold start when it's like 2-3 degree is normal. My car idles around there on a cold start but once the engine warms up it drops down.

 

I will also chime in to reiterate some of what the others have said.

1. Cold idle at 2,000 RPM is normal for cold start. It is not normal for warm idle. Which is it?

2. Like others mentioned the CEL code needs to be checked. While the car probably does need an intake gasket, intake gasket codes almost all show up at engine start or warm up. Generally they are P0171 lean codes, P030X misfire codes, or P0133 oxygen sensor codes. Since the gasket leaks show symptoms in very cold weather as the engine is cold, the unmetered air is a large issue. As the engine warms the gasket expands and becomes less of an issue. Additionally vacuum leaks cause more issues at idle/low RPMS than highway cruising. For this reason I don't think the intake gasket can definitively be the cause of codes that showed up after 3 hours of driving.

3. Like others mentioned it is absolutely safe to drive. The largest issue with gasket leaks is the CEL being illuminated and very low warm idle from the vacuum leak. These symptoms are much worse in the cold weather months and we get the largest influx of intake gasket threads during the winter months.

4. As new owner of the car, I highly recommend you consult our DIY and sticky sections for relevant info on these cars. Some good links are below:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...official-ultimate-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-maintenance-thread.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...6-read-first-official-9th-gen-corolla-1st-gen-matrix-diy-forum-info-sticky.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...954-hardtopte72-new-corolla-matrix-vibe-recommendations-thread.html#post8497746

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...a-1st-gen-matrix-2003-2008/316157-9th-gen-toyota-corolla-maintenance-guide.html

 

My thinking is it may have been sold with a cleared P0420 and it popped up... We'll see though.

 

Thanks for the replies everybody. From the sounds of it the car "should" make it home. I will pull the codes and see what the problem is at that point. But just to clarify so far we know.

1) 2000 rpm idle is when cold. Once the engine warms up it is much lower. ( don't remember looking but it felt "normal". 2000rpm didn't feel normal even for a cold car as most of my other cars idle maybe 1400 when cold).

2) The car is in the seatle airport parking right now. Unfortunally my parents are coming back during odd hours so having the codes scanned at a shop won't be an option. I do have the option of driving down with a scanner and pulling the code. From the "sounds" of it, the car should make it.

3) It was reported that the light was on.. but the drives normally. No wierd sounds or "limp" mode.

4) Intake gasket, regardless I guess I'm going to change it. not sure if it has been done or not so i'll go in for a look. Give me a good chance to clean the TB and MAF too while I'm there.

5) P0420 .... hum.... bad cat? or o2 sensor....

Fingers crossed.. we will see

 

If it is a P0420, there a a lot of cheap fixes before replacing the cat. We can cross that bridge once we get there.

 

Update again:

Car is home, no problems on the way back with everything seeming to be normal.

Code is P0133... which on a quick search is a O2 sensor slow to respond.


Any ideas?
*thing of note* We have always "thought" there was a small Exaust leak coming from just under the drivers side door. I put the car on a ramp tho and went down with the car running and it sounded like the noise was coming from the exaust/muffler area when under the car. We just assumed everything was fine. Exaust "looks" fine....

Could a small exaust leak be causing the code? and if so, what's the easiest way to check.

 

The intake gasket causes a P0133:

http://www.toyotapart.com/M.I.L._ON...OR_PO133_ENGINE_RUNNING_LEAN_IN_SUBFREEZING_AMBIENT_TEMPERATURES_T-EG045-07.pdf

 

P0133 is for your upstream O2 sensor on exhaust manifold. It can also be triggered by a leaking intake manifold gasket.

http://www.toyotapart.com/M.I.L._ON...OR_PO133_ENGINE_RUNNING_LEAN_IN_SUBFREEZING_AMBIENT_TEMPERATURES_T-EG045-07.pdf

Exhaust is likely leaking at manifold flange gasket (donut). I upgraded mine with Fel Pro # 61106, and replaced both springs and bolts with Dorman # 675221. Inspect also rear flange at axle-back muffler section. Some had to have it rewelded. Inspect muffler casing, etc.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1432914,parttype,5836

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1432914,parttype,10741