Yes, it sounds like your Door Control Receiver is bad. The receiver is located on the rear passenger pillar. The pillar cover is fairly easy to remove. First, open the rear passenger door, push the rubber door seal to the side and work your fingers under the edge of the pillar cover and pull out on the cover. The cover is held in place by a few plastic plugs that are designed to pop off with a little force. The Receiver is actually a chip/board located in the gray box attached to the frame of the car.
You can buy a new one from a dealer for about the price you listed above or try and find one at a wrecking yard (good luck). There are some wholesale parts dealers online who have them for about $450...still not 20 bucks like you would like, but cheaper than the dealer.

 

2006 Camry. Does anyone know how to test the keyless receiver? Ohm tester? I am getting power to it as per my volt meter. The unit seems to be checking out ok with a ohm meter; if I am doing it correctly. I've reprogrammed it so many times in the last two months I know how to do it without the instructions. The last time it lasted one hour. I got so damn mad I slapped the passenger side rear pillar and the remote worked??? Now I wonder if there is a short circuit somewhere in the plug or wiring.
Sorry for those folks making a living working in Toyota service centers, but when they try and charge me $65 to change my cabin filter or $95 to spray my Mass Flow sensor, I know I'd be taking out a second loan to have them fix the problem.

 

Sounds like a loose connection or a failing component. I would bet a cold solder joint...

 

Thanks for the info. I just get ready to go out and start popping off the panel and the Queen needs the car. "I can't drive the Tundra it's to big". But she'll moan and groan about manually unlocking the Camry at the mall. I should just let her fix it. She'll manually scrub the floors in the house but I had to clean a trash bag full of crap, candy wrappers, coffee lids, magazines, broken sun glasses, pens that don't work, etc. Sorry for that, but I just know I'm going to hear, "Well, it didn't work again!" I'll get some cold solder and find a time to try it soon.

 

What I meant by cold solder joint was that the solder wasn't hot enough or cooled too rapidly and crystallized at the connection.

My hope it would be at the connector to the vehicle wiring... and an easy fix. Surface mounted components are a PITA to solder, properly.

 

I'm sure it will be a PITA, why make it easy. I got my resin/solder combination, my gun and now I have to wait for the car. I figure if I screw it up, it's no big deal, it's broke anyway. Unless it's the control unit and the dealer told me that it can't be tested for that function. If it doesn't work, they just replace it first. That doesn't seem quite right. Then they move to the receiver. It just makes me mad that it had to wait until it was paid off to break. Thanks for your help.

 

LtVTX... I know all about the "dumpster on wheels" thing ... LOL. That and the filthy windows, door dings, and bumper scrapes... and most recently, a giant pothole and broken belt in a tire. But just remember, if momma aint happy, aint nobody happy!

 

Oh my God, I removed the Keyless Receiver from the door pillar with the thought of soldering any broken connections. After I looked at what I had, I decided "You Must Be Crazy". Look like junk yard shopping now. It's crazy to think that I am getting so upset about a remote keyless remote not working. Growing up we took turns sitting next to the tv to slap it when the tubes starting going bad. An "AM" radio was the only choice in a car. A/C was for the rich.

 

I can't make the locks cycle at all for the programming and I don't hear a noise/beep. I would like to know where the DCR fuse and/or relay is for starters. Could someone help me out?

 

More details please.
We are guessing it is Toyota, a Camry. The year would help a lot more, as well as the trim level.

You could try the "ECU-B NO. 1" fuse and it's in the engine bay fuse box.

 

Sorry...2006 Camry LE 4 cylinder

 

I do not have prints for the Gen 5.5.But it might be the same fuse. It's just a guess, on my part.

 

I got a used DCR on ebay for $25 and was able to install it in about 5 minutes! Programmed the remote using the "open and close the door, etc." method and it works great. Much better than the 600+ $$$ the dealer wanted to charge and my mother thinks I am a genuis

Thanks!

 

JSKoehler,

What search phrase did you use? I cannot seem to find any type of used door control RECEIVER or MODULE (DCR or DCM) or even a universal one for that matter.

I want to re-iterate my problem. I can hear the relay "click" inside the cabin fuse box when I manually hit the door control button, but there isn't communication to the Module or Receiver when I try the "close door, open door, etc etc" programming (the doors don't lock/unlock involuntarily). This would mean the DCR/DCM is bad right?

Any and all help is kindly welcome! :thanks:

 

I entered a recurring search on eBay for "camry door control module" and also for the part number (which for my mother's car was "89741-AA02​0"). It was the latter that helped me identify the part as the correct one when the former got a hit (I could see the OEM part # on the bracket in one of the pictures). You problem sounds not exactly like the one I was experiencing -- i.e. door looks work fine on in the in-car switch and auto-lock when in gear. If you vehicle's locks are are not locking at all (except manually) and you hear no sound at all when attempting to program the remote (you should here a soft chime or beep sound), it is more likely a fuse, relay or broken electric connection -- which is beyond my working knowledge. Did it fail slowly or all at once? In my case the remote was at first only intermittently not working (which we suspected was a weak battery), then ultimately not at all.

 

PS as you can tell from the date of my first post and my "resolved" post, it took quite a while for the right part to show up on eBay -- although I got a hit every week for the same listing of a 1997 model DCM that never sold

 

JSKoehler,

Thanks for the info. As I started looking, I could tell that it may take a little while like you said...lots of older models though

 

still searching for a DCR, but I'm buying an aftermarket for now.

 

I just read this thread and replaced the remote door control unit. I have little experience with cars but it sounded so simple that I bought the part and replaced the unit. It was for my 17 year old daughters new car. I wanted her to have the safety of remote lock and panic. She programmed the keys and everything works great. Thanks for the help.

 

It looks like I may have to replace my DCR on my 2006 XLE V6.

Just wondering if a failed DCR could be the reason why I cannot get the car to go into programming mode.

 

If the failed receiver is not responding to any commands (door functions), it would seam reasonable that the programming functions will not work either.

Best guess failure is it is not receiving (hearing) any commands (RF or wired from the body computer communication link) and would be unable to respond.

While you are replacing the DCR, unplug the old one and wait awhile (90 plus seconds) an plug it back in.
Just to verify it is still dead and just needed to be reset with all power removed. (The comm link could prevent this.)

 

Thanks to the discussions here, I was able to replace DCR on my camry 06 just now and it works!!!

The only problem is that I don't know how to put back the pillar that I teared open.
How to hook up again the plastic plugs??? I tired to push them back in and doesn't seem to work.

Thanks much!

 

This video helps on how to put the pillars back in.

 

Thank you all for useful thread!
Could anyone help me which fuse # from this diagram should I replace to reset DCR to retry programming key fob. I mess up the first time of door locks cycle.
http://www.autogenius.info/toyota-camry-2004-fuse-box-diagram/

 

My experience with an 06 Camry with pics

Its a two beer job, need a 12mm deep socket or extended socket to remove the bolt at the bottom of the right rear passenger pillar where it meets the seat. Push up on the pillar, and pull towards you to release. Then pull the hard liner above and slightly to the left. You can get under it and pop it out. Control box will be staring at you, 10mm socket will remove it. Before replace liner, for me some of the white clips were in the liner and some stayed on the body. Pull the ones on the body and insert into the slotted holders on the liner, then reinstall liner (adjust the rubber seal). Reinstall pillar and bam, its re-programming time. Got a used module on ebay or $30.

 

Thanks all for helpful information. Were able to fix my mom car. Here's another close up clip of the DCR unit.

 

I realize this is an older post but thanks for any help. I am having problems with my 2005 Camry door locks. The key fob will lock but no unlock. The door lock control switch on the driver side will not unlock other doors. Thinking about replacing the DCR. I pulled the back passenger pillow column and its not there does anyone know of another DCR location for this model Camry?

 

May not be the DCR. The lock modules in these are notoriously bad and fail - it's the little motor in the actuator that fails. I have posts up where I show how to change just the motor in my 2009 Camry Mod and Fix 'er Up Thread.

 

Thanks for the fast response to my question will check it out

 

Might be my 2015 4Runner thread come to think of it. I'll look for it and post the link up.

 

thanks very much have a great evening