This is a great thread explaining it: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...um/130-7th-generation-1993-1997/642970-climate-control-panel-97-corolla-ce.html

The Haynes guide is correct... that's all there is to it. You need to pull pretty hard the first time.

 

That's a great writeup. How do I pull without cracking the plastic? Gently? And I'll need tools to grab the bezel first, right? Perhaps a screwdriver covered in electrical tape?

Also, what are the bulb numbers? The dealership didn't know and suggested I come back with the old bulbs.

The HVAC light seems to be a 74, though I don't know what the defroster light is. I'm going to reuse the 'socks.'

 

No tools. Use your fingers. Don't be gentle, pull hard. You won't break the plastic as long as you don't use tools.

The other link I sent should have all the bulb info you need if I recall correctly. It's a bit further out in the thread.

 

You rock 94RollaDad! Nothing left to it but to do it (carefully).

 

Almost all of your dash bulbs are going to be 74s or 194s. I switched mine to blue LEDs. LEDs don't work too well for the climate controls, but great for the gauges.

 

Almost all of your dash bulbs are going to be 74s or 194s. I switched mine to blue LEDs. LEDs don't work too well for the climate controls, but great for the gauges.

 

The defroster and hazard switch lights are twist ins. I don't know what they are.

 

Post #6: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/130-7th-generation-1993-1997/292337-led-dash-overhaul.html

The hazard/defroster are NEO4, and the AC button is NEO3. Special bulbs. I'd recommend not getting LEDs, they're too directional and are either too dim or just light part of the button (at least in my experience, 94RollaDad experienced otherwise). Dealer wants $13 per bulb, bad idea I think. I've been struggling with this issue myself, I might just cave in and get dealer bulbs.

Quick edit: To illustrate my point.

A basic flat SMD LED provided this:

Another option is to buy microbulbs from Radioshack and insert them into the original bases, but the color is ugly and the original condoms don't fit:

5mm LEDs don't fit into the bases, too thick, and too tall when sticking out:

I ended up getting flat SMD NEO4 LEDs on eBay, the bases didn't even fit into the switches. But I did take out that SMD, bend it into a particular direction, and stick it into the original base. Even and bright lighting, but WAY too bright. Obnoxiously so. Not sure what kind of SMD you get, but I got one that was overly bright. This is the same SMD that lit only half the switch when facing straight up.

This style of LED I found on eBay works. It worked GREAT as an indicator light, but when put behind text, it was super dim. Results will vary, I guess.

The bulbs I ordered from SuperBrightLEDs were too dim. Top was OEM that was 17 years old, bottom is brand new LED:

Also, the NEO3 I ordered from SBL for the A/C switch was too long to fit into the switch:

It's a very tough call. My defroster button is still unlit. Be prepared to experiment if you don't go OEM.

94RollaDad, do you happen to know the part numbers for the original defroster and hazard bulbs? I've tried to find them but failed, and I know Toyota still sells them.

 

Post #6: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/130-7th-generation-1993-1997/292337-led-dash-overhaul.html

The hazard/defroster are NEO4, and the AC button is NEO3. Special bulbs. I'd recommend not getting LEDs, they're too directional and are either too dim or just light part of the button (at least in my experience, 94RollaDad experienced otherwise). Dealer wants $13 per bulb, bad idea I think. I've been struggling with this issue myself, I might just cave in and get dealer bulbs.

No I agree with you, incandescent is better. My new Hazard button LED was good. The defroster button one was a bit weak. Much better than nothing and sufficient for my needs but I agree an incandescent bulb would do a better job. Happy enough with what I've got with LEDs though.

 

You can snag them out of OEM stereos at the junkyard. I salvaged a few out of my old '90 Corolla's factory stereo, for the 7th gen stereo I got at the junkyard for my '93.

New microbulbs are out there... For example:
http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?w=micro bulb
I wonder if any of these could be made to work.

 

^Wait, how can you get them out of the radios? Does that mean you can change the lights in the radio/tape/CD deck too (volume knob, display etc.)?

If so, that's exciting.

Those microbulbs you linked don't seem to be twistins though.

 

^Wait, how can you get them out of the radios? Does that mean you can change the lights in the radio/tape/CD deck too (volume knob, display etc.)?

Yes. Particularly the one behind the frequency display, but I got all of my radio lights working. Only ones which don't work are in my hazrd and defrost switches, and maybe the ashtray.

I'll give part numbers a look.

Pete, I think grabbing them from the junkyard defeats the purpose of replacing bulbs. They should be new, at least in my opinion.

Thanks for the link. This might work: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-1370

12V and 3mm wide, that's the closest thing. But they want $8 shipping, for ONE BULB. What the fax.

Agreed, on the NEW bulbs, however, if the only alternatives are very expensive or inconvenient, then it might be the more sensible way to go - you can always do it over. I only related this sentiment, because many of us here are not averse to working on our cars.
I didn't notice the shipping charges, yikes! If I was going to do a mail order, I'd get a bunch of them. But, fortunately, MCM has a warehouse just 30-40 minutes up the highway from me, and being something of an old fart, the concept of walking into a retailer's location and plunking down payment and receiving my merchandise in person, is still my preferred method, although I have bought plenty of stuff via the interwebs.

I once bought radio shack microbulbs for a Sony car stereo, but I messed up and got bulbs spec'ed for 12V. When I put them in, they were dim - it turns out that the Sony steps the voltage down to 6V, and requires 6V bulbs for full brightness. It was still an improvement...

 

I'll give part numbers a look.

Pete, I think grabbing them from the junkyard defeats the purpose of replacing bulbs. They should be new, at least in my opinion.

Thanks for the link. This might work: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-1370

12V and 3mm wide, that's the closest thing. But they want $8 shipping, for ONE BULB. What the fax.

EDIT: Found this. So awesome, colors and 100 count. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MP02-100pcs...ulbs-Mixed-Color-RYBGW-NEW-/221091225777?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item337a1060b1

And I forgot to reply to you, Apples555. They are indeed not twist in, but the bulbs in the switches are just regular bulbs in bases. You can unwrap the leads, straighten them out, and pull out the bulb. Then you stick in a new bulb and wrap the leads around, cutting the excess off.

EDIT2: 4mm, even better! http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIPS-FROM-...t-mini-lamps-bulbs-12-v-dc-/230958896783?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item35c639168f

LAST EDIT: The original bulbs are 4mm, just found them and measured. The bulbs I got that were undersized are 3mm. So yeah, I'll buy these 4mm bulbs and try them out! Unless someone tells me that they're wrong. Also red caps: http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-pcs-Red-...ain-of-Wheat-Bulbs-or-LEDs-/151297913974?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item233a0ef476 and various color caps but more expensive http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-4mm-Bul...-T1-25-/271514827369?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=570348139044&hash=item3f378b7a69