Replaced all motor mounts with a set on eBay - although original mounts weren't too bad

Aftermarket mounts are generally crap... so those probably didn't help anything.

Have you done a compression test on the engine? It might help to see if one or two cylinders is low on compression...

-Charlie

 

Good idea to test that. I just rented the tool and will test it tomorrow. Hopefully the pressure for each cylinder isn't too bad.

 

I'm thinking you have a dead cylinder on the engine. A way to check this is, while the engine is running, pull a spark plug wire off of the spark plug on #1 cylinder - if the engine runs worse, then that cylinder is working well. If the engine doesn't sound different at all when the spark plug wire is removed, that cylinder is not firing. Put the spark plug wire back on and move onto #2 cylinder, then #3 cylinder, and finally, #4 cylinder. If you find one cylinder that is not firing, check your cylinder compression pressures (as white90dx advised) - this will tell us a lot about the air side of the engine. If pressures are all about equal and good, check for spark. If spark is all good, check for fuel (injectors).

 

check for fuel (injectors).

This is also a definite possibility with so much time sitting - things get sticky, drippy or clogged if they aren't used regularly.

-Charlie

 

Check for OBD 1 codes.

 

There isn't much that the computer will report that would lead to engine roughness. No CEL for any sort of misfire. Only hint might be a lean or rich code.

-Charlie

 

Yes, I would suspect fuel next. Ignition issues will not present how you are describing things.

I you really want to get this solved, the next step might be getting the injectors cleaned (like, removing them and sending them off to a service like RC Fuel Injection or similar).

The mounts might still be an issue, but I run near-solid polyurethane mounts (for the F/R torque mounts) and even then I wouldn't describe the vibrations like you do...

-Charlie

 

Yeah maybe there's some build up in the injectors. Is it better to send them to a shop to get fixed or to buy some online?

 

I decided to do a leak test since I had the smoke machine already and discovered that both the EGR valve and EGR vacuum modulator seem to be leaking. Is this normal behavior and would it contribute to engine vibrations?

 

That smoke looks to me to be coming from beneath both items you mentioned. Is there oil dripping onto the exhaust pipe that is immediately below those EGR components?

 

I don't see any oil or anything leaking/dripping down. I recorded some more videos trying to get better angles of the leak when using the smoke machine.

 

Where was the smoke injected, intake?

 

I connected the smoke machine hose to the hose that runs to the brake booster.

 

So then likely leaky EGR valve. If you don't have to get emissions tests I would remove the EGR valve completely all it does is carbon up the engine.

 

And its not a CA emissions engine with the EGR temp sensor...

-Charlie

 

I'm deciding to just replace both components and I've already got a Denso Modulator replacement but I'm having trouble finding an EGR valve. The part number for my current one is 25620-74150 but I can't find anything online to buy one. I've only found ones for the manual transmission and they have the left port blocked off which I need for a wire or connector that runs into mine (not sure what it is).

There's a valve that looks exactly like the one I'm looking for but it has a different part number: 25620-74240. Would it be a good idea to order this valve and see if it fits or should I try a valve from a junkyard nearby?

 

Per the parts diagram below, 25620-74150 is an EGR valve for a California Spec 1989 Camry 3S-FE. So I'm thinking that wire/connector you reference involves an exhaust gas temperature sensor, which is used on California Spec vehicles to verify there is EGR flow when the system is activated, and the temperature sensor senses the heat of the exhaust gas to provide this confirmation.

P/N 25620-74240 is an EGR valve used on 1995-1996 Camry's with the 5S-FE 2.2L engine and automatic transmission. It is also downward compatible with 1992-1994 Camry's. It does not appear to be compatible with a 1989 Camry though. Yet, in the bottom parts diagram showing 26520-74240, many of the other parts of the system share the same part numbers. I looked up 25620-74240 and I do not see any form of electrical wiring connectors or connections on it. That would lead me to believe it would be similar to a Federal emissions EGR valve for a 1989 Camry 3S-FE, but not your California Spec EGR valve. Perhaps you should show a close-up clear photo of your EGR valve with that connector so we can understand it better.

 

Just learned that my car is a Cali emissions car which sucks because I've always thought it wasn't. Gonna be hard finding an EGR valve for cali spec.

 

On the 25620-74240, there's a port on the side like mine, what would this be for on the 5sfe engine? If it's for a sensor wouldn't mine fit as well?

 

I think you may be right. Below is a parts diagram for the 1994 model utilizing 25620-74240, and it shows the EGR Gas Temperature Sensor 89412-33040. Now going back to the 1989 Camry 5S-FE w/ automatic transmission and California Spec, the diagram at the bottom also shows an EGR Gas Temperature Sensor, although this sensor part number is 89412-12010. So will your EGR Gas Temperature Sensor fit into 25620-74240? I don't know. But I'm thinking 1994 & up models didn't differentiate the EGR Valve by Federal & California, because both emissions types started used what was a California Spec EGR valve in 1994 going forward. I think it is worth a try, as long as your purchased EGR valve can be returned if your EGR Gas Temperature Sensor will not screw into the EGR valve.

 

I think you may be right. Below is a parts diagram for the 1994 model utilizing 25620-74240, and it shows the EGR Gas Temperature Sensor 89412-33040. Now going back to the 1989 Camry 5S-FE w/ automatic transmission and California Spec, the diagram at the bottom also shows an EGR Gas Temperature Sensor, although this sensor part number is 89412-12010. So will your EGR Gas Temperature Sensor fit into 25620-74240? I don't know. But I'm thinking 1994 & up models didn't differentiate the EGR Valve by Federal & California, because both emissions types started used what was a California Spec EGR valve in 1994 going forward. I think it is worth a try, as long as your purchased EGR valve can be returned if your EGR Gas Temperature Sensor will not screw into the EGR valve.
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I'm hoping that the different numbers for the temperature sensor is just because they changed the connector. I will pickup an EGR valve from Autozone so I have that possibility of returning it. Thank you for your help!

 

Their is a 91 i4 MT in my yard I just pulled from, I can grab that for you if needed.

 

Hello everyone, I apologize for the late response/update. I installed the new egr valve and modulator and have been driving the car for a while and the vibration is still there. I might just have to try seeing if it's an injector issue or something else, I'm not sure.

 

Maybe it’s just the way it is. Both the 5sfe and 3sfe engines I’ve had were a little buzzy at idle, enough that steering wheel vibrated.

 

Update, it turns out 2 of my engine mounts were completely shot which included the front left engine mount. I decided just replace them all with actual quality ones although it was difficult to find them and had to order the front left mount like three times from different brands because they didn't fit. After replacing the mounts as well as the shocks, the vibrations disappeared.

Moral of the story: Buy quality motor mounts!

 

Which motor mounts did you get?