Take the whole filter housing off, then separate the drain plug later.

Opening the drain plug first and attaching a hose in there just prevents some of the oil from dripping when you open the filter housing.

Use proper torque when putting them back so you can open them easier next time.

25Nm for filter housing abs 13Nm for the plug on the filter housing (for V6 AWD / 2GR-FE)

Drain bolt at the bottom of the pan is 40Nm


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Use proper torque when putting them back so you can open them easier next time.

25Nm for filter housing abs 13Nm for the plug on the filter housing (for V6 AWD / 2GR-FE)

Drain bolt at the bottom of the pan is 40Nm

Thanks for the torque specs. This is the first oil change on a newly purchased used Venza, and the idea that anyone used proper torque on these plugs is laughable. They were all really difficult to get off, and of course one didn't come off at all.

 

The oil and filter are already changed for this time. But the housing plug just wouldn't come off even after removing the housing.

I had a ratchet in the plug and a fabric loop pipe wrench on the housing to torque in the opposite direction. It didn't budge. I gave up for fear of crushing or damaging the aluminum housing.

 

Don't bother with the filter housing drain plug. I won't ever be removing mine. No matter how you do it you will end up with oil on your hands, wear gloves.

 

Don't bother with the filter housing drain plug.

I guess the choice is made for me. I don't see how to remove the filter housing drain plug, at least not without risking damage. Is this a common issue?

 

Mine opens fine but I made sure it is not overtighten at each oil change and oil the o rings.

 

If you couldn't remove the plug even with the cap off the car, then I'd guess it's threadlockered on there. Because if the previous owner were just to over tighten it to the extreme, the plastic cap might strip before the bolt can be stuck on there for good.

As to why, maybe PO thought the idea of a drain plug was a joke and would rather drain by removing the cap as some members do.

 

the plastic cap might strip before the bolt can be stuck

I don't see any plastic, just aluminum.

The previous owner/oil change shop likely WAY over tighten it then.

Seems so. I doubt the previous owner did their own oil changes. I guess I'll just let it be.

 

The previous owner/oil change shop likely WAY over tighten it then. I was very careful when I do mine, and it feels like it wasnt that tight yet already reached torque spec.

 

The v6 comes with metal housing. I think it is the 4 cyl that comes with plastic housing.

 

Yeah, V6's got the metal. Then it's just over tightened. With the 4-cyl, I would think the brass thread insert would strip.

 

There have been numerous post where this has happened to people. When it comes time to do the next oil change, you can try holding the housing with a strap wrench and use a 3/8" square drive breaker bar on the cap. You can try spraying some penetrating oil in there, but I don't think that it would get to where it needs to be in order to help. As for thread-locker, I think that's a stretch. More likely it was just an oil change by someone inconsiderate who didn't care to do it right.

Just in-case:
Filter Cover - Toyota (15620-31060) (This is if your cap is metal for 6-cyl)

or​

Engine Oil Filter Housing - Toyota (15620-36020) (This is if your housing is plastic for 4-cyl)

Plug - Toyota (15643-31050)

I use 10, 20, 30 for the torque on my Avalon (same parts). 10 lb-ft on the plug. 20 lb-ft on the cover. 30 lb-ft on the pan plug. (I think it's actually 18 on the cover, but +2 lb-ft is no big deal) Be sure to lube the O-rings and screw in by hand to prevent cross-threading the cover.

BTW, I use one of these when draining the oil from the cover. It works great with no mess. The plastic tool that comes with a filter is more trouble than it's worth. Since the oil is seeping through the filter, it takes a while to drain but no longer than it would take with the plastic tool.
Oil Filter Drain Hose Tool

 

@lE5QE0 That's exactly what I tried: spraying WD-40 around the plug and using a strap wrench on the housing with a ratchet on the square drive. I don't have a breaker bar, so I fit a pipe over the ratchet, but keeping the strap wrench in place is the harder part.

I stopped when I noticed some scratches on the aluminum housing possibly from the strap wrench's metal head. I was afraid to deform or break the aluminum housing.

I wonder if an impact wrench would have more luck, but the only one I have is a 1/2" drive and I don't have an adapter to 3/8".

 

Best practice is just to not even remove that drain plug. When doing the oil change, just concentrate on removing the entire oil filter holder/cannister, leaving the drain plug on it. The drain plug was only foolishly put there to drain the small amount of oil from the cannister before removing the cannister and filter. A foolish over designed and unneeded part. I have just removed the entire cannister many times. No need to remove the drain plug each time. Thanks.

 

Save your time, don't bother with the plug. Four steps needed when dealing with the plug that you can skip, 1 finding the correct socket to fit the plug, 2 removing plug, 3 changing o-ring, 4 and then reinstalling the plug. Not to mention the aggravation that some people run into. That plug is not needed. Just as John said,

 

@johnwill, I agree. No-harm, No-foul by just leaving the plug in the cover for the change. It's quicker and messier but works just fine.

 

Yes, looks like that plug is more trouble than it's worth. It bugs me a bit, but doesn't seem worth the effort to get it unstuck.

 

I put it in a vice (not hard enough to bend it out of shape), then took a ratchet to the stupid thing and they came apart for me. Maybe keep a little oil on it while trying to loosen it. But remember tighten the vice too much and you will need to buy a new one cause you will bend it out of shape.... Good luck.

 

I put it in a vice

I was going to try that too, but my something in my vice broke while trying to open it wide enough to hold the housing... The vice handle became difficult to turn, something snapped, and then the handled started unscrewing without opening the vice jaws any further.

 

Well before you put an impact wrench on it, consider having a spare cap unless you won't need the car for a while. Then again, it's about USD$30 plus shipping online if it bugs you.

 

it's about USD$30 plus shipping online if it bugs you.

It bugs me a little, but not enough to spend more time or money on it.

What's really bugging me is that a bushing is loose in a rear knuckle, which the dealer says requires changing the whole knuckle for $$$, and I just found out that the parking brake is broken and dragging: Parking brake broken?

 

Like he said, use a vice.
I was changing the oil on the Princess’ IS200t this weekend and ran into the same issue, turning the drain plug cap loosened the entire filter housing.
Her housing is plastic, using soft jaw clamp inserts on the vise, I was able to break the drain plug loose.
Torqued the filter housing back on the engine and then torqued the drain plug to spec. Shouldn’t be an issue next go around.

And yes, that drain plug thing is useful for not getting a crap load of hot oil all over my hand.

 

The drain plug was not foolish, I use it for my drain plug valve.....lol. remove the cap click the tube on. oil drains out and the wind does not blow oil everywhere all over the drive way.... Fast, easy and clean oil changes. (I know some people do not like the drain plug valves). I like mine.

 

Can easily be removed with impact wrench. Homedepot/lowes/walmart have various equivalent if HF isn't your brand

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