Are your floor mats jamming the accelerator pedal? If your mats move around or shift position they can get stuck under the pedals and cause this. This happens when using cheap aftermarket mats, or OEM mats in poor repair.

 

No, the floor mat is not causing it. I've read posts regarding the mat and I checked.

I forgot to mention:
2001 Solara V6.

 

Any surety the acceleration was related to braking or possibly a coincidence? Does the acceleration reduce if you get off the brake?
Wondering if it's vacuum system-related since brakes are vacuum-assist.

 

Cruise control on?

 

Quoting to replies doesn't seem to work on phone.

So far, it's only happened when I step on the brakes. I haven't tried letting off the brakes. I'm afraid to drive it now. It's random. I did read something about the vacuum.

I haven't check to see if cruise control is on. If it was on, the braking should turn it off.

 

Curious about this since I was mystified by the past reports of so-called "runaway" Toyotas. I just looked at my car, a 2000 V6 Solara, and there only seem to be a few fairly easily evaluated ways your car could accelerate unexpectedly. The brakes are vacuum-assist but the vacuum line appears to be relatively un-linked to other vacuum systems....just based on a visual examination. The vacuum line from power brakes runs to the intake plenum just downwind from the butterfly/IAC assembly. I THINK for your car to rev up to 5,000 rpm, both fuel and air intake are going to have to increase unless something odd like your engine already running rich is already present. There are two other things. The cruise control is apparently run off of an electronic system, not vacuum. You might try ruling it out by unplugging the CC at the CC controller under the hood. The last thing I saw was if you are wearing very wide shoes and are stepping on the far right hand side of the brake, you could also be depressing the accelerator. For my car, it appeared unlikely the accelerator would be significantly depressed this way unless your brake master cylinder is worn and the brake goes down a long way before braking.
Just brainstorming here!

Oh, strange idea but I had trouble with a lawnmower a few years back. Doesn't really seem like your issue but it wouldn't idle down and that was due to one of the the two screws that hold the intake air butterfly valve to its control shaft being missing. The butterfly valve rotated off-center to its control axis and then would not close when the throttle was reduced.

 

Electronic throttle control is quite different form a physical linkage.

 

Not sure, but I think the OP's throttle is controlled by physical cables with two exceptions. The cruise control appears to be electronically controlled...and applies changes via the throttle control cable the foot feed also uses. Some of the timing and idle control adjustments are via electrical systems. Some of those might be suspect but wonder if they have enough control to run the rpm up to 5,000. I think it's a given that the cruise control has that much control and certainly the shared foot feed linkage also does. Just comparing physical (cable type linkages) and electrical controls here. I assume the vacuum controlled systems are the third category to consider in the full picture.

 

Check your brake lights to see if they work. The last time I looked at this on a schematic, the cruise control deactivation circuit is controlled by the brake light activation circuit. It was a 90's or 2000's model Toyota something. just off the top of my head. If your brake lights don't come on, you won't disable cruise control. And the c/c deactivation circuit should be verified as well depending on where it branches away from the brake lights circuit.

 

Also does your car have VSC, Dynamic Laser Cruise Control, Regular Cruise Control, Traction Control or any issues with the Over Drive? I know my 2004 Sienna will cancel cruise control when any fault occurs such as a failure in the stop light SW wiring, or the vehicle speed signal, or any malfunction in the electronically controlled throttle parts. I see your fault as to likely be in the only other thing on your car controlling the throttle, besides your foot, essentially an uncommanded throttle. And is your Solara a manual or automatic transmission?

Also, scan for any OBD2 error codes, as it's very likely you're gonna have a reporting code with this fault.

 

Toyota has examined this situation by pulling data from the "black box".That takes a special and exclusive piece of equipment. It tells all conditions and their duration. Especially in the case where the driver claimed he held the brake firm and the car continued to speed up the black box told the true story and even though the driver wore the brake pads to the metal, crashed and died, the facts and the story did not match. Later Toyota issued a recall to change the throttle hardware to keep it from being able to recreate that situation. Look up your car by VIN to see if it was included in the recall, but not repaired.

Possible causes could be floor mat trapping the gas pedal, accidentally putting the foot on both pedals, and carbon in the throttle sticking the butterfly open. A Toyota mechanic can find these defects if they exist in your car. Take it in for repair.

 

Especially in the case where the driver claimed he held the brake firm and the car continued to speed up the black box told the true story and even though the driver wore the brake pads to the metal, crashed and died, the facts and the story did not match.

The investigators talked to him after he died?

 

Your particular vehicle has an electronic throttle body that drives by wire, rather than a mechanical cable. The electronic throttle body relies on signals from the accelerator pedal to know how much to open or close the throttle plate. A problem with the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor, associated wiring, or a faulty throttle body motor could be the culprit. A quick test for this would be to have an assistant press and release the accelerator pedal, with the key on and the engine off, while you listen closely for the sound of the throttle plate moving or visually watch it by pulling the air intake system off of the throttle body. If you can’t hear it moving smoothly and normally, then there is a problem with one or more of the above mentioned items. It might a bad throttle body or severely gummed up with carbon or fuel deposits. I would also check the fuse for the throttle body. It’s located in the engine compartment fuse panel, labeled "ETCS" which stands for electronic throttle control system. It’s a 10 amp red fuse and will blow out if the throttle body draws too many amps. (A high amp draw could be due to a dirty gummed up throttle bore). You can also clean this with some throttle body cleaner to make sure it operates smoothly. Check this thoroughly as well.

 

Drive by wire on my 2001 car?

I was thinking of a dirty gummed up throttle body or cable.

But why does it only happen while braking? At least so far. It's not doing it while on the accelerator.

 

A lot of the facts with what little I know from Wikipedia were that there were no facts and some news investigations intentionally made the throttle act improperly in order to get unattended acceleration. Under normal operation, it does not happen. Not to say it can't happen but it would be rare.

 

Also correct me if I am wrong, the 1MZ did not zone with electronic throttle control. The 3MZ might've but I know my mom's 03 Highlander with the 1MZ sure did have a physical linkage.

 

Pretty sure it's not DBW.

 

I have never seen a 1MZ w/DBW, 3MZ yes.

 

That is what I figured so let's not think about electronic throttle control because it is not valid here.

When I am thinking of unattended acceleration for this situation, I am thinking either cruise control or a sticky throttle. This is the "easy" stuff. I don't know what to look after this.

 

I was just assuming the 2001 would be similar but there could have been a change made at 2001. My 2000 has a physical cable to the butterfly valve. In the case with a physical cable, does the fuel input get calculated? That circumstance could open up some new possibilities....including a loose butterfly attachment like the lawnmower I have. I have never heard of that here though.

 

Hi,

An update...

I finally took my car to my own mechanic last Thursday. I was going to take it to a dealership but the service dept's ratings were not good at all 3 near me.

My mechanic checked everything and test drove the car over a 3 day period. He wasn't able to get the sudden surge.
The car has a physical throttle cable. I asked what his best experience guess on what could be causing the problem.

He said that the Idle Control Valve. I did a search on that part and found some info. He asked me if I wanted to do the replacement myself and said not to buy a cheap one, buy a good expensive one. I decided to have him replace it since I've been so busy lately.

I drove the car to work and back today with one hand on the shifter and staying back from cars. We'll see if this happens again.

Aamco:
Irregular Idle Speed

One of the most common symptoms that are associated with a faulty idle control valve is irregular idle reading. An idle control valve is designed to regulate the car’s idle speed at a constant rate. In case the valve is faulty, it will cause the idle speed to be thrown off. This will result in a low or high idle speed, and in some cases, a surging idle speed that falls and climbs erratically.

Another site:
My car was running smooth and great, until it started to have a idle surge. Then the idle increased higher and higher. Now it idles at 2500 to 3000 rpm's in park, and around 1300 to 1500 in drive. I checked for vacuum leaks, found nothing. Replaced PCV valve, valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, cleaned throttle body, nothing helped. On a test drive, I had to hold the brake going through a school zone, because it will run at 35 mph, with my foot off the gas. Car is not driveable like that. How do I fix this?

Another site:
Car:
2002 Chevrolet Impala, 3.4L engine, Automatic.

Symptoms:
Intermittent high idle upon start.
Intermittent high idle while driving (as if the cruise control is activated).
Intermittent high idle (audible) when at stop after driving (even if the car idled fine upon start).

Findings at Shop:
None.
No diagnostic codes.
High idle blamed on IAC (idle control motor).
(It appears that when the car idle fine nothing is even sending questionable data to the PCM).
(It appears that when the car is idling high, nothing points to a specific sensor/control)

What I did:
Shotgun sensors until I found a something that seems to fix the problem.

Sensors replaced:
IAC (intake air control valve, replaced at shop for $250.00 (parts and labor).
IAT (intake air temp sensor, purchased for parts store for $15.00).
TPS (throttle position sensor, purchased at stor for $40.00).

What finally worked for me was the replacement of the TPS.
The car now seems to be working fine (hopefully it continues to do so).
It could have been linked to all three for all I know.
I did replace them in steps (first the IAC, then the IAT, then the TPS).
The only thing that proved to make a difference was the new TPS.

My suggestion to anyone that has this problem.
Replace these three items, they are cheap when purchased at a parts store (not from the dealer).
They are all in the same area on the motor/intake.
All the parts should cost you less than $150.00.
You need some tools (torx drivers, extensions, socket wrench, etc).
For a novice, within one to two hours you should be done.

Hope it works for you.
I suffered with the problem for two years. I am so glad that it finally appears to be over!

 

Within a week, I've experienced sudden acceleration twice while breaking. The engine revved up to 5K rpm.

Putting in neutral didn't stop it. I turned the ignition off and started the car and it still revved high.

No codes came up.

I've read a few old posts here and through Google search without finding an answer.

I have not driven it for a couple of days now and have an appointment with my mechanic this Friday.

I can use any help here.

Thanks

I would like to share my experience with my 2009 RAV4:
(1). 2021-12-26 (50430 km): When braking at 13 km/h (dash cam data), the engine sped up to full throttle with loud noise. I shifted to neutral, stopped the car, turned off the engine, and re-started. Then the car ran normally. I took it to a Toyota dealer. They found no issues or engine computer messages and recommended no action. Upon my insistence, they ordered the parts for the throttle body assembly and the accelerator pedal sensor assembly. I drove little while waiting for the parts.
(2). 2022-01-01 (50504 km): After stopping the car, the engine sped up to full throttle with loud noise again. I had to shut off and re-start the engine twice before it ran normally.
I avoided driving the car until the parts came. Since the parts were replaced, I have driven for about 1,000 km now with no problems. My cost was about C$2,000.

 

I would like to share my experience with my 2009 RAV4:

Not relevant to a 2001 model auto.

 

Ghost story.....

 

Within a week, I've experienced sudden acceleration twice while breaking. The engine revved up to 5K rpm.

Putting in neutral didn't stop it. I turned the ignition off and started the car and it still revved high.

No codes came up.

I've read a few old posts here and through Google search without finding an answer.

I have not driven it for a couple of days now and have an appointment with my mechanic this Friday.

I can use any help here.

Thanks

 

What year & model? I have a 2019 Camry & that happened to me a few weeks ago causing a major accident. It was terrifying to say the least. Car is in the shop for repair $8500 damage.

 

I remember the Audi 5000 "unintended acceleration" problem back in the 1980s; I bought a 2005 Avalon in 2010, it was part of the the recall Toyota did when Avalons <& some Lexus models> also showed "unintended acceleration".

With the 1982-87 Audi 5000 there were no electronic throttles, etc., etc..... the brake & accelerator pedals were too close together. The drivers claimed they couldn't stop their cars, but you can test that assertion any day in any car.
HOW to test?: On the highway at 60-70mph, or on a back road at ?? 15mph, jam foot HARD on accelerator, and other foot HARD on brake pedal.
The car will stop, every single time.

On the Avalon & Lexus models that had "unintended acceleration", Toyota laid problem on throttle pedal getting jammed under carpet / floor mat. The fix -> trimming size of throttle pedal seemed to work, since news stories and complaints went away. Interestingly, after modification, the throttle & brake pedals were -effectively- farther apart.

BTW.... On cars with electronic throttle, you can safely put car in neutral & floor the accelerator. Car will not over-rev, computer will not allow it to happen, cuts off fuel to the injectors (iirc)
So if somehow you actually really have "unintended acceleration", and you can't shut car off, throw it in neutral and roll to a stop.
//

 

I remember the Audi 5000 "unintended acceleration" problem back in the 1980s; I bought a 2005 Avalon which was part of the the recall Toyota did when those & some Lexus models also showed "unintended acceleration". (Got that Avalon at a low price, no other buyers in 88 days)

With the 1982-87 Audi 5000 there were no electronic throttles, etc., etc..... the brake & accelerator pedals were too close together. The drivers claimed they couldn't stop their cars, but you can test that assertion any day in any car. HOW: On the highway at 60-70mph, or back road at 15mph, jam foot HARD on accelerator, and other foot HARD on brake pedal. The car will stop, every time.

On the Avalon & Lexus models that had "unintended acceleration", Toyota laid problem on throttle pedal getting jammed under carpet / floor mat. Fix of trimming the throttle pedal seemed to work, since news stories and complaints went away.

BTW.... On cars with electronic throttle, you can safely put car in neutral & floor the accelerator.
Car will not over-rev, computer will not allow it to happen, cuts off fuel to the injectors (iirc)
So if somehow you actually have "unintended acceleration", and you can't shut car off, throw it in neutral and roll to a stop.
//

We bought the car new & I really liked it. I had slowed down (barely moving)
to make a sharp right into a restaurant drive through. It was sudden & freakish. Foot on the brake, the car suddenly accelerated on its own ( like someone floored the gas pedal) jumped the curve - Taking out signs & drive through. It landed in rocks & mulch between the building & drive through. Missed a pole by the building by inches. It is in the shop for repair. My husband will take it to Toyota for testing after repairs, but I don’t know if I can ever drive it again. I could have been badly hurt or killed someone else.

 

"Foot on the brake, the car suddenly accelerated on its own"

This.

It has been shown in many studies that the human mind perceives what it expects, and folks who've pushed down on the accelerator, intending to be pushing on the brake, during the unexpected result will believe strongly that it was the brake. Modern cars have the ability to record those events (when the airbags go off the ECU takes a snapshot) and time and again the analysis of that stored data has shown it was misapplication of the pedal, and not a ghost in the machine.

What is interesting is that these cases of unintended acceleration occur with all brands, and models, showing that human misapplication of a pedal is not necessarily limited to just one maker, or model.

We humans are amazing at so many things, but this is one of those cognitive shortcomings we humans to tend to struggle with.

Back when the Audi 5000 issue came up there were no recording devices capable of answering the question, so doubt was very difficult to eliminate. Now, with modern cars and their ability to store data, it is much more clear.

 

The air bags did not deploy in my Camry.

 

If any human pushes button A and button B a few thousand times (especially with the same foot) they will eventually juxtapose them, and its only bad when you think you're on the brake. Its a very human brain wiring issue, but can be minimized with smart engineering.

The 80s Volvo wagon that rear ended me on a quiet city street was being floored at the time and the only skid marks were from my big Taurus wagon being lifted up and tossed 50 feet into someone front yard. I came to lying in the back seat (my front one had sheared off) and the confused Volvo guy kept pleading "I was on the brake" before running away...

 

If that was the tragedy in California you are referring to, it was the passenger in the rear seat who made the phone call to 911.
It is true that if one gradually applies the brakes (instead of applying them firmly, to stop the car) for long enough, to a speeding car, it is possible to make them overheat to the point they won't slow the car anymore, and after the point where the rotor becomes red hot the pads will burn off fairly quickly. However, it is unlikely one will do that in an emergency situation because firmly applying the brake pedal will overpower the engine output and stop the car.
Also, if one pumps the brakes, while the engine is at WOT so is not creating much intake vacuum, it is possible to exhaust the vacuum in the brake booster (on older, non-electrically boosted power brakes), after which point the effort would go up, but the brakes still will have the same ability to stop the car as originally, just will take more leg effort for the same result.

Through the whole event, it is always possible to put the transmission in neutral (problem solved) or shut the engine off (problem solved).

A person in a truly panic situation may forget they can do those things, or may freeze completely (becoming a passenger). If the wrong pedal was pressed, and the person went into full panic mode, they'd not only not think to confirm if they are pushing on the brake or the gas, they'd also probably not think to turn off the engine or shift into neutral to defuse the situation.

 

I was so torn up over the gas acceleration thing & letting them know about that, I forgot about the airbags not deploying. 😕