They are a 60-90K plug.

Check out the maintenance sticky at the top.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429745

 

50K miles

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_LaserIridium_vs_Iridium IX.pdf

Makes much more economical sense to go with the 100 K plug.

 

Hardtopte 72
Thanks for your post but I found on the NGK website that the iridium IX plug is good for 50k thanks

 

In practice that is true my estimate is more correct based on experience and That of others.

As an example Laser Iridiums are actually a 120K plug (confirmed by Toyota) and even then it will be hard to find one worn out vs. the 80-100K listed by NGK

 

Spark plug starter tool

Has anyone used a spark plug starter tool. You use it when putting new spark plugs in so you do not cross thread them. I wanted to know peoples feed back And to see if someone thought this tool would be helpful when I change my spark plugs
Thanks for the info

 

Never used one. Just don't use an impact gun and you should be fine.

Also don't use anti-seize on the plugs.

 

Uneccessary tool.
I just put the spark plug in the socket without the rachet and screw it in by hand, then when it's seated properly, put the torque wrench on and tighten to 13ft. lbs.
When using the long life plugs, such as Platinum or Iridium, always use anti-sieze. When the plug stays in for 60k miles or more, you'll be glad you have the anti-seize on there, or the plugs can become frozen in the hole.
Nothing puts a bigger damper on things than having plug break off in the hole.

 

I will disagree based on experience and this gem from NGK which made sense to me.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf

I have never experienced a long life Toyota plug stuck in a cylinder and I have pulled plugs out of over 10 year old vehicles with well over 120K. Toyota also doesn't use anti-seize or recommend it's use.

My vehicles have all done just fine with out it.

On a Ford Modular V8, you better believe it gets anti-seize.

 

I have ALWAYS used anti-sieze, never a problem.I use only lite coating. In fact, it makes insertion and removal easy.
My '95 Tacoma came with platinum plugs. When I did my 1st tune up, the plugs were so hard to remove, I was afraid I might break one off in the hole. I turned them very slowly to get them out and it took forever.
I'm a firm believer in anti-sieze.
I use it on both my Tacoma , MR2 and every other vehicle I've ever owned since I started doing my own work.
And I use my micro torque wrench.

 

Interesting. Was it a 3VZ or 22R?

I just did plugs in both my cars and they came out fine. Same with all others I have done including some very high mileage cars with OEM plugs and years under the belt.

To each their own.

 

The 3rz 2.7ltr.
They were in so tight, that as it unscrewed it was squeaking. I very scary sound.
13 ft.lbs isn't alot of torque. Some recommend 15ft. lbs, but 13 is fine.
Platinum plugs are suppose to last 60k miles, for some people, that can be 5 yrs. A long time for a plug to be in the engine.
Anyway, there have been numerous debates on this. l
Like you said, to each his own.
But since I've been using anti seize for many years without a problem, I will continue to do so.

 

I remember buying a tool off MAC for the old 3.0 trucks. It was just a rubber boot 5" long that fit over the plug so you could reach your hand in tight spots and start threading by hand. Some guys just saved old spark plug wire boots and inserted an old cut off screw driver as a starting tool. My MAC tool still serves me to this day.

 

If you use anti-seize, reduce torque, I have heard 20-30% depending on thread materials. It prevents overtightening and breaking the ceramic insulator, but it is guesswork whereas putting them in dry requires no guessing.

 

Bull6791, Sorry, they don't offer a picture, but the price sounds about right.
http://www.mactools.com/ShopOnline/Product/tabid/120/productid/320138/variantid/310897/Default.aspx

 

Is there any DIY thread on how to replace the plugs? In addition to which I have the following follow-up questions:

1. Which model of plugs are recommended ? Apologies in advance if covered in numerous other threads.
2. I remember reading if replacing the plugs might as well replace the wiring too? If true, make/brand suggested?
3. In terms of checking the GAP, etc. what are the suggestions?

 

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...neration-2002-2006-2007-2011/339618-diy-guide-replacing-spark-plugs-2az-fe.html

Above is for 2AZFE but is 99% identical to a Corolla. The only difference is the engine cover also has 2 clips at the back.

1. NGK or Denso Iridium. Read below for part numbers.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...29745-read-me-official-9th-gen-maintenance-thread-all-you-ever-wanted-know.html

2. No. Coils are lifetime unless they fail.

3. You should not gap the plugs. They are pregapped and I havent had an issue with them.

 

I too always use anti-seize. Of course I only use a little tiny bit. I'm cheap so I keep the little tiny packets that come with oxygen sensors and that little packet will get me through about four or five oxygen sensors and about 10 spark plugs. A little bit goes a long way with anti-seize!

As far as gapping plugs goes... yes platinum (and iridium) plugs are supposed to be pre-gapped. I always just eyeball them to make sure all four look about the same (to make sure one hadn't been dropped or something) and then just put them in if they look good.

It's not even advisable to check the gap on these. Why? Because there is a little tiny "fleck" of platinum or iridium attached to the tip of the plug and the gapping tool can possibly knock this fleck loose allowing it to fall off after installation and cause engine damage. I don't think there's much danger of this anymore but back when platinum plugs first came out.. it was a big deal.

If you must gap a platinum or iridium plug do not slide the tool, instead make sure the next more narrow size fits easily and if not bend it outwards with a small pair of needle nose. Don't use the tool to open the plug up further. EXAMPLE: If 0.035" is spec then make sure the 0.030" fits loosely in there. Try not to exert any pressure on the platinum/iridium tip.

To be fair though gap isn't as critical as it once was. Spark voltage has increased so much and since it's direct ignition there is no "loss" of voltage due to wire resistance anymore. I've had cars in that ran "perfectly" fine with plugs worn so bad that the gap was well over 0.120"! Might not be the most healthy thing for the coils but as long as your plugs are within 0.020 or so to spec it shouldn't be any issue whatsoever.

I should also note that a small piece of 3/8" hose usually works great as a spark plug starter!

 

Battery replacement

I know how to replace my battery. My question that nobody will answer is when replacing your battery how to you hook a jump starter up to the car. The jump starter is so you do not lose memory and also have to reprogram radio stations.
Any info on this subject would be great. Thanks

 

Just hook it up to the cables on the battery. neg to neg, pos to pos. When you disconnect the battery from the cables of the car, make sure the cables from the jumpstarter stay connected to the battery cables in the car. If the cables fall off then you lose power to radio.

 

Or try one of these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Computer-Me.../300984313202?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4614102572&vxp=mtr

 

Depending on how good your wire condition is, a 9volt battery with alligator clips to a clean ground near the firewall and the positive input on the fusebox might be enough.
I've tried it a few times, some it worked, some others it didn't.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

I just saw something either in Walmart or Autozone similiar to what Funman posted on ebay, maybe try it. I've always just reset everything given the few times I have to replace my battery.

 

Got one at wallyworld which plugs into the aux power (cig lighter) with a 9v battery. Worked fine.

 

Getting stuck battery terminal off post

I just changed my battery and had a hard time getting negative terminal off post. I want to know for next time how do I get the terminal off with out breaking it. Is there a tool to get stuck terminal off or does somebody have another way. Any ideas or thoughts would be great.
Thanks.

 

I usually just grab the connector with some pliers and twist it a little from side to side and/or use a screw diver to pry up from underneath. That usually does it, and of course, loosen the screw/bolt.

Did you actually break the terminal?

 

I would say to spin it back and forth or pour some coke on it to help loosen it a little

Aj

 

Buy some dielectric grease and felt battery washers and install soon so you don't have this problem next time. Also brush the posts and terminals with a wire brush. Should last you 5 years if you keep down the corrosion.

 

Buy some dielectric grease and felt battery washers and install soon so you don't have this problem next time. Also brush the posts and terminals with a wire brush. Should last you 5 years if you keep down the corrosion.

I don't waste my time with felt pads but I do use tons of dielectric grease. Best stuff ever for all electrical connections...