Firstly holy crap are you alright? A car is not worth a trip to the ER!

Now do you have a CEL when you turn the key to ON but not start the engine? I'm thinking you pulled out a connector or fuse somewhere, or hopefully not but maybe part of the harness got damaged.

I've removed the evap unit before it is a bit of a chore you will need to remove basically everything on the passengers side.

 

Well I beg to differ about no car being worth a trip to the ER, were you able to pull the unit loose at all? There is a harness that runs along the top of the heating/cooling assemblies and if a wire was cut/pinched it could keep it from running, the same goes for the connectors that run behind the glove box. You didn't pull on any of them too hard did you, say maybe accidentally on the wires to the ECU or circuit opening relay?

 

I get the CEL (Check Engine Light) when key is in ON position. Engine cranks, no start. Are one of those screws a ground? As the attach points all seem to be plastic.


Am I supposed to remove the metal frame that the glove box and speaker attaches too?


I don't think I pulled hard on any wires. I'm going to have to figure out where the ECU and 'circuit opening relay" is. I was trying not to disturb the 25 year old wire harnesses but it was unavoidable.

 

I have not done a U.S spec car so not sure exactly what you have to remove, but it is probably best to remove as much stuff in the way as you can. For the no start condition, check for spark and report back. BTW IIRC there is a 10mm nut at the very top of the evap unit did you get that one?

As for a car being worth a trip to the ER :lol: well, I once got an iron filing in my eye that stuck to the cornea because it was read hot at the time, getting your eyeball scraped really hurts.

None of the screw are ground, a ground point is always a nut/bolt I think.

 

A harness connection that goes to the injectors from ECU is in close proximity to the cooling unit harness
It is a shot in the dark but looks like one of the connectiors got detached (but not completely pulled). I removed cooling unit once and had to remove the panel around glovebox door to access 2 upper fasteners.
You need to check:
trouble codes stored in ECU
spark or pulses at tachometer hook up connector at distributor,
Pulses at injectors (by unplugging unjecor and connecting analog volt meter set at 20 VDC in place of injector) --with engine cranking the needle should jump once per engine revolution
(if polarity is reversed, simply switch the leads

 

I just pulled my evaporator a couple days ago to remove a TON of leaves and junk and as part of switching my leaking system over to R134a.

I sympathize with your pain. My hands are pretty scraped up too, but no tetanus ... I think!

Yes, you really should remove the entire panel (glove box, speaker, etc.) to get at the evaporator. Not the top dash pad though.

I did not change the expansion valve -- just removed, cleaned with mineral spirits to make sure it wasn't clogged, and reinstalled with fresh o-rings.

Evap is now back in (but not tested) -- let me know if you need any specific advice on pulling/reinstalling.

The ECT computer is right above the evaporator. Would that connector being partially removed cause a no start?

 

Changed expansion valve, reinstalled "cooling unit" under dash.

Engine cranks over. Still no start. Trying to get trouble codes.


Connected Tem and E1. There is no TE1. No codes if I did it right.

 

If you connected like shown below you did it right

No codes means that the CEL just blinking with about 5 seconds interval between blinks.

 

Dr. J means "0.5" second intervals between blinks. :thumbsup:

-Charlie

 

Dr J:

That's how I jumper'd the connections with the paper clip. Only the center one is "T" not "TE1". I get no blinking lights at all. There is a fair amount of grease in the connection block though. Maybe I need to wiggle the paper clip around more.

Still cranks. No start.

 

Update: Seems CEL doesn't work. Looking at changing bulb.

Friend came over checked power to ECU but no power coming out. No spark. Injector wires have power (approx 10.9v) but not pulsing.

Did find a small wire abrasion white with blue tracer) in underdash harness. A smaller wire. Cut looks fresh possibly from touching metal glove box frame where I cut my hand before realizing that needed to be removed. Wondering now if ECU was fried. Looking for a used one to test.

We're mostly using a factory Toyota wiring manual for 1987 Camry I bought from dealer years ago.

 

check your fuses in the main engine box. if the IGN fuse it out i think the light wont light.

 

Fuses I thought were good-- NOT. EFI/ECU fuse in main engine box was blown. Didn't catch it. But root cause was white wire with blue tracer. It powers the ECU (Batt connection). Under dash I had nicked the wire against lower dash sheet metal. Retaped wire. All is good. Still need to connect cooling unit and put dash back together!