Wow. If they are driving on stock wheels and stock lug nuts, it's a bit hard to mess this up unless they forgot to torque the lugs down or just 'threaded' it in a few turns.. Even then, I drove around the block with *forgetting* to tighten the wheel nut lugs down. The Car felt weird...but at least the wheel still had the inner bore keeping it in check but it was just finger tight. Now if the lug nuts were REALLY loose, you'll snap the studs if the weight of the car goes on that...

How long 'after' the job they had the wheel fly off? I would think the CV axle should still in theory be good unless something else occurred. If anything, I'd be concern about the brake rotor and brake dust shield.

I would source out these parts locally in my area...compare prices. Amazon shipping takes a week or two and RA charges an arm and a leg for me.

Hope no other damages occurred though! Lesson learned for them. Hope they can figure out what they messed up on.

 

If the remaining studs are cross-threaded, that'd make me think they cross-threaded all of them and the nuts were loose, which is why the wheel came off.

Definitely worth just putting in new studs over doing a whole wheel hub.



Usually the "Daily Driver" stuff from RockAuto are decent brands that will last and the "Economy" stuff is the cheap-o parts that will get you by for awhile.

The Toyota OEM stuff is where it's at so the best price/performance might be had by getting a used hub from a salvage yard if you have one around.

Other than that, you might call around to parts stores as suggested and see what the local prices are, you can usually get something for a little more than RockAuto with a warranty if/when it fails.


Really, it might be best to just wash your hands of this and have your brother and his friends pay out of THEIR pocket for a shop to do the work and of course all the parts. Park your Camry somewhere they won't be able to get it when you take your trip and let them deal with getting it fixed or not having a ride.

Just because you work on your own vehicles doesn't obligate you to drop everything and fix other's screwups, nor are they entitled to hold your vehicle as a hostage if you don't fix theirs. Things won't change if you're always giving in when stuff happens.

 

Really, it might be best to just wash your hands of this and have your brother and his friends pay out of THEIR pocket for a shop to do the work and of course all the parts. Park your Camry somewhere they won't be able to get it when you take your trip and let them deal with getting it fixed or not having a ride.

Just because you work on your own vehicles doesn't obligate you to drop everything and fix other's screwups, nor are they entitled to hold your vehicle as a hostage if you don't fix theirs. Things won't change if you're always giving in when stuff happens.

I agree but it could be family or really good friends - doing it out of good will. Thankfully my friends will understand if I can't loan it out for good reasons.

But yea, would you be OK if they drive your car until you fix theirs?

 

It is almost impossible for the hub to come off the axle nut holds it in place. You mean the wheel came off and broke some studs in the process? If so the studs are easy to replace, is the hub damaged? You can't remove the hub without destroying the bearing. All the aftermarket hubs I've seen were complete junk if you do for some reason need to replace it hit a salvage yard.

 

You mean the wheel came off and broke some studs in the process?

Yes

Definitely worth just putting in new studs over doing a whole wheel hub.

If so the studs are easy to replace, is the hub damaged

That would be cheaper but I cant figure out if the hub is damaged. The wheel is done, the holes are oval in shape and the lug threads are sheared off. I am afraid the bearing might have taken a beating and I don't know how to check if it's still reusable. :crying:

Do I use a tool like this to remove the studs: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...m/loan-a-tools/tie-rod-end-puller/oem-tie-rod-end-remover-screw-type/409628_0_0

I'm heading to the store in an hour so if you guys have a link to an autozone or OR tool, please post here and I will check it out

I gotta ask, do they have wheel spacers or something on them? Met this kid with an SC300 that had been "pimped out" in the usual ways, including aftermarket wheels requiring spacers to clear the fenders, and his wheel fell off on the highway. I'm pretty sure the studs sheared because of the extra stress from the wheel spacers.

Possibly. Right now, not on talking terms. He's supposed to be the elder brother and he always does all this crap.

All these Camrys are not mine, dad's property but I am in charge of maintaining all of them because that's the deal I struck when I made the whole family buy Gen 4 Camrys. otherwise we would have been a mess of hondas, fords, nissans :surprise:

But yea, would you be OK if they drive your car until you fix theirs?

Nope. I have the premium parts in my car. Those idiots yank the steering like it's a truck. Going to undo all my tie rod, wheel, suspension, sway bar work. No way they get into my car if I can help it.

Hope no other damages occurred though! Lesson learned for them. Hope they can figure out what they messed up on.

I don't care. After I fix this, there will be an agreement that unless they have my permission, they are not allowed to work on these Camrys.

I wanted to charge them for the whole hub and CV to make it hurt, but probably only the studs are bad, so they got off easy. Plus I might not have more time than doing just the studs

So these studs are press fit?

AZ has these whole selection of studs and I dont know which one to get and why

https://www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/wheel-bolt-and-stud/dorman-wheel-nut/70500_0_0
$4
Part Number: 610-445.1
M12 - 1.50
Wheel Stud Style: Serrated w/o Cliphead

https://www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/wheel-bolt-and-stud/dorman-wheel-nut/70507_0_0
$2
Wheel Stud Style: Serrated w/ Cliphead

https://www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/wheel-bolt-and-stud/dorman-wheel-nut/70497_0_0
$3
Wheel Stud Style: Serrated w/o Cliphead

:surprise:

 

I gotta ask, do they have wheel spacers or something on them? Met this kid with an SC300 that had been "pimped out" in the usual ways, including aftermarket wheels requiring spacers to clear the fenders, and his wheel fell off on the highway. I'm pretty sure the studs sheared because of the extra stress from the wheel spacers.

 

I used Timken hubs in the rear with good results. Got them from AutoZone for $112 each in 2013.


Toyota wheel studs are $4 each. The link might not be for your car, just put your car info in and search for it.
As someone else said you probably need a new brake disk.
You may be able to bent/hammer the shield back into shape. Give it some black paint for rust protection.

 

This one looks more like a Toyota stud: https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/wheel-stud/dorman-wheel-stud/2920_0_0
Anyway this is what would my Camry 97 use.

 

They did not tighten the lug nuts, that's all. The holes are elongated on the wheel because they were banging on the studs, and that's also why the studs look like they're cross threaded - they're not, just banged up. That's what happens in these kinds of situations. The car would have been making a lot of increasingly loud noise leading up to the wheel falling off, we're talking several miles here. Hard to imagine how the driver would not have heard that and realized something is f-ed up.


And no, you may not ask me how I know, so don't even go there, ok?

Replace just the 5 studs. They're press fit - whack with a hammer to kick them back, use a couple of spacers and the lug nut to pull new ones back in. 5 studs and 5 new lug nuts should be under $30 total at your favorite local parts store. About half that on Rockauto. If memory serves me right, after you take off the rotor and brake caliper, there's enough room to get the bolts out in the space where the caliper usually lives.

No need to replace the bearing, I bet there's nothing wrong with it, same with the spindle. If you try to replace the spindle you'll be buying a new bearing.

 

You can either get the studs from the dealer or parts stores have Dorman ones for about $2 each. If the studs are sheared and the hub holes are not damaged, then try replacing them. That would be the easiest and cheapest. See DIY:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ra-1999-2003/360315-diy-replace-your-wheel-studs-parking-lot-limited-tools.html

For the rear hub assembly, they really come as a unit, but ajkalian's changed only the bearing IIRC.

 

I just replaced studs on my 99,

Dorman 610.266.1 front (single)
nut M12-1.5 Dorman 611-133.1 (single)

Using a pneumatic hammer to push out the stud without pulling /pressing hub is easiest, and can hammer it back on same way using loctite as lube, see here

luckily you have an opening for stud and don't have to bend/cut dust shield, and maaaaaybe not grind down head...