I have 3MCrystaline. I've used them on my other cars and like the look and enjoy the hear rejection benefits. What kind of price are you getting?

 

$125 per door and windshield is $150 using 3M and Xpectra
$150 per door and windshield is $175 using Huper Optik

sounds high.

Another shop is offering LLummar ceramic for $200 all 3. He admits the Huper are better at reflecting heat

 

I've never seen anyone tinting their windshield. What % are you planning? Is it purely for UV protection? I don't even think it's legal in California.

 

I have on the 2 past cars, since they offered UV protection.
Yes, for UV, it helps everything else with interior. They have the 80% which you cant tell its tinted, so unless the officer knows by accident and decides to be a serious jerk, your not gonna get a ticket. You can hang colorful puffy dice the size of small milk cartons, but a clear film is illegal? Do the examples of law that make sense outweigh the ones that don't(if you take common sense ones out)?

 

I used to tint my whole windshield. I would go very light to reduce glare. However since the wife and I share the HL, I can't do that. In CA is a big time fine. I got my driver and passenger done for $75.

 

I have SunTek CXP 35 on all my windows except the windshield. I didn't choose it for any other reason than it is what the installer used. They've been in business for 30+ yrs and had numerous excellent reviews, so I went with them.

 

You put them on all meaning the front 2 or on all meaning over the factory tints too?

 

Which of these don't interfere with radio or GPS signals?

 

The CXP for sure has no metal.
Couple of the ceramic variety claimed to have non, but not sure. I would think the ceramics all are non metalic. The Huper maybe, they claim "electrically conductive transition metal oxynitride".

 

ALL, not just front 2

 

How does that work? So the ones that are factory will be darker than the front per law. Is there a color difference? Yes the CXP looks like its good. The ceramic film is said to really be effective on heat rejection and here in Cali, I'm gonna make the best effort, so I maybe doing the ceramic...except now you got me thinking if I should do the rears. What was your thinking on this? Simply to go darker or?

 

Can you see the Blind Spot Monitor adequately through a tinted window? Love the look...company I used to work for packaged and sold window tint material .... but I never liked looking out a tinted window from the inside because of the wavy distortions it exhibits due to the adhesive layer and the film itself. But...it DOES add to the looks from the outside...

 

Can you see the Blind Spot Monitor adequately through a tinted window? Love the look...company I used to work for packaged and sold window tint material .... but I never liked looking out a tinted window from the inside because of the wavy distortions it exhibits due to the adhesive layer and the film itself. But...it DOES add to the looks from the outside...

That is either due to dye film used (up until the mid 90's and still used by some) or bad install. New nano films don't have that issue, and a good installer wont let that happen.

 

You may also experience 'vertical hazed/scuff marks' over time..... as the film is rubbing against the rubber door seals every time you raise and lower the window...... you don't get this with raw glass..... but plastics can scratch.

Phil - can you provide manufacturer links which advertise these films as having 'no optical distortions' and being 'scratch proof?' Thanks.

 

You have a point, but may not be too concerning...

I don't know if the MFG's do such adverts, but I think 3M does for clarity. I can tell you this, I had my VW installed with a supposedly non-fading (that was my fear back then/14years ago) no purple-ing film. My tint installer is still in business but he doesn't use any of the newer films. He says they come and go, so he sticks to what he knows(which sucks)....Anyway, the film goes on the inside of the window, and unless you do offroading often with the windows down in sandy situations, I doubt you will have any issues.....My VW HAS faded to an ugly purple(not as bad as the old stuff, but a slight tint of color), but there are no scratches on the film...Disclaimer!!!! I don't take the Passat off-roading either :thumbsup:

 

window tint

The prices are all over the place!

I went with Lumar atc-15 on the two front windows.
Matches well with other windows!
I do see a reflection from my driver and passenger vents, because they have the silver trim, in the tint when I look at the mirrors thru the tint.. It is something I can live with.
Anyone else have this?
Cost was 125.00 plus tax for both. I thought this was high!
Went with limar from a local shop which does not recommend using the other types ie metalized etc. Lumar has metalized also. Shop said they had problems in the past.
Chose lumar because they do have a lifetime warranty.
Others may also!
I am keeping this vehicle for 8-10 years so I figured it was worth trying it.
:hi:

 

I've decided to go with LLumar CTX all around except for front windshield. Cost is $375. Don't know if it's expensive or not here in SoCal. 30% front and 40% back. From the demo this should help big time with rejecting heat on my Black/Black.

 

Sounds a bit up there, but who is doing it?

 

I finally got some spec for the films I'm considering...

LLUMAR
http://llumar.blob.core.windows.net/drupal/llumarspecsauto2014-02-05.pdf
Along with a blog I found stating these numbers...

Here is the specifications for CS-50 I looked at the specs for ATC 50 and the TSER is 26%. ATR TSER is 35% and if you have some ATR put a metal detector on it I think you will find it has metal in it.
We don’t make a 85% in CS or anything but CR.
We also have the CR-90 if he wants it all to be legal.

51% Visible light transmitted
37% Total solar energy rejected
30% Infrared rejected
99% UV light rejected
8% Visible light reflected
42% Glare reduction
18% Solar heat reduction

______________________________________

ASWF:

http://aswf.com/html/products/products_auto_excelirp.html
​

____________________

3M

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...666UgxGCuNyXTtnxf6oXT6EVtQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--&fn=Auto WF Performance Data.pdf
_________________________

HUPER OPTIK


http://huperoptikusa.com/downloads/

So the most light let through films with least heat...

3M Crystalline letting 69% light in is... 50% TSER / 22% Glare reduction
ASWF is with 68% (70) light is ........... 41% TSER / ?
Llumar 59% light...............................26% TSER / 35%
LLumar 55%light...............................35% TSER / 39%
LlumarAIR 80 (Clear) 78%...................43% TSER / 13%
HuperOptik 71%............................... 48% / TSER

I couldn't find LLumar films that lets more light in...Could mean that the front windows using Llumar are not recommended?. Though it excells in glare reduction at 34%

Then you have this film...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Window-Tint.../181424558455?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a3dbf1177&vxp=mtr
NoName10feet x 2feet $17film..70% VLT.......41% TSER
This could be bad film with bad visibility, and other factors...But, I wouldn't knock it until it was tested.


Also a good source...
http://www.tintindustry.com/Window-Tint-Brands/LLumar.html

 

The heat resistance is very noticeable

 

Looks to be a clean install. :thumbsup:

 

Toyota says that all windows on the 2014 have UV reduction now instead of just the windshield. Anyone have any idea how much? I am thinking of getting the pano roof tinted to protect the little ones in back.

 

I believe it is 98+ blockage of UV, which will prevent them from getting sunburns and will reduce interior material fading and plastic deterioration.

It won't, however, protect them from getting hot, which is from IR (infrared). To block IR without using green tint, you end up with neutral (dark gray/black) film, which reduces IR and alas, a lot of visible light. Some films use metallic reflective coatings with reflect IR and let through more visible light.

If you want a car that's less hot, look for for film with high IR rejection (low IR transmission).

One note: non-metallic darkening films can make the window VERY hot, as the film absorbs IR energy--like a black shirt-- giving it up the window.

 

Not sure what Toyota puts in the front windshield, but here in Houston I can sure feel the heat coming through the front windshield. Given the very large surface area further protection would be greatly appreciated. While tinting is against law here, clear UV film is not


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Not sure what Toyota puts in the front windshield, but here in Houston I can sure feel the heat coming through the front windshield. Given the very large surface area further protection would be greatly appreciated. While tinting is against law here, clear UV film is not


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Are you going to get the clear film put on the front windshield? Supposedly from one of the sites I visited it does help with decreasing heat transfer.

I haven't done any tinting yet, but plan to once I figure this all out since I really don't want practically any darkness on any of the glass since have old eyes and once had a bad experience while backing up(young, short children walking behind there). They were OK since I always back up very slowly, always look back so stopped the instant I saw the tall parent. So am paranoid about tinting, but then do want decrease in heat transfer and not waste my money if a light tint doesn't do much. This is almost as confusing as the opti-guard paint coating I am considering. That's another long story.

 

I have my front windshield tined here in CA with no issues so far.
Granted it's a VERY light tint.
And it does make a large difference in heat.

 

I have the 3m on a 2011 Prius all windows except windshield and it still looks like the day it was applied . Had it put on my XLE AWD front door windows and upper windshield when i got it in march, also had on my 2010 honda , never had a problem with any vehicle 3m was applied to.

 

Going with Suntek CarbonXP for the front two windows - About $100 installed.

 

My buddy who owns a detail shop just did my front windows this Saturday. Not sure what brand or tech used, but they look great and perfect really, and charged me $85 total for the 2 windows. I kept it legal, so they're lighter than the rears and the back window, but from certain angles they look about even, so can't complain (I'd complain a lot more if my wife calls me one day and says she got pulled over cuz the cop saw dark front illegal tint!!!)

 

I have had it done to 3 cars before this, and it makes a noticable difference after I had the film on. I did 80% vis on the front. It is illegal here in Los ANgeles(from what I have heard), but never had a issue in over 15 years. It should be legal! It also helps keep you in the car in case you don't have a belt on...you may break the windshield with the thrust of your skull, but it will keep you dead inside the car. Not sure if windshields are designed to break away at the impact of an average skull impact to help keep you alive (Hopeing you fly most of the way out rather than slump back in and shred your guts...Not sure on this? If so, I would have the installer Xacto a cross mark facing the front driver and passenger.

Enjoy your drive!

 

Did anyone tint over the privacy glass?

 

Phil I would very much consider tinting the windshield...if it weren't a lease.

 

If it was more than a 2year lease, I'd throw a buck or 2 ...Specially in LA.