Alternator fuse is fried. Check replace. Its all good.

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I couldn't find this alternator fuse. Where is it located at? I have a 4.5 gen Camry. I checked the fuse box under the hood and the coin tray. Wasn't exactly sure which one it was. The one under the hood had one that said "ALT" something. I checked it and it was a 5 watt but it was not fried.

 

Try looking for one that says batt. For battery if not look at the starter fuse. Or ignition fuse those are usually in the dash panel. I'm not really familiar with the 4.5 as I own the 3 but Imagine they are almost identical in fuse location. So look for some in the dash panel. Make sure the alt one is fried though. You have to look at it really close sing its really thin at the bridge thing.

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hm.... sounds like the fuse other post mention...

or... you have fired you ecu...

 

I just tried jump starting the car right now. No luck, it makes the clicky dead battery sound for a second or two then it fades and the lights in the odometer fades and it's completely dead. What seems to be the problem?

 

How do you hook clamps up backwards? The black goes to negative...and red goes to the red terminal.....also known as positive, denoted by a plus.

Throw away your cables and every other tool you own. Next time you want to pump gas, get someone else to do it for you. Oil changes are far out of your grasp, but hopefully one day we can work on those.

 

Wow that was really messed up. lol.

And black doesn't simply go to negative. Black goes to the block on the car being jump started, and negative on the battery providing the jump.

 

It can be clamped to the block or to the negative terminal on the battery. The worry is causing sparks near the charging battery, as charging a lead-acid battery releases hydrogen gas...

Check all of your fuses. Replace the ALT fuse and the STA (starter) fuses for good measure. This is acting like a popped fuse. That feeble attempt at cranking could be because you're pulling just enough juice to arc the incredibly small gap in whichever fuse is blown.

 

Now, now... Let's settle down. We all get hotheaded.

Do you have a fuse tester? That'll actually make testing things far easier. Most generic fuse kits ship with a basic one.

I still advise replacing the ALT and STA circuit fuses.

Can you try starting it with another battery? Despite their resistance to deep cycling and temperature damage, lead acid cells are quite sensitive. It's possible you accidentally cooked it. I know I've done stupid things when fatigued. After reinstalling the trans on my Gen 2 (I replaced the clutch and most of the front end suspension) I forgot to torque the nuts on the middle engine mount. I lost the nuts somewhere down the road and had to replace them.

Take the battery to an AutoZone to have them test it- they will do so for free. They'll even put it on a deep cycle charger in an attempt to put life back into it.

Good luck!

Edit: I wouldn't buy a Camry in anything but red. Both of mine are late-'80s Toyota Maroon.

 

Look in the fuses block under the hood, You may have popped one of the main fuses. Look for fuses rated at square large fuses (bigger than the rectangle ones labeled 5 10 etc) will probably be 40 amp or larger. A friend of mine did the same thing to his Honda and it blew an 80 amp main fuse.

 

I replaced my ALT fuse which was 100 amp. That was the fuse that was fried. The car still does not start and my battery is working fine. Everything in my car seem to be working good except it won't start. My starter fuse seems to be fine as well and all the other ECU fuses. I can't seem to find a battery fuse that everyone was talking about.

 

Where is the popcorn smiley when you need it :lol: This thing just gets more and more entertaining with every post

 

It's floating around in the random thread/Jalopnik/VADriven sites...

 

So, did you get your problem fixed? I remember helping my dad one time around 40+ years ago and he accidentally crossed the cables on an old Ford w/a generator. He burned his hand but was okay. We all make mistakes, don't sweat it. People will help you here, just be patient.

I would bet you might have fried a fusible link or the 40amp fuse under the hood in the fuse block. Let us know what year Camry you have.

 

What do you mean it won't start, will it turn over at all now?

 

It makes some sort of clicky noise now. When it was connected to another car trying to get jumped it made the noise as if the engine was trying to start but wouldn't. I don't know how to explain it correctly..

[Edit] I'm going to post up a video right now since I can't put it into words.

 

Here's the link to the video:

Tell me what you think

 

sound like your starter went bad on you... are you sure your battery is good? if you measure volts across the battery terminals, it doesn't tell you a lot... because you're not under load.

can you take your battery off and head off to auto zone and they'll test unload for you to see if your current amps under load good or bad battery? if the battery not bad, your starter perhaps went bad. you can get (tool not too heavy because you don't want to damage the starter when hit on the starter) something hit on starter CAUTION DO THIS WHEN THE ENGINE OFF. THEN YOU TRY TO START THE CAR AGAIN.

REPORT BACK WHAT YOU FIND... WE ARE HERE TO HELP....SOUND LIKE YOU HAVE A WEAK AMPS ON THE BATTERY BUT IF YOU CAN REMOVE TO TEST BATTERY AT AUTOZONE FREE. TO NARROW THE ISSUES.

ALSO, AUTOZONE TEST STARTER FREE, TOO. IF YOUR STARTER BAB, DON'T BUY NEW STARTER... REPORT BACK AND I CAN PROVIDE YOU THE OEM PART BECAUSE ALL YOU HAVE JUST BUY STARTER KIT..AND REPLACE THE BRUSHING ON THE STARTER... THEN, YOU HAVE A NEW REBUILD STARTER.... COST REBUILD STARTER JUST $30.00.

POST BACK WHAT YOU FIND..

 

I am very confident you have a bad starter... Just follow my advice and report back what you found...

Thanks

 

I just tried hitting the starter with a tool, no luck. I'll try to get the battery tested out tomorrow since I have no ride atm.

 

another try, if you can't start the car in P(parking) then try move back and forward from P to N to R with 3 times...and try to start again in P...if not start, try to start in N(neutral) if you can start the car.. do this after you have the battery check out if good...

 

Battery seems to be good they said. It was only bought in July of 2011. They're currently having it charge right now at the shop so I'll have to go there later pick it up and put it back in the car. Tell you the results afterwards. Thanks for all the help!

 

It's possible you blew the starter solenoid as well, depending on how long it was hooked up improperly...

 

good point, but is the electronics inside the starter demage or not? i hope that is not the case but you have a good point....

Do you have access to junk yard pull-a-part? bring your own tools and pull out a starter and that way save $....

hope the battery re-charge and the car is back in business.. if not, i think you have a starter issue....best bet, go junkyard and pull one out and pay less $...

or you can remove your old starter and have it test at autozone....
if I were you, I pull out the starter and have it test at Auto Zone... if bad, either go junkyard pull-a-part pull out a starter....or rebuild your old one...

you save $ either way, but if I pull a starter from junkyard, I still replace both brushing while you have the starter out. save future starter problem arise.

 

Before you crank the engine, do you have a check engine light on? If not, your ECU is probably fried, or not getting power.

 

Nope check engine light wasn't on.

 

I'd check ALL fuses and fuse blocks (the square ones) with a tester/meter now before trying anything else. I wouldn't be surprised if a bunch of them is popped. hopefully the wiring is not melted.

 

OK, your battery sound strong and your starter is also good. I can say battery and starter are ok.

I would check all the fuse box... if I remember correctly, they're two fuse boxes under the hood and one under corn holder. you have to remove the corn holder to see the fuses....

can you check your EFI (Engine Fuel Injector) fuse under the hood? when you crank, does your engine turn at all? the EFI fuse should be the one near to the headlight(right if stand in front engine)... worry, you get no fuel because the fuse EFI blow.


update back what you find...

 

I will check this out when I get back from work! Hopefully this is the problem and not the ECU. I want to get my baby back up and running.

 

:thumbsup: glad it was just that and you are back on road

 

glad we can help you out! happy to see your car now back up running and hopefully for many miles more to come...

 

The alternator fuse that was mentioned is the "alt 100a" fuse. Check that fuse to see if there is a gap in the copper. it should say it on the top of the roof of the fuse box. and then also on top of the plastic see through cap of the fuse itself.

 

That was unnecessary as I only came here to find possible answers in order to fix my car and get it running again. You are acting as if I had no idea or any common sense on what I was doing. I've jumped start cars before and this was my only time where I got them crossed. My battery does not have the indicators that are red and shows the + and - signs because it broke off so I made an accidental mistake due to being fatigue from working on my car all day. So no need to flame on this thread if you're not going to be of any help. I'm sure my car looks a shitload better than your shitty red Camry that is stock with the only aesthetic pleasing to your eye is your riced out spray painted valve cover that "adds 5hp" but you see here. At least I was not stupid enough to blow my engine. So good day to you sir.

Well well u just might be human afterall