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07 Camry Rear strut / Spring replacment, Do I need to get the car re aligned ? Any tips?

1.4K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  Joey G  
#1 ·
Hi, I replaced the fronts a few months ago and had the car alighned, I now want to do the rear and I am wondering if i'll have to get it aligned again or should it be okay? I would prefer not to but will if it needs it. Any tips on replacing the rears? Thanks
 
#3 ·
I believe camber would be the only thing affected by changing the Rear struts but I don't think that is adjustable on our cars with out an add on bolt kit.


Anyone have the part number for the bolts that hold the ABS and the Brake line on. I want to replace all the bolts but I am not seeing them on the Parts list.
 
#4 ·
With new rear struts the rear ride height will shift slightly and this in itself will cause some minor changes in alignment. BUT it will be a minor change and you may not notice it at all. Some who are super picky will notice the height and resulting alignment shifting in the months after putting on new struts. But that is "princess and the pea" stuff.

I think the ABS and brake line bracket bolts are M6 and M7 but don't hold me to that. Those are not structural or anything so I would replaced them unless I lost them!

You will likely up destroying the sway bar links unless the magic of the hex key inside the bolt works for you. It NEVER works for me. I end up grinding/drilling the old linkage off and putting brand new sway bar links on.
 
#5 ·
Thank you, I figured Id just replace the end links while I am at it, I am not sure if the ABS/Brake bolts will come out easily or if I'll need to cut them. I am assuming bottom struts bolts Ill replace and the top nuts in the car should be fine. Any torque specs to follow?
 
#6 ·
If you've already done the front struts then you know how hard it can be to get those bottom bolts out of the knuckle. IME the back of the car often has more rust than the front. Definitely impact wrench time.

I think the torque spec is circa 200 ft-pounds for tightening the bottom bolts. It's actually in the book.

Don't see why you'd need new bolts unless you have destroyed the old ones getting them out.

I put anti-seize all over the inside of the knuckle bottom bolt holes in case some future owner (maybe me) ever has to change struts again.

Again for the future guy who might have to change struts again, the MOOG ones that don't have the hex key hole but have flats for a wrench are a real win.
 
#8 ·
Well you did the front ones already with the tools you have. I too have snapped heads off the bolts with breaker bars, just trying to get them out of knuckles. I had to use the nut to "jack" the bolt out of the hole from the other end (took me a while to figure that trick out!).

But if you don't want to break the bolts getting them out of the knuckle, try borrowing or renting a good impact wrench. Maybe a buddy has a big air impact wrench and he could loosen them up in his shop.