Tis hard to say. Do you have a manual? I don't have a v6. But, on a 4 cyl tis easy to do. There are some tricks to it...make sure that you note which way the distributer (dizzy) sits and which way the rotor points and DO NOT turn the motor w/the dizzy out (not the end of the world, but it really adds to your work).

Generally speaking, you have a hold-down bolt and that is it.

You remove the cap. Use a sharpie to mark the dizzy base and the block, so that it will go back in the same place, mark the rim on the dizzy, inline w/the rotor;s tip and remove the bolt and pull the beast.

You'll notice, that when you pull it, that the rotor turns, you'll have to rotate it that much when you put it back in.

That is simplified, but that is pretty much all there is to it.

Just wait for your friend.

 

V6 Automatic Distributor

Aloha Stinky1-
thanks for your reply. My vehicle is the automatic V6, not sure if that does anything? So, I think after I remove the air filter, air filter hose, I think that is correct, I will have more access to the distributor (dizzy). Now, from what I can see, there are 2 bolts that hold in the "dizzy," so if I understand you correctly on the outside I will make a mark with the sharpie and the engine block where they meet up, so that when I take out the old one, I can transfer the mark and put it on the new-rebuilt distributor. Just before I take it out, I will also make another mark on the rim where the cap mates to, in relation to where the tip of the rotor lines up with, like a minute hand on a clock, correct? Again, I will transfer this second mark to the new-rebuilt distributor.

Now, the part about the rotor moving as I pull out it out of the engine, would I just line up the rotor tip to the mark on the rim of the dizzy and then reinstall it, or can I do that after I have put it back into the motor? Just want to make sure I do things in the correct procedure. I do not intend on moving-cranking the engine so I believe I do not have to worry about what you call TDC, as I am trying to keep the new distributor in the same "alignment-direction" as the old one I am taking out.

Thank you again for your help and advice.
Mahalo

 

You are on the right track, remove the air cleaner/air flow meter assembly to get proper access. After that, remove the distributor cap and get that out of the way, then remove the rest of the distributor. Before you remove it, make note of where the rotor is pointing, that will be your reference when you go to put it the new one in. You actually cannot put the distributor in backwards the design prevents this.

You should use a timing light afterwards, you can guess and get close but unless you get really lucky the timing will not be correct. The timing procedure is on a sticker on the hood.

 

Aloha 71Corolla-

With the timing light, is this where the two bolts of the distributor are not tightened down completely, so when you have the engine on and in idle, you look for a reading of 10degrees before TDC? And if you hit that mark, then you can tighten down the 2 bolts if not, then can you while the engine is on, turn the distributor one way or the other in order to get the reading you want? I do not have a tachometer to hook to my engine so I hope with the timing light (connected to plug #1 I believe) and engine on and idling that I can dial in the "timing." Any other tips or advice much appreciated.

Thanks again for your help.
Mahalo!

 

You don't have to use a tach, although it would be helpful to see if the engine is idling at the correct speed. Take a look at this page it shows how to jumper TE1 and E1 on the service connector, you must do this to be able to get an accurate reading with your timing light. The pickup of your timing light goes on spark plug #1 wire, which is the back of the engine (closest to the firewall) on the passenger side.

Basically the procedure is warm up the engine, connect your timing light, connect the jumper wire. Then like you say, you have the bolts slightly loose and you rotate the distributor while aiming the light at the crank pulley until you see 10 degrees BTDC. You must have the intake installed and connected, sounds obvious but some people try and run the engine with it all removed, the engine will not run this way. Don't remove the screws on the airflow meter connector, this will damage the meter. There is a flexible metal clip that holds the connector on carefully pry that off.

When you remove the jumper, the timing will jump around between 13° and 27° according to the service manual. It says to put the car in neutral when checking the timing. Don't forget to replace the O-ring on the distributor they like to dry out and leak.

 

Aloha 71Corolla-

Got it, I will get a small piece of wire maybe 18 to 22gauge for the jumper and place it between the 2 locations you mentioned. When I take off the air flow/air meter, I will make sure not to take out the screws but rather pry off the clip as you mentioned and reverse the order when reinstalling it. I wish my hands were small because you said, you need the air flow/meter connected back on to do the test but you also have to adjust the distributor to get the timing correct. I suspect then, once I have the timing set, I will need to remove the air flow/meter stuff aside so that I can tighten down the 2 bolts that hold the distributor in.

Also, the rebuilt distributor I purchased from Rock Auto, the o-ring on it feels supple, but I will make sure to put some clean motor oil on it to lube it. Thanks again for your help.

Mahalo!

 

Konnichiwa Glen!

Did you ever get your timing adjusted? did you figure out that the car engine had to be fully assembled and running while you used the timing gun?

 

Konbanwa Greg!

Aloha and nice to hear from you! I hope one of these days to get down to one of your meets that you put together in the past with other Camry folks.

I must be honest, I have not yet done the time. She is running pretty nice I have to say. I did notice that the large rubber hose-connector that goes from the air cleaner box to the plenum (sp?) area is a little worn where the clamps are attached. So, I hope to find a nice one of those at our local salvage yard.

Question: So, as I can tell from your comment and others hear, I have to have everything put together, then somehow attach the inductive connector from the timing gun to #1 spark plug wire on the driver's side, then get over to the passenger side to look at the number and see if it is anywhere near 10degress BTDC, correct? Let's say the number is 15-BTDC, do you move the distributor to the right or left to advance it (I hope I got the terminology correct)? Also, at that point would you shut off the car, then remove the air-cleaner and hose, then move the distributor (right or left depending), then put everything back together and test it again?

I know this sound redundant but just trying to understand how to dial in the timing on these V6's.

Thanks again!
Mahalo & Arigatou!

 

You rotate the distributor when the engine is running, check with your timing light. When all good, shut the engine off and tighten the bolts. Run the engine and check again to verify.

BTW, you can get a little extra power out of the engine by adjusting the airflow meter and also the ignition timing. I run mine at 14° and have rotated the sprocket 3 clicks counter-clockwise but you can experiment to see what the engine likes best.

Good mod, the engine will run a bit smoother and give in theory more power, also you will get slightly better fuel economy. To seal the cap back up I use RTV it works great for this purpose.

 

Aloha 71Corolla-
Thank you for your reply. So I understand that I will need to loosen my distributor's hold down bolts a bit, have everything put together and then start the engine, then check the number and get my hands in there to rotate it.

Now the mod you are speaking about, it sounds like it involves 2 things:
1. Having the timing at 14° Before TDC, correct?

2. Adjusting the airflow meter: Is the sprocket you are speaking about on the airflow meter? I am trying to catch up with all of you knowledgeable folks in regard to the terminology and what part is where, so I do not accidentally rotate the wrong thing.

3. And forgive me again, when you mentioned cap and using RTV, was this the distributor cap?

Thanks again. Mahalo!

 

10* BTDC is the OEM spec for timing. You can run 91 octane gas and bump the timing up to 12-14* for a bit more power. The later V6's ('90-on) have a knock sensor to keep things safe for the engine. The 3s-fe guys aren't so lucky.

For the AFM mod - don't worry about it unless you feel comfortable opening up sensitive electronics. You actually cut open the plastic top of the AFM (black plastic D-shaped area) and move around some of the internal parts, then seal it back up. There is a thread on the gen3 section that details what you need to do. Remember though, that's a modification, not maintenance.

-Charlie

 

You can run 91 octane gas and bump the timing up to 12-14* for a bit more power.

Good info, I'm gonna try this, I run 91 octane all the time so might as well.

 

Ohayou gozaimasu Glen! :hi:

Yes, what 71Corolla said, should be rotated while running. No one can tell you whether to turn it left or right because nobody but you will know where it sits right now. Besides, you don't need to know ahead of time whether you turn left or right. If you turn it one way and it doesn't move you closer to the way you want then common sense is to rotate it the other way. Maybe better for you to have a friend with smaller hands rotate it while you hold and point the gun.

The Air Flow Meter mod is probably a little too advanced for you at this point. Just focus on getting your timing set and enjoy your ride, and making sure you don't accidentally close the door and lock your keys in your car while it's running. :rofl2:

Just go out there and do it....don't over think it, otherwise you'll never stop asking questions and get it done.

 

I see that there has been much conversation on this and that you've received a bunch of good advice. You were right on track w/what I was trying to say.

Theoretically, you don't have to adjust your timing. Assuming that your timing was set correctly the last time that the timing belt was changed...it will changed by the amount that your timing belt has stretched. Now, your belt could have not stretched a bit...in which case if you put your dizzy in, and lined the marks back up, your timing is the same as it was.

Or, most likely...the belt has stretched a tiny bit and your cam is slightly retarded (not enough to worry about) and your timing is therefore a degree or two also retarded.

IOW, if you line up the marks, it will run just like it did. But, most guys will double-check the timing by using a T-Light.

Glad to see that you got in running again.

Now, here is food for thought, on a Chevy...there are eight (I think) teeth on the dizzy. Those teeth mesh w/teeth on the cam. The dizzy drives the oil pump by a drive sticks in the pump and into the bottom of the dizzy. If the oil pump turns...the dizzy will not go in all the way and it will have to be turned (not hard to do) and guess what....eight teeth on the gear, eight possible ways to put it in (once you get the oil pump lined up).

 

The timing number you should go for depends on a lot of factors. 10*BTDC is the factory setting. Even at the factory setting, (at least on the 3s-fe) you can get occasional or even regular pinging. Even though the Owners Manual calls for 87, I had to use 89 even with the stock ignition timing to get rid of pinging. Unless you know EXACTLY what you are listening for and are willing to re-do the ignition timing multiple times to get it right, just leave it at the factory setting.

Same thing with the AFM mod - if you go too far you might cause problems with how the car runs, check-engine lights, etc. Make sure you know what you are doing before you go ahead with changing things from factory.

As for the late vs. early V6 - don't even worry about it. Every year there are small (or big) changes to cars - some are improvements and some aren't... In your case, you are missing out on like 3 hp due to the slightly more aggressive tuning of the timing in the ECU on the later V6's and that's about it. If done right, adjusting the base timing, the AFM and running higher octane gas will get you all that and more.

-Charlie

 

Aloha Charlie-

Thank you for the advice and understanding even though the factory setting is for 10*BTDC, I will see where the car is at now and make a note of how it runs, then adjust the distributor and see what happens. I will also look into the higher octane gasoline and possibly the AFM mode but first things first.

Mahalo

 

Sounds like you need to clean your throttle body or figure out why the throttle was sticking open slightly.

If the Cold Start Injector is spraying fuel when the engine is warmed up, the idle would go DOWN, not up. (too much fuel with the normal amount of air causes bad combustion and less power, not more)

-Charlie

 

Aloha Charlie-
can one do a little cleaning of the throttle body with it left in place, or is it best to pull it? What do you like to use when cleaning this area?

also, I saw a posting about from another member in regard to this high idle thing and it came down to his cables. I was trying to understand the part about a spring-clamp being loose. Was the only thing that he did was to tighten the spring or are there other adjustments that might be needed?

Thanks again.
Mahalo

 

The throttle cable comes from the top of the gas pedal (hopefully obvious), through the firewall, over to the cruise control actuator and then to the throttle body. The second cable from the throttle body is the kick-down cable to the front of the transmission.

If the sticky throttle issue happens again (especially if you can easily reproduce it), you'll want to pop the hood and see if the throttle plate is stuck open slightly. If the cable is loose, the throttle body itself is sticky (you should be able to close the plate by hand at that point). If the cable is tight, you have to figure out where the problem is with the cable. It is easy to pop the black plastic cover off the cruise control actuator - it covers a a fairly complex system of actuators and cables that allows the cruise control or the gas pedal to control the throttle at the engine. Lock for things out of place or tight in there. You may want to do that with the engine off so you don't hurt yourself on a pulley/belt over there...

If the throttle plate is totally closed, you may have a sticking IACV (idle-air control valve) or some other problem.

-Charlie

 

re: timing...

Aloha Stinky, 71Corolla, Greg and Charlie-

Thank you folks very much for your help and advice. Today was the day in which my friend could come over and we could tackle a couple of things, including the timing.

So, one of us had the timing light the other adjusting the distributor. We got it right on at 10* BTDC and then he locked in the 2 holding bolts.

Couple of things, he mentioned that the old Toyota "Wire clamps" that hold on the air intake hose are bad for cutting into the rubber so he suggested I get some band clamps. I also had found what I thought was a nice replacement hose at the yard for 5.00 but when we attached it, there was a little crack-line inside one of the ridges-valleys. I wonder if I can use some black RTV on this? I heard these are not cheap to buy brand new but was wondering beside the dealer where can you get one?

Now, a few times I heard "knocking-pinging" while putting a load on the engine (city driving going up some steep hills) between 15 to 25mph. This was before the timing was adjusted on the new reman distributor I installed 3 weeks ago. So today after getting it to 10*BTDC, I took it for a run and up a steep hill it made the noise. I was low on gas so I filled it up but this time I put in 89 mid-grade instead of the 87octane gas. Drove again and could still hear it but it was quieter. Keep the car running as we also had to deal with the ATF level, to get it correct and not overfill my transmission. drove on the freeway, did a couple of errands then back to our area and some city driving. No more knocking-pinging or very very little of it while going slower up a hill.

My questions are: does it take our system a little while to "break-in" after installing a new part (reman distributor) as well as to adjust the timing?

Will I need to keep using the mid-grade 89octane gasoline?

If I need to adjust the timing again, what if it needs to be advanced what number am I trying to "hit," and if I am retarding the timing what number in that case?

I still have to check the system for codes, did have the "service jumper-wire (paper clip)" in today when we did the timing and took it out when finished.

I have to say the engine does purr and the acceleration was smooth, very nice on the freeway. I know there is more to do but thank you very much for getting me this far!

Mahalo!


Idle is set to be around 700 in Park/Neutral. Lower in Drive is fine.

You can check for stored codes on the ECU. Let us know if anything is stored (the light doesn't have to be on in normal driving for a stored code).

-Charlie[/QUOTE]

 

:clap::rockon: