These use a shim setup rather than an adjustable screw to set the lash. Unless something terrible happens, it should never need to be adjusted.

 

if something terrible happens isn't that a bit late.

so, even at 228k it should not need one?

its kinda noisy when first started up in the mornings.

My Haynes manual refers to a valve adjustment.

the dealer also states that no adjustment is done.

Is it a PITA?

 

The something noisy is likely the oil being a bit slow to get to the heads. When was your last oil change? If it's due for one, I recommend putting about half a can of Seafoam into the oil ~40 miles beforehand, as it does a fine job scrubbing out any crud that may have accumulated over the years.

Setting the valve clearance in these is a bit of a pain and requires either specialized tools or a great deal of patience. You can measure your clearance with a standard feeler gauge but you need to either pull the cam or use a special setup to depress the valve for access to the shim.

Generally speaking, you are correct. If something terrible enough to change your valve clearance has happened, your engine is likely dead. If yours is just a bit clicky at initial startup, I would just leave it be and let it warm up for a bit before driving around.

 

Just so you have a second opinion... The normal way of thinking for these motors (both the 3s-fe and the 2vz-fe) is check the valve clearances at 15k miles and then never again. They almost never need adjustment unless there has been a problem (dirty/old oil, etc.) and even then there would be worse problems elsewhere in the motor to deal with first.

I've personally had a few Camrys: 267k miles (crashed car), 310k miles (blown engine, other reasons), 145k miles (swapped to better engine, no problems with original) and 185k miles (blown engine, other reasons) without any valve adjustments ever done.

As for the startup noise, '88 All-trac has it correct. Also make sure you use a good oil filter with a quality anti-drainback valve on there. No Fram crap. OEM Toyota, Bosch, Purolator and others are all good choices other than Fram.

-Charlie

 

I burn mobil 1 but have always used fram's . I did not know they were poopee, although I here that lately their other products have a disappointing reputation. I change the oil at about 4 to 5k.

the clickety clack noise is worse when cold but not so bad on hot days and usually goes away when she's all warmed up, so.....not to worry?

 

read the following page. its a bit of a read, but the information in it about oil filters is beyond anything you will get from asking google if a "insert name here" filter sucks lol

http://www.minimopar.net//oilfilters/reference.html

just a preview of what the guy has done..............

 

I like Toyota filters the best, the filter element has the most surface area, and they seal properly every time. The rubber seal is also pre-lubed from the factory.

 

wow, that was an excellent read, pretty in depth and fairly objective. I have always known that Baldwin/hastings was a best choice.

 

i can tell you my V6 has never had one, yet it definitely needs one at 306K. Its has loud valve chatter. Make sure you dont confuse the valves for the injectors when listening, ours on the V6 are fairly loud.

However, it all depends. Some engines may never need to be adjusted, and some need adjusting constantly.