I think the instructions are correct. Removing only the transmission requires supporting the engine, such as with straps to suspend it from a "cherry picker" hoist while the transmission is lowered and removed.
Standard procedure at transmission shops.
Although it is not the primary reason for removing them as a unit, it is much easier to reattach the transmission to the engine while both are out of the car.

 

a post a while back had a guy removing the transaxle without removing the engine and that sounded painful but i have no experience at all pulling stuff out of the car but that appeared to be doable. dunno about taking just the engine out though.
tony

 

Much easier to just pull them both out together out the top. Then split them apart and bolt the new engine to the old transmission and drop it back in.

Its probably doable without the transmission but it will take you a bunch more time and be a real pain.

 

I picked up a 2000 Camry [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]LE[/COLOR][/COLOR] with a bad engine for cheap. I just got a replacement engine that has lower miles and a warranty from a local salvage yard for a good deal. The instructions that I found online says to take the engine and transmission out the top as a unit. Is it [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]possible[/COLOR][/COLOR] to pull just the engine?

I would prefer to not mess with removing the axles and messing with all the transmission side of things. I have pulled just the engine from various [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]GM[/COLOR][/COLOR] front drive vehicles, 4 cylinder and V6's. Thanks and have a good one!

I just looked at the FSM for my 1995 at it said to remove the axles and pull the engine & trans together. It also said to unbolt the mounts from the frame instead of the mounts from the engine and trans. Not having to deal with the bearing and short axle between the rear mount and trans is a plus.
W95c

 

I recommend pulling the engine by itself. I have done a 1MZFE swap in a Sienna with only the engine pulled. If you can do that, you can do pretty much any Toyota engine.

In short do the following (doesn't have to specifically be in this order):

1. Jack up the vehicle and support it on jack stands.
2. Remove the hood
3. Drain the radiator coolant.
4. Place a jack under the differential to keep the transmission fairly level remove the intake piping.
5. Remove the radiator hoses from the engine and transmission (if automatic), disconnect fan and sensor wiring, and remove the radiator assembly.
6. Disconnect the fuel rail feed line from the fuel filter.
7. Unplug the ECU and remove all wiring not attached to the engine (transmission, fuse box, grounds, etc.)
8. Remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold.
9. Remove the drive belts from the engine.
10. Unplug the A/C compressor clutch connector, unbolt the A/C compressor from the engine, and hang it out of the way (bungee cord or something).
11. Unplug the power steering pump pressure sensor, unbolt the power steering pump from the engine, and hang it out of the way.
12. Remove all MAP sensor hoses, brake booster hoses, and other loose wiring or connections from the engine to the anywhere else on the car.
13. If automatic, remove all of the torque converter bolts from the engine.
14. Support the engine with a hoist.
15. Remove all of the ENGINE mounts (passenger side axle must be removed for rear bracket).
16. Remove all of the bellhousing bolts.
17. Verify nothing is holding the engine to the car (hoses, wiring, fuel lines, etc.).
18. Remove the engine from the car WITH the wiring harness attached to the engine.
19. Swap over harness and better parts to your new engine (sensors, etc.). This would be a good time to relocate the EGR VSV to the intake manifold.
20. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Hope that helps.

 

You can pull the 2.2 up through the hood without the transmission. The biggest issue I see is unbolting the pas side axle carrier bracket from the engine - access isn't the best.
Also, disconnect the wiring harness from the transmission.

When I was doing the clutch and flywheel in-car and had the tranny disconnected from the engine, there was ample space to pull the engine alone. Make sure to support everything properly - engine and tranny are heavy, and the auto tranny with torque converter weighs a couple of hundred pounds. It's really, really heavy.
Other than that, should be pretty straight-forward.

 

Although the FSM did say to pull them together for what ever reason, I have seen many at the Pick & Pull where the engines were gone and the AT was still in the car.
W95c

 

Thanks for the help. I haven't decided yet if I will pull them out as a unit or separate them in the car. If I do split them, I will do a write up to help anyone else looking at doing it. I started removing things: took out the radiator & fans, air box/duct, cruise control module, and disconnected and pulled back most of the harness.

The replacement engine has ~109K miles on it, but ran good. I want to do some work to the new/used engine before it goes in, here's what I have in mind, let me know if there is something else that you recommend:

• Timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys & springs
• Water pump
• Crank & rod bearings, oil pan gasket
• New valve cover gasket, including sealing up the end cap and spark plug tubes
• Intake & exhaust manifold gaskets
• Tune up stuff: plugs, wires, PCV. I lucked out on the air filter as it has a K&N filter installed

More to come as I continue working on it. Thanks again and have a good one!

 

Thanks for the help. I haven't decided yet if I will pull them out as a unit or separate them in the car. If I do split them, I will do a write up to help anyone else looking at doing it. I started removing things: took out the radiator & fans, air box/duct, cruise control module, and disconnected and pulled back most of the harness.

The replacement engine has ~109K miles on it, but ran good. I want to do some work to the new/used engine before it goes in, here's what I have in mind, let me know if there is something else that you recommend:

• Timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys & springs
• Water pump
  [*]Crank & rod bearings, oil pan gasket
  
• New valve cover gasket, including sealing up the end cap and spark plug tubes
• Intake & exhaust manifold gaskets
• Tune up stuff: plugs, wires, PCV. I lucked out on the air filter as it has a K&N filter installed

More to come as I continue working on it. Thanks again and have a good one!

Leave them alone, unless you're going to have the crankshaft machined.

I would consider removing the balance shafts, it will boost oil pressure and add to engine longevity. Reman engines don't come with them.

It's really up to you to leave the trans in the car or take it with the engine. I normally pull them together, it's pretty much the same amount of work either way. The mounts and passengers side axle have to come off either way.

If you leave it in the car, the trans and engine need to be mated in the car, which can be tedious, but you don't have to undo the drivers side axle or shift linkage. Normally the engine needs to be tilted upward to make room for the transmission to slide off.

If you take them together, the drivers side ball joint will need to be unbolted and the axle pulled out of the trans, shift linkage undone, and the wiring unhooked, but the engine and trans can be mated on the ground, which is much easier.

 

Thanks, guys! My intention is to simply freshen up a used, junk yard engine. I do not have a competent machine shop near by, so I am not planning any machine works. This is just a few things to refresh it, not a rebuild. The guy I know at the junk yard tested it and it ran good before they dismantled the car. I do not know the history of the used engine to know if it was regularly maintained or if it has any sludge issues. With just over 100K miles, I see no harm in just replacing the crank bearings with stock sized replacements.

I have rebuilt a number of engines, both stock-ish and high performance engines. The shops I worked with before they closed never polished cranks without first turning them. Either the crank is good enough to run as-is, or needs machined. They would turn the journals down, but not all the way, the polishing removed the last bit of material to bring the dimensions exactly where they should be. You can not reliably control things that closely by just polishing.

Thanks again and have a good one!

 

So what exactly are you going to do to the engine? Just seals and new bearings? Or will you pull the head and lap the valves/valve seats and put in new valve stem seals.

 

The plan is just to replace the bearings and various seals/gaskets, leave the cylinder head alone (other than seal the spark plug tubes), then drop it in the car.

 

 

No one mentioned WHICH engine you're pulling, though I assumed 5SFE.
Pull the harmonic balancer. This will give enough room to slide the trans off in situ. Otherwise, yes, trans and engine together.