While I was at it, I decided to make the new steering wheel switches blue...

Sort of the true color... like a cobalt blue color, not as light as the other two photos make it out to be...

 

Looks nice.

 

looks good man, i assume the process gonna be the same for LE as well right? but maybe easier since i can just get the steering wheel from a wrecked XLE? ( But oh well, its hawaii, i never see a 6th gen camry in scarpyard at all), but new mazda 6, accord i have seen them.

wish you have a DIY tutorial, it will help a lot of brothers who might have interest. i probably just gonna add this to my bucket list together with Rear central console A/C vent for my LE when the warranty is up lol.

 

looks good man, i assume the process gonna be the same for LE as well right? but maybe easier since i can just get the steering wheel from a wrecked XLE? ( But oh well, its hawaii, i never see a 6th gen camry in scarpyard at all), but new mazda 6, accord i have seen them.

wish you have a DIY tutorial, it will help a lot of brothers who might have interest. i probably just gonna add this to my bucket list together with Rear central console A/C vent for my LE when the warranty is up lol.

The LE might be different? The issue I believe you may run into with an LE is that the DISP is combined with the XLE right hand side controls which also include the auto-temp/AC controls (so you'd have some inop buttons on your steering pad.) But, if you don't mind the inop buttons, yeah, should be the same. If you take off the steering column lower cover, you'll see two connectors plugged into the bottom of the clock spring assembly (yellow and black.) Look at pin3 on the black connector and if it is empty, you'll need to run a signal wire from there to the back of the cluster (tap into the purple pin-22 wire, as its a serious P.I.A. to get to Junction3)

I'll try to write up a "how-to"

 

It was just plug an play except for the "disp" ? Does the info on the screen work, like the miles until empty. If so that really cool and I might look into it.

 

Well... not quite plug and play. Not all that "difficult" either though. I was hoping it was just hook up the new cluster and then hook up the new steering wheel controls "DISP" and it would work, but it didn't.

I'll try to do a "how-to" after I reply to you.

But in a nutshell, the wiring for the US and AU spec steering wheel controls to the clock spring are all the same. The wiring from the junction 3 (behind the cluster, close to the firewall) to the back of the cluster is the same as well. the issue with the SE (and possibly the LE?) is that the purple wire (signal wire, I guess it could be called) which goes from pin-3 on the black connector of the clock spring to Junction 3 is not there. I had to run a wire and then all worked.

At first it seemed like the AVG Speed wasn't working right, as I knew I had been driving at least an avg speed of 25 mph around my neighborhood and it was only say 2 mph. But the next few times I drove it, it seemed to be "learning" and now all work great.

It gives me:

Outside Temp
Cruising Range
Tank AVG MPG
Trip AVG MPH
Time since start

 

***It looks like the steering wheel controls from the newer Solara models will work. The button are silver, but fit the SE steering wheel perfectly***

Thanks to TcamSE07 for the information

For anyone that may have an SE and want to try this "mod"... the part number for the steering wheel controls with the DISP (with Bluetooth) button is:

AU Toyota: 84250-06200-B0 (cheapest I found brand new was like $175 not including shipping)

It is very hard to find brand new however. If you do not have the right hand bluetooth controls at all and just want to replace your blank right steering wheel cover with the DISP style,

AU Toyota: 84250-06190-B0 (much cheaper option and a little more availability at $60 USD from various places online)

I wound up searching Australian eBay for either a used set of switches or a used steering wheel which had the switches, the latter being what I found. I reached out to the australian members on here and had jeffbro reply and he wound up shipping the steering wheel pads (sans the steering wheel to reduce shipping costs). jeffbro was awesome to work with and he hooked me up, since NO sellers on AU australia want to ship from Australia to USA.

AND Finally I will say that anyone that wants to be a little more experimental than I...

If you take apart your RH switch, you will see on the circuit board, "DISP" is printed and pads to solder a push-button and a resistor to the US market part are there. So I am assuming, since they are easier to find and cost much less, you could just get an extra set of switches (even just the cheaper, non bluetooth, left side) and use it as a donor for the circuit parts needed. Then you'll just have to figure out a way to make the non-moving blank pad be able to either move, or use some other way to press the DISP soldered pad...

****The more I was thinking about it... knowing the circuit board is the same (minus the actual DISP button), is might be worth just buying the second part number above for the $60.. and then just using that as a donor to your factory switch. That would give you the circuit board parts PLUS the factory button. You could not use the LED from the board to light it up, as I noticed it is more of a dark green than the aqua color (if I remember my original LED color correctly, as I've changed it from aqua/green, to white, now blue.) PRETTY sure the AU color was different from USA factory color...****

 

Here are a couple images that may help reference what I was talking about in previouscomments...

This image below is behind the cluster and I am trying to focus attention to the small white junction block behind the bundled wires. It is nearly impossible to access, without removing dash/wire bundles.

This image is showing the two connectors which plug into the back of the cluster. The larger one, which is being pointed to, is the one which has the purple/grey wire at pin22 (not to be confused with the other SOLID purple wire at pin1) that is the signal wire coming from Junction block 3. Due to not being able to access the junction block as easily as I would have liked, I just ran a wire (which I spliced and even though it doesn't show, I soldered and heat wrapped, as well, after the picture) from here to the clock spring, lower black connector, pin3.

Once I am home, I will take apart and take more pictures of the steering wheel controls, as well as the clock spring connector...

 

I never did go back and take photos of the clock spring. I apologize...


Here is a photo of the schematic. It shows the DISP switch going to the clock spring PIN3 and then through two junction blocks terminating at PIN22 of the cluster connector. I bypassed the junction blocks and went right from PIN3 on the clock/spiral spring directly to the Violet/purple wire which goes into PIN22 on the display connector. This is just a data line and carries no power, so no need to remove your battery or anything like that. Once these two are connected (I'd recommend soldering them, along with some shrink tubing, you'll be good to go.


Any questions, please ask!


Will

 

sorry for bump up this thread as well, but i would like to add a few point as i almost scored all the parts for this mod as well as the center ac vent

for all LE camry, right hand display only siwtch is available from highlander sport 08+, and this part is easily found at ebay....

mileage, the cluster i got have way more mileage than i need, i will need to reprogram it, please search for the post...

 

for all LE camry, right hand display only siwtch is available from highlander sport 08+, and this part is easily found at ebay....

Well, there you go! I knew there had to be some crossover between models...


2012 Highlander Wheel on eBay

 

gotta BIG thanks to baileyw813 for this MOD.. took me a month to find the right mileage on the cluster and the control. The steering wheel control is from Toyota Solara 07-08 SLE. it work perfect.

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]

 

AWESOME! Good to know the Solara steering wheel controls fit! Like I said, I knew there had to be other models with similar parts. And to think I went through the trouble of outsourcing from Australia!!


Looks great!!

 

Anyway we can get the Pics back up? Photobucket took them down

thanks

 

I'll try to get them back up.

 

thank you. i think i follow just want to confirm the pin location.

 

If I remember correctly. The clock spring pin #3 is empty if you have an SE, as there was no data line connected from pin 3 to the junction block, behind the cluster.

This may be different if you have an XLE or LE model, there might be the purple data line from pin 3 to the junction block already, then it is completely plug n play, since the XLE and hybrid models had a data display on their models already.

You can either run your own data line/wire (supposed to be "V" violet, I am guessing, I'd say it is purple haha) from pin 3 on the clock spring to junction "3A"...... OR what I did was was splice into the "V" purple wire at, I believe was pin22 on the cluster connector. The SE is just missing the purple data wire from the clock spring to the junction block. But it does have the purple line from the junction block to the cluster connector.

I've attached some photos.

 

I see, yes thats what i figured, wasnt sure if pin 3 had a wire at the clock spring, thanks for clarifying. Just gotta count pins and find the empty pin slot 3. i get confused witch way to count on the plug, lol

 

Not sure about the clock spring connector, but most connectors will label pin1 and then the last pin (whatever the highest pin # is) on the actual connector. Makes it easier. But the clock spring might not be as nice. The "male" side of the connection (the one with the wires in it) should have the pins numbered, not on the clock spring female connection side. I am fairly confident it did follow this labeling scheme.

 

Gotcha, didnt know that, i see it on the plug you are correct. it has all corners numbered. I will post a pic of the black plug after i get to it this weekend. Thanks much for your help...

 

 

Keep me posted. I’m about to order a speedometer and an entire solara steering wheel.

 

Bailey, can you tell me what the rectangle on the tachometer, next to the ‘S’ is? Is it just there for design or does something actually light up there?

 

Thanks to Bailey/Will for the DIY and Support.. Its Done...


Purple wire #22 Spliced


#3 pin at Clock spring. i used a plug pigtal that came with my XLE cluster. Just lift connector stop and slides right in.


Complete. I have a retro'd IS3 Fsport Steering wheel with Paddles and all Buttons work...

 

Wow, that's impressive.

I'm amazed you got the steering wheel to work. Question is, how about the airbag?

 

I will also add that the XLE Clusters from 09 are different than 11"

The 11 is Flat around the Tach and Speedo.. The 09 is Raised.. i used the 09, it gives it a more modern look, a 3D effect.

 

I'm talking about the red circle. I guess the 2009 doesn't have it. Now that I think about it I think it's for push button start. I saw a hybrid stock photo that showed 'Ready' in it. I could be wrong...

Example:

 

its for the Sport shift

 

I guess my circle was unclear. I got my odometer yesterday and took everything apart. I'm referring to the red arrow, not the blue arrow. I'm not convinced its for the hybrid model. My rectangle came blank and the pcb board had empty solder pads for leds. Also I got a 2010 cluster and the gauges are also raised, not flat like you said.

 

ill check my cluster later on, ill see what it indicates.

 

Cool thanks

 

I have that area on mine as well, but it doesn’t light up and I can’t see what it’s for.

 

I may just wrap it in CF Vinyl. Haven’t thought of anything clever to put in there.

 

Checked last night, its there aswell, doesnt light up