Did you get this fixed? Is it brake lights only? The sensor is connected to tail and side markers, too. The brake or stop light fuse is possible but if it is blown, of course, it could be due to fault elswhere.

 

I’ll check that next. I decided to check the lamp failure sensor first since it’s seemed to be a common solution.

 

Step 1 - start the car with your head/parking lights off and foot OFF the brake.
Step 2 - turn on parking lights - does the failure light turn on?
Step 3 - press the brake pedal - does the failure light turn on?

That will tell you which part of the system isn't working. It is nearly guaranteed to be the sensor box in the trunk. You can find it on the driver's side, behind the trim just behind where the fuel filler goes into the body. Remove it, open it up and see if there are burned components in there. If so, you can either repair it, replace it or bypass it - your choice. Please don't drive with non-working brake lights...

-Charlie

 

The followed the listed steps and the dashboard light only turns on after the brake pedal is pressed. I will check the yellow box for any damage

 

I would also open up the loom of wires inside the trunk by the driver's side trunk hinge and inspect the wires inside there. Those wires have a tendancy to fray and break as the trunk is constantly opened and closed over the years. Sometimes broken wires inside there touch each other causing all kinds of problems.

Mike

 

A little update on my situation. I took a look at the driver side fuse box and noticed that my fuses weren’t the correct amperage. I have two 7.5a. One of them is in the correct spot the other one is where a 20a should be. I have a 20a where a 15 should be. And I have a 15 in the correct spot. This is my first time doing any sort of electrical work on this car so I am not sure if these was the previous owner of if this came like this from factory. Should I reorganize the fuses to their correct locations? I have a new 15a should I replace the 20 and see where that gets me?

 

A little update on my situation. I took a look at the driver side fuse box and noticed that my fuses weren’t the correct amperage. I have two 7.5a. One of them is in the correct spot the other one is where a 20a should be. I have a 20a where a 15 should be. And I have a 15 in the correct spot. This is my first time doing any sort of electrical work on this car so I am not sure if these was the previous owner of if this came like this from factory. Should I reorganize the fuses to their correct locations? I have a new 15a should I replace the 20 and see where that gets me? View attachment 475663 View attachment 475664

Even smaller update: I double-checked that the yellow box didn't have any indications of burning or overall crappiness, and I replaced the 20a fuse with a 15 a as indicated by the repair manual, and so far, the issue persists. I checked the trunk wiring at the beginning of this journey but I think I should give it another look. The dashboard light is still on and my brake lights still do not work. My side markers and my license plate light both work it is just my brake lights.

 

Put a test light (not a volt meter) on the connector going to the failure sensor box see if you have brake light there.

 

Will do once this rain stops. Also I think I found what caused the initial I decided to double check all the wiring and found water on the passenger side taillight assembly. It was a very minimal amount but it was right on the connectors for the bulbs.

Edit: Not sure if its worth mentioning but the indicator bulb still works. Both turn signals are functioning.

 

Assuming you don't have any rust holes you are getting water in past dried out sealant on the tail lights, and/or failed seam sealer in the drain channel near the trunk rubber seal. Another possible leak source is the vent on the drivers side trunk pocket.

Check for corrosion in the bulb sockets and on the ground wires (secured via screws to the housing).

 

There is corrosion on one of the ground wire screws. Give it to me straight doc what is the best way for me to resolve this issue. I know I will have to reseal the assembly since I believe the water is getting in through there but that seems like a job for a sunnier day. I don't think the connector is water-damaged because the turning signal light works. Should I bypass the yellow box to see if the other brake lights work?

 

For the record I had that module go out with no signs of internal damage.


At the time I had access to many free modules and some worked, most didn't, some lit the light when brakes were applied even with al bulbs were fine, soem liked only certain bulbs etc etc.. .

Like 71 said, test. Id test from the brake light switch and work your way back...



my money is personally on that damn module though.

 

I got it to work. The failure lamp sensor was bad even though it didn’t show any signs of damage. I tested the connector and it was fully functioning. I bypassed the sensor using white90dx advice.

 

i knew that thing was at fault!!

 

Sorry dumb question does the box then get plugged in again ? Or do I connect the wires from that connector?

 

I only said to unplug it. The three unused wires are the power, ground and output wires for the sensing electronics. Connecting the wires as stated bypasses the box so it is no longer needed (and you will never get a rear light warning on the dash again).

The wires mentioned pass all the current for the rear tail lights and brake lights, so make sure they are a quality connections (cut, strip, twist, solder and heat shrink, if possible). A quality (emphasis on quality) crimp will work too. This is a big safety issue, so make sure you do it right.

-Charlie

 

I literally have been fighting this same thing in my 93 wagon and i have an extra light failure sensor, it doesn't like the LED i put in my third brake light, but if i can bypass the yellow box and no more issues, i might also go this route, also charlie nailed it, on my 91 i had both those issues he stated and had to throughly clean both sides light, and their gaskets and reseal, no more issues!!!
I also punched a hole in the bottom where the water was collecting so no more collecting even if it fails to guide the water out again, it will drain no matter what, and nowy trunk smells way better and no more water in it! Solid peeps here on Toyota nation, i can assure this!

 

it doesn't like the LED i put in my third brake light

Of course - it is checking to make sure that sufficient current flows. Higher efficiency LEDs will use less current and will be sensed as a blown bulb.

-Charlie