Do it yourself. If you don't know how to. Then you can get it done much cheaper at local shop. You can also buy OEM and take it to local shop. But I'd ask local shop and price it first.

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Do it yourself. If you don't know how to. Then you can get it done much cheaper at local shop. You can also buy OEM and take it to local shop. But I'd ask local shop and price it first.

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Thanks for the feedback.

If I buy them myself and take to a local shop, do you have a good online store you know?

 

Your rear brakes should be OK. Ask that independent mechanic for his opinion about doing the fronts only at this time. Won't hurt to have a "second opinion".

 

Read this thread also - Disc Pads and Rotors Suggestions.

I am a big fan of AKebono ProACT pads and Centric rotors

Edit: I get mine from Rockauto

 

Some shops may balk at using owner-supplied parts. So, check this out with a shop you're considering.

A Toyota dealership near me offered deep discounts on OEM parts if ordered online, but had a disclaimer stating that prices apply to DIY use only. If you bring them in to have their shop install them, they will charge a surcharge
equal to the difference between the discount price and list.

That same dealer no longer offers discounts on parts ordered online.

 

You can do the front pads now and leave the rear pads for later. If those are the originals you probably have at least 6000 miles on the rear pads. Akebono ProAct or the stronger ASP pads are around $50/set. You might not need to replace the rotors. Ceramic pads are very gentle on the rotors. You might want to try the ASP given the little price difference.

And you do have torque wrenches right? 1/2"-drive for wheel lugs, 3/8"-drive for caliper work, and 1/4"-drive (inch-pound!) for bleeders (not everybody use it for bleeder screws but I do). Check Tekton and Lexivon on Amazon. I just use the Harbor Freight $9.99 when on sale, but some like better ones. LOL!

If you can't change them yourself, find a local shop. They might want to use their own parts, but check with them first. Also check a shop's reviews. I wouldn't expect any more than $50-100 for just slapping the pads on there without trying to mess with your rotors. But you can ask them to evaluate the system first and make sure everything else is good to go. Many tire shops also do basic maintenance work. Again, check reviews, or learn to DIY.

If any grease is needed on the caliper pins, make sure to use JIS K2228 approved grease like CRC Silaramic. Petroleum based greases will swell rubbers and cause the caliper pins to seize later on. The included black moly grease pack with new pads is for metal-to-metal contact points only, as with any petroleum based grease.

I personally would flush out the brake fluid as well using Valvoline DOT 3/4 brake fluid. The cost is $8.49 from Advance Auto. IMO the traditional two-person method is best for DIY.

Verify the part numbers on Akebono's web catalog first. The "-A" suffix includes new clips. Order those if available.

Home - Akebono Brake Experts

Akebono, a global leader in automotive braking technology, delivers NVH solutions with superior stopping power, clean and quiet performance, and longer pad and rotor life.

akebonobrakes.com

And use the 5% off discount code if you buy from rockauto, scroll to the newest post:

RockAuto Discount Code

Hey guys, I got this discount code but it will expire on October 24th and I won't be using it. I don't know if it can be used more than once so whoever uses it first might be the only one to get it. All you do is put this number "38391513162399" without the quotes in the "How did you hear...

www.toyotanation.com

 

Unless you only do stop and go driving and speed and tailgate all the time, I think the dealer is lying to you. I usually get more than 80,000 miles on a set of front pads and much more on the rear shoes. My wife got lies to several times at the dealer about her brakes, including the time I had replaced the brakes myself and the dealer told her her brakes were worn out. I made them refund her money that time. They price their parts at twice what aftermarket premium parts cost. They charge you flat rate for every operation; replace pads+ resurface or replace disks and drums + flush and bleed the brakes. I'm glad to know I saved more than $1000 changing my own brakes. Get your brakes looked at by someone else, unless you can look at them and see how much meat is left on the pads and shoes. There should be another20,000- 30,000 miles left on them.

 

Just get a second opinion or do the work yourself.

 

I personally strongly suggest you to use oem pads, part number 04465-07010. This are front pads, NBK brand. Mine lasted 92000 miles (but it depends on driving style) no dust, no squeak. You could replace them yourself or ask a handy friend's help, it's one of the easiest DIY activities.

 

I never liked the brakes that came on my 2010 Corolla. They were grabby. I changed them at 85,000 miles for premium aftermarket pads. The original pads still had meat on them, but I was tired of the grabbing. The aftermarket pads give a smooth stop and they cost half what Toyota was charging for pads..

 

I second Akebono pads and RockAuto.com. Contrary to another comment, the dealer is not lying about the front pads. At 1mm they are paper thin and past the sqeekers, if you have them. The rears should have several thousands of miles left. Get a plastic pad gage set for a few bucks and keep an eye on the rears. Start looking for pads at 2mm and replace before getting to 1mm. If there is no shimmy in the steering wheel on braking, the rotors should still be serviceable. If not, they're around $30 each for quality coated rotors at RockAuto. YouTube University has endless videos on brake jobs for your model. If you're not up to doing it yourself, the dealer quotes are absurd and any independent shop should be much more reasonable.

 

I usually go to my local Mavis Tire Shop.They usually run a good brake special & the brakes have a lifetime warranty.When the brakes need replacing all you pay is the labor to install, pads are free.It's not a bad deal.
Good luck !

 

I like advics you can buy them on rockauto

 

They are good too but Mavis seems better for me.They are less than a mile from my home which helped with my decision.

 

Watch YouTube videos! A great channel is "A Car Care Nut."

 

Thanks !

 

Like others mentioned, get the front brakes done now; rear brakes down the road. An independent shop will run you about $100 less, maybe. And the savings will be mostly labor. Even independent shops charge more than cost for parts. They have to stay in business too.

I changed my front brakes on my 2015 at about 105,000 miles. I did a lot of highway driving. I had them replace both pads and rotors and I believe the price was right under $500. I always got coupons for dealer service AND I asked for a discount. I used the same service writer every time and always got a 10% discount. They appreciated the loyalty (only toyota dealership in town) and quite honestly, I never had a complaint that went unresolved.

I changed the rear brakes at 90k miles. The calipers was dragging. This happens when you spend a couple winters in Syracuse, NY aka Salt City. have them make sure the rear calipers are working correctly.

Good luck.

 

Akebono from RockAuto or Amazon, flush the brake fluid, and you can probably wait till next time for new rotors.

 

By the way, if people don't know, the brake stuff for Toyota is made by Aisin, that's their transmission manufacturer. I may be off on the spelling but I believe that the market name is Advics.

There's been a recent redesign that I don't really like. I needed to replace a caliper on the rear of a 2015 RAV4 while it functions fine, it's harder to change the pads out because it doesn't flip up like the old unit did. I only changed it out because some idiot at a Toyota dealership had over-torqued the bleeder valve while preparing it for resale. Toyota did pay for it ultimately, but it was a pain in the ass.

 

Having gotten new tires, I now want to tackle my brakes. I went to my local dealership, two days ago. This is the pricing for parts:

Front brake pads $58.00
2 Front rotors $168.00 ($84.00 each)
Shim Kit $24.95

Rear brake pads $67.50
2 Front rotors $163.98 ($81.99 each)
Shim Kit $22.87

For labor they are charging me a total of $580.49.

The dealership said that they always replace the shim kit when they do brakes. They said that by doing this there will be no problems with brake performance. Is it necessary to always replace the shims?

My next step is to go through the ordering sites that have been suggested to me in this thread (and another thread that was also suggested: Disc Pads and Rotors Suggestions), to see whether I can get these same OEM parts at a lower price. I have a mechanic who will only charge me for labor if I bring my own parts.

 

Having gotten new tires, I now want to tackle my brakes. I went to my local dealership, two days ago. This is the pricing for parts:

Front brake pads $58.00
2 Front rotors $168.00 ($84.00 each)
Shim Kit $24.95

Rear brake pads $67.50
2 Front rotors $163.98 ($81.99 each)
Shim Kit $22.87

For labor they are charging me a total of $580.49.

The dealership said that they always replace the shim kit when they do brakes. They said that by doing this there will be no problems with brake performance. Is it necessary to always replace the shims?

My next step is to go through the ordering sites that have been suggested to me in this thread (and another thread that was also suggested: Disc Pads and Rotors Suggestions), to see whether I can get these same OEM parts at a lower price. I have a mechanic who will only charge me for labor if I bring my own parts.

I've done a lot of brakes, and shims came in the box with the pads. A few that didn't include shims, I cleaned the old ones and applied anti-squeal compound and all went perfect. Selling shims separately is just robbery. The rotor price seemed high to me, but what vehicle is it anyway, a Tundra with duallies? Unless you do stop and go exclusively, I don't see how you could wear down to 1 mm in only 59,000 miles. Look at them for yourself.

 

I would highly recommend checking out "A Car Care Nut" on YouTube. He discusses Toyota brakes and the differences between the original factory equipment and the Toyota branded aftermarket equipment. Being that the brakes are made by their transmission maker, Aisin, I'd personally use them (and have). Parts.toyota.com (enter zip code 88055 for a good pricing comparison).

I typically pay less for OEM than sale prices at the auto parts stores. Before that, I would use RockAuto, Amazon and eBay. The best deal was an open box pad set on eBay. Big brand names on Amazon were the most disappointing. I think manufacturers dump bad products on Amazon. The Bosch on Amazon were absolute garbage.

 

Had to take a break from my research on rotors and pads due to work pressure. Now finally getting back to it. I've condensed all the suggestions I got into the following list:

Akebono ACT pads and Centric rotors from Rockauto

Centric cryo-treated rotors and Centric Posi Quiet pads

AKebono ProACT pads and Centric rotors

Akebono ProAct or the stronger ASP pads

Oem pads, part number 04465-07010. This are front pads, NBK brand

For someone who knows little about cars, this list is a bit intimidating.

My feeling is that I get Akebono ASP pads and Centric rotors from Rockauto. Would this be comparable to the OEM pads and rotors I now have?

I have a mechanic who will install whatever I bring him.

 

Raybestos Element 3 would have a higher friction rating as would Akebono ASP (vs their ProAct). The Element 3 would have semi-met content (named "hybrid"), and may handle heat better. I meant to try them but Akebonos just seem to last forever.

 

As I mentioned before, I'm thinking of getting the following parts which I've now confirmed are available at Rockauto:

Akebono ASP 1222A front pads: $49.79
Akebono ASP 1212A rear pads: $53.79

Centric front rotors 32044146F: $40.79
Centric rear rotors 32044188F: $46.79

I finished watching a YouTube video today entitled, "How to replace your Toyota brakes" (Parts 1, 2 & 3) by the Car Care Nut. Very helpful, as recommended by DislikesNissan&Subaru:

This video makes it clear that there are definitely some small but very important steps that can be overlooked when getting new brakes. If I'm going to use a non-dealer mechanic, which is what I intend to do, I need to make sure that he'll follow certain steps.

I'm assuming that the Rockauto parts do not come with:

Shim Kits
Rear Rotor Rubber Plugs
Fitting Kit
Pins that come with the pads
Wear indicators

So it's really important that the mechanic saves the original parts on the list above. Right? I do not mind buying these parts from the dealership but it's tricky since most mechanics want to finish the work in one shot. In other words, they wouldn't want a car hanging around in the garage for an extra day while one buys extra needed parts from the dealership. Alternatively, I could buy the parts before the work is started and return what I do not use, assuming they allow this.

The gears in my brain are still grinding.

 

Three days ago my order of Akebono brake pads and Centric rotors arrived from Rockauto. I plan to take them to a mechanic for installation. Since the only place that had examined my car was my local Toyota dealership, I decided, on a whim, to have it checked somewhere else. A local Monro store agreed to check out the car on a lift.

Unlike the Toyota dealership, the Monro garage said I did not need rear rotors. But I needed everything else the Toyota dealership recommended: Front rotors and pads and rear pads.

Anyway, I asked Monro wether they could install my Akebono pads and Centric rotors. They said they could not. I would have to use their parts, if I wanted them to do the job. If they do the job (install front and rear pads and front rotors) they will charge $625.55 (parts, labor and tax). They also said that they use a rotor brand called Brakes Forever! (see photo below). They claimed that these are really good rotors. Has anyone ever heard of or had this brand? Just curious.

An independent mechanic I know has told me that he will charge me $200.00 to do the job with my parts. I'm thinking to have him install front and rear pads and just the front rotors. I'm thinking I hold onto the rear rotors I got from Rockauto and install them when I need to. Does this sound like a good plan or should I simply go ahead and also install the rear rotors?

 

An independent mechanic I know has told me that he will charge me $200.00 to do the job with my parts. I'm thinking to have him install front and rear pads and just the front rotors. I'm thinking I hold onto the rear rotors I got from Rockauto and install them when I need to. Does this sound like a good plan or should I simply go ahead and also install the rear rotors?

2021-22 inflation is very high in my state so mechanics have doubled hourly rates here. Depending where you are located $200 seems like a good deal if he is a good mechanic.

I would have him install new pads and rotors all around. Then you don't have to think about brakes for a while.

Also, the brake fluid needs to be replaced from time to time. Use Toyota fluid and do that if it hasn't been done recently.

 

You already got them, so do it. Just do them all at once and don't look back for 100,000 miles.

 

If you received the parts mentioned in post 32, then I'd say those are better than the "Brakes Forever" stuff which I think is just a store branded product. You can also buy Duralast brake parts and get replacements forever, but I never do anything like that.

If you have the Akebono ASP pads and Centric rotors, see if you have a friend who does good work and offer $100 to swap them in. Or haggle with that mechanic you know and bring it closer to $100 if you can (except inflation is hitting everything nowadays!)

I would install all the parts you have like Vangm25 said, and "reset the clock" that way.

One thing is to check that the caliper anchor pins move freely. Hopefully someone didn't use a petroleum based grease on there before to cause the rubber to swell and seize the pins (if so you need all new rubber parts).

If any brake lube is needed, only use a JIS K2228 approved grease, such as CRC Silaramic. Don't use Permatex green or purple greases.

 

f any brake lube is needed, only use a JIS K2228 approved grease, such as CRC Silaramic. Don't use Permatex green or purple greases.

What is wrong with Permatex purple ceramic grease compound other than you are not suppose to get it on rubber parts?
I used it on last couple of projects but do not have long term history.

 

Looks like you got great parts. Certainly install all of them at once! Some say if you keep rotors, they should be resurfaced, which costs some. Like the poster above wrote, replace all of them and you're set for a long time. You're also paying for the labor. The mechanic will charge you the same whether you replace the rear rotors or not since it's just one extra small step for him.

Best wishes!