slider block 16385-20010
flange bolt 90080-10223
adjusting bolt 90080-11617

The last one not 100% sure but it's the only bolt in that area that looks correct. If you can't drill that out and chase the threads yourself then sure take it to machinist depending on cost. You could also try heating the bolt with a torch (carefully).

 

Cool. Thanks. I'll call my toyota dealer tomorrow and see if they have them.

 

also, cudn't hurt to put some pb blaster in there while it's hot. it'll seep into the threads and it's done wonders for me for sure. ymmv.
tony

 

Yup. Did that. Lots of it.

 

I had to replace this on my Solara too as it was badly rusted. I ended up getting the bolts and block from the junkyard for next to nothing. I recall the 4 cylinder block is a bit longer (but might work) than the V6.

You might want to put some anti-seize on the new bolts before you thread them into the block.

 

Good idea on the anti seize. I adjusted the belt a couple of years ago and it was totally fine. Got really rusty in the last two years.

I was prepared to go to the junkyard, but all three parts only cost 11 bucks at the dealership next to my house, so I'll just get it there.

I'm doing this as part of my timing belt/cam/crank seal replacement. I was inspired to do it myself by your very helpful video on the subject. So, for that, thanks!

 

Funny enough, mine also broke when I tried to remove my alternator yesterday, but since I'm removing my compressor as my AC hasn't worked in years and I have no plans to fix it, it is not required due to the lower tension and shorter belt, only needs the lock bolt.
Should have used my impact driver instead.

The belt will only run from the crankshaft to the alternator.

For references: Pivot bolt 38 ft/lb, adjusting and lock bolt: 13 ft/lb
w/AC
New belt (<5mins) 165 ± 25 lb/ft
Used belt (+5mins) 110 ± 10 lb/ft

w/o AC
New belt : 125 ± 25 lb/ft
Used belt : 95 ± 20 lb/ft

 

Depends on your location but the dealer probably won't have the parts the dealer will be able to tell you how long to ship.

 

Sorry to dig up an old thread but a previous owner of my car must have encountered the same experience of breaking the adjusting bolt and block. The individual parts from Toyota now total $40. Would the part set below be what I am looking for? Shows to be Dorman 917-148

http://www.partsgeek.com/xqspwv8-to...k+ShoppingCom&fp=pp&utm_term=Toyota+Drive+Belt+Idler+Pulley+Adjustment+Bolt+Kit

 

Would the part set below be what I am looking for?

Looks good to me. What's the risk for $9. If you could find the bolt lengths that would help. Contact Dorman or measure when you pick the part up.

 

Some fun facts about this tensioner/block/bolt setup:

1) The tensioner is just there to be a convenient way to set tension on the belt... it is NOT NECESSARY to KEEP tension on the alternator belt. Simply leverage a prybar on the alternator until you get the right tension then stick a bolt & washer in the upper hole of the alternator the bracket... you can put a lockwasher and a nut on the back end for good measure too if you want.

2) This part is the perfect part to find at a junkyard

 

Mine currently has a bolt, nut, washer and lock washer on it but with the AC compressor just below the alternator and barely any room anywhere else, the only option I had was to use a pry bar in the opening/slot on top where the top bolt is. This is not ideal and I would like to restore it back to the way it was. I know I could go to a junkyard to find this but by the time I drive to the closest one which is 30 minutes away, get it off, probably pay $5, and drive home 30 minutes, it would just be easier to buy it new.

 

Rock Auto had it for cheaper. Got it for $9.12 shipped. I will measure the bolt size and thread pitch once I have it.

 

My apologies for the massive delay in providing a response. The Thanksgiving holiday and some Christmas travel has made time fly by. For those that wanted to know more about the Dorman bolt kit, I have provided the information below. If you are just needing to replace the long bolt then buying a new one by itself is probably cheaper but at less than $10 for the whole kit, it may not be a bad idea to start fresh with everything. Both bolts are M8X1.25 with a 12mm bolt cap. Their respective lengths are show below. I plan to install everything tomorrow or Monday and will post up my results.

 

Is the block made out of aluminum? If so, I would put in some anti seize on those bolts lol

 

The block should be steel. Never seize on both fasteners is a must. The locking bolt can corrode into the aluminum body of the alternator, and the adjusting bolt will seize from rust.

I have had some so bad I had to use a torch to remove the bolt from the block. Sometimes that was after snapping the head off.

-SP

 

The block is made of steel. As already indicated, using a generous amount of anti-seize is a must as the steel appears to be raw and not zinc coated or anything.

 

Yep, that was my mistake, I should have used an impact driver to remove it, by just using a wrench, I snapped one of the bolt in the block lol

 

I got the new parts installed earlier this evening and provided the pictures below. I ended up having to use a longer alternator bolt than what came in the kit. I found one in my collection that was 70mm long, still had M8 X 1.25 threads and a 12mm head. I used some washers and nuts I had in my vast collection of hardware to secure everything. I did a mock up first to ensure everything was going to work as expected. Once done I applied a generous amount of silver anti-seize to everything and installed it. No one should have to or should ever apply the strength of an impact to this hardware. You will only break it faster. Anti-seize should help a lot but here in central Texas we do not have to worry about any snow or salt, just high amounts of humidity year round. Let me know if you have any questions and I will try my best to address them.

 

In my case, I broke the alternator lock bolt when changing the alternator (serpentine) belt on my 2003 Sienna van. The remaining stud is seized in the alternator and extends into the curved slot of the adjuster bracket. Tried to remove the alternator but could not easily remove it due to the remaining stud being in the slot. Thought the van was dead in the water and heading for an expensive repair. Someone advised in Toyota Nation that the tensioner and lock bolts are not needed to hold the alternator in place and that a properly tightened pivot bolt will do the job alone (like on old vehicles). As advised, we took a steel pipe (as I did not have a long pry bar) and lifted the alternator to put the correct amount of tension on the new serpentine belt. Tightened the pivot bolt to 41 ft-lbs. My son says I went further than that as he observed I had tightened a bit more past the click sound of the torque wrench. Since the top of the lock bolt had fallen off, I removed tension bolt and metal block. The remaining stud had two threads extending past the adjuster bracket and for good measure installed a flat nut and was careful not to over tighten that. The belt is tight, hard to turn beyond 45 degrees. Took it out for a highway drive to a town half an hour away and so far the serpentine belt is holding well. If I can find someone who can drill out the lock nut stud without removing the alternator, I will simply install a bolt with lock nut/washer to further secure the alternator and rely on using a ply pry bar to lift the alternator for belt tension. If I ever have to replace the alternator, will use the pry bar method to tension the belt and install a bolt and lock washer instead of the lock bolt and tension bolt combination.

 

same issue and mechanic wants $350 to remove alternator to drill out lock bolt that broke off. any issue since and what where did the pivot bolt screw through to keep tension?
THanks!