First things first, check the battery charge and the connection cables for looseness or corrosion. Sometimes, batteries get weak enough to still power the electronics, but not start the car. You could try a jumpstart with a jumpstarter tool (the better option), or a larger vehicle.
If the battery looks good, or the jumpstart doesn't solve the problem, you might want to look into the alternator or starter potentially being the issue.

 

Jumpstart it.

 

You can also try holding the brakes on and putting it in Neutral. Just in case the safety switch isn't registering it in park.

When you say no dim lights, are you talking about the interior instrument lights? Try turning on the headlamps and see if they go dim/out while trying to start. They may tell more than interior lights. They should dim slightly as the starter turns the engine. If they go very dim or out completely you may have a bad/dead battery or a faulty connection.

 

No I meant the headlights it seems like the battery is fine.

 

Seems fine does not mean anything. Give it a jump start and go from there.

 

Humming might be the fuel pump. If everything is working but it won't crank (check engine light comes on, as it should when the engine is off but the key is in run position, everything else), then I would think starter. Maybe a wire broke going to the starter... but more likely the starter just suddenly quit.

I suppose there could be a relay to something that would also do this, like to the ECU, but then you wouldn't have dash lights.

Not sure I would jump just yet, I'd check voltage first, then check under (non) cranking to see if it stays high. If it stays above 12V then the battery isn't the issue.

 

The easiest thing to do is to attempt a jump start assuming you gave jumper cables, jumper pack, or a mini jumper pack. After that is when you start diagnosing.

 

Checked the battery at autozone they said it was still good I replaced the starter just now and it’s still doing the same thing.

 

Before getting your hands dirty, do like the other guy said- try stating in neutral instead of park. If that works, the neutral safety switch could be bad. Another suspect could be the brake safety switch, if it gets stuck. Press the brake pedal a couple of times to test that. Next, start getting dirty; Rap sharply on the starter, then try the key again. A stuck solenoid or nearly worn-out brushes can be jarred loose when you do that. If none of that does the trick, try the battery terminals for tightness. You should not be able to twist them if they're tight enough. Now you have crud on your hands. Try the key one more time. No joy? Jump start and have the battery tested at a car part store. They'll test it free. If the battery is lower than 9 volts, you need to shop for a new one. The same battery for $100 at Auto Zone costed me $50 at Walmart, but it seems prices are going up with the stock market these days. They'd love to sell you a $300 Optima, but lets hope you're a lucky fella and only have loose terminals.

 

$122 is pretty cheap.

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I had to change one on an '86 Corolla and OEM was $146.00. I went to the salvage yard and got a good one for $12.. I cleaned it good and swapped it in- a real knuckle buster, but cheaper than $122+ an hour labor. I'd rather spend $122 on a steak dinner for my family.

It would be nice if the problem was just a fuse or the battery fusible link. In my town a dollar is only worth 1/800,000 of a house.

 

I got the car started earlier and it started without hesitation after the starter was changed out but now it has low rpms around 400-500 when in gear or stopped at a light if I don’t rev it up the car will shut off.

 

Please buy a cheap OBD2 code scanner to cut the guesswork. Mine cost me less than $20 and is a priceless tool for headscratchers like this. Even if you spend $50 for a scanner with many advanced features, that's still a great investment.