I'm not an expert by any means but you could try taking the cap off (when it's cold) and leaving it off while it warms up. Monitor the level of course and check your temp gauge as your doing this

 

Use a turkey baster from the dollar store to remove the excess coolant from the radiator and squeeze the lower radiator hose.

Or, drain from the petcock. The issue with this is that you may have to add more coolant with this method.

 

Def sounds like air in the system. Curious if they also used the Correct (red/pink) coolant? Or just threw some good ol green in there.

 

They used zerex for Asian makes. I told them to. That's what was already in the car and I saw the bottle they topped my car up with post test drive.

 

Well, you can't really have excess coolant in radiator, as it will be pushed out into expansion canister.
That your system is not properly purged, is a given. Unless you have stuck t-stat or head issues.
Do you have ramps? Or, incline anywhere close and handy?
Open heater to full heat.
Open radiator cap and have coolant handy.
Get vehicle on ramps or so that nose it higher than rear, for natural air flow up the hill, so to speak.
Start engine.
It should spill some coolant out, then level will drop down, then slowly start coming up as it warms up. Worry not, just monitor engine temp. At some point it should start overflowing again then, as t-stat should open, will drop down, as coolant goes into heater core and rest of the system.
Add coolant to top radiator and cap it. Make sure you cap it all the way, what is twist/press down and twist more.
Add coolant to proper mark in expansion canister.
That should be it.
If coolant keeps spilling out and temp goes into danger zone, your t-stat is stuck and coolant is being forced out.
If you start seeing like beer foam in coolant, you have blown head gasket.
Let engine cool completely, open cap, add coolant as needed to rad.

 

They overfilled the overflow tank. That's what they claim spilled out coolant. Maybe boilover was the wrong word?

 

Sounds like either they were lazy in bleeding air or there is other issues with your cooling system. Here is my procedure for bleeding air.
Coolant Bleeding Procedure

• Get a coolant funnel
• Attach funnel to radiator
• Fill funnel til half-full
• ALL Temperature controls OFF
• Start vehicle in PARK
• Add coolant as needed
• Wait
• Add coolant as needed
• Wait
• Place an object on the accelerator and let it rev up til 2000ish RPM to give the engine some load
• Add coolant as needed
• Wait
• Add coolant as needed
• Wait
• Add coolant as needed
• Wait til radiator fan turns on
• Remove object from accelerator pedal
• Wait longer til radiator fan turns on
• Wait longer
• Done!
• Wait longer
• NO MORE BUBBLES!!!
• Done!

 

Zerex is a good coolant, I use it myself. So the problem isn’t there. It’s premixed so they didn’t add water, right? Because that will lower the boiling point.

Also with a new rad check the radiator cap. If all else is done right that might be the problem. The old gasket might not have sealed well on the new rad. Just get a new cap.

Also call parts stores and see if they carry the Lisle fill funnel. Use it to burp.

When everything was working before I don’t see other things going bad (thermostat, head gasket). I’d learn to replace the rad myself for next time.

btw see if the parts store has a cooling system pressure tester on free loaner.It might be a bad new rad.

 

New radiator came with cap so doubt it's the issue.

I would be surprised if the head gasket sprung a leak like some have suggested as that doesn't sound like a common issue on these cars.

Everything was running fine before the leak happened and I got the radiator replaced so unless an air pocket or the pressure test on the old radiator killed anything it shouldn't be an issue of something else being broken.

 

Don’t assume new parts are good, especially if it’s not a Denso or TYC radiator (check rock auto), and they don’t give you free caps.

in that case do a pressure test. You should see the leak. Also members highly recommend the Lisle funnel. Amazon will be much cheaper but takes time.

 

Well, I've got a car to borrow for.worl Monday and will have my wife take this thing back to the shop for a burp rather than shell out $20 for a jug of coolant. Plus it's frigging cold out to be out burping it myself.

Besides this screw up everybody in my small town trusts this shop and they are said to take care of you and be upfront and honest, and my Mother knows the young mechanic who screwed up my car and his parents LOL!

My question now is, will the car having driven about 25 miles (including drive back to shop) without having been properly burped have already doomed my water pump seal or other components, or will I hopefully be fine if I get it burped?

 

Make sure the fluid level is good before you drive it to the shop. Have the shop perform a heat cycle there and then you should be good to go. Damage might have occurred if the engine was overheated before you changed the rad. The shop should be able to remedy this quickly...

 

Never overheated or went over operating temp on the gauge.

My dad was claiming that an air pocket could get caught in the water pump, super-heat near the seal, and burn a hole through the water pump seal. Mainly worried that may have already started or something crazy like that.

Maybe he's nuts lol. He doesn't know Toyotas at all, just older GM cars. Just covering my bases.

 

As far as you didn't overheat, you should be fine.

 

It's highly probable that the hoses are not pressurizing as it should. It's a small chance, but anything is possible at this point. You can also use the hose under the radiator cap to decrease the level inside the radiator. The level should be right at or below the lip inside the cap.

 

Your dad has a valid point, but if it’s freezing cold and the system was full I think the pump should be ok.

I prefer the older 5-yr/60k mike timing belt/water pump replacement schedule, so that’s a none-issue for me. As a minor overheat shouldn’t kill the seal that easily.

get the shop to do a pressure test, on the system AND on the cap. This only leaves one thing - the new cap on the system untested.

 

So what all do I need to have the shop do to remedy the situation?

Sounds like they should burp it, pressure test the system and cap, maybe clean up the coolant mess so future leaks can be traced better?

Someone mentioned having them do a "heat cycle"? Could someone refresh my memory on what that is?

 

Heat cycle is needed for the thermostat to open. This way the cooling system is pressurized.

 

So essentially get the car up to temp?

 

Yes

 

Yes, for a complete test the shop can run the engine at 2000 rpms until the cooling fans come on TWICE.

Just to clarify, when they put the pressure tester (if they don't have it, the local parts store may have it on the free loaner list. Just need the correct adapters, BOTH for the radiator and the cap.)

Cooling system pressure tester:

Radiator Pressure Tester Kit

Amazing deals on this Radiator Pressure Tester Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

They can test the radiator and it should have no leaks. They can test the cap, and it should hold pressure up to 13 lbs and then relief above that. However, what they can't test with the tool is how well the new cap seals to the new radiator. (If the cap has an el cheapo hanging plastic vaccum valve, my guess is they just turn the cap upside down to pressure check? Dunno).

Either they ordered the cap with the radiator, or they used some fleaBay brand that comes with a free cap, because the good brands AFAIK don't give you free caps. (not that it's expensive, I use Stant for a few bucks each without problems, although some shun it)

 

Unsure were they got it. Think a local parts store like O'Reilly or Napa or something as they had the part in stock somewhere in our smallish town and got it within an hour of diagnosis then swapped out the radiator the same day.

 

Let's not overthink this. Properly fill your coolant reservoir til max then drive normally for a few days with a bottle of coolant in the trunk just in case. Rinse and/or dry any excess fluid. The reservoir "doesn't do anything" anyway depending on the vehicle. What really matters is that the radiator is filled and bled but lets ignore that for now.

I feel that lately there might be a lot of confusion on low coolant because a low reservoir is not always a good indicator of how much coolant you have depending on the vehicle. Once again, lets not over think this. Make sure your coolant reservoir is filled properly and see what happens.

404 Error

2AZ-FE

 

^ how come your coolant is not clear in the radiator. I've always been able to see the cooling fins.

Of course, you'd think a shop knows how to swap out a radiator. That's one of the easiest jobs.

 

^ how come your coolant is not clear in the radiator. I've always been able to see the cooling fins.

Of course, you'd think a shop knows how to swap out a radiator. That's one of the easiest jobs.

I've had no cooling issues and I don't have a tester. In addition, the radiator cap/housing extends a bit from the actual radiator itself. (mine is from 1-800-Radiator (maybe?)) Otherwise like I said earlier, I think a lot of it is over thinking.

More Information for DENSO 2213102

 

Right, this model radiator you can't see it directly. What I meant was at least you can see the bottom at that location.

 

Do you think the cloudiness is caused by mixing of different, incompatible coolants and possibly tap water?

 

I have this tool because of that Ford/Mazda I was working on. Man, this tool is AWESOME. I've never needed it for the Corolla, but since the DS is having a possible trapped air issue, his shop could try using this. It works great:

Amazon.com: Engine Cooling System Vacuum Purge & Refill Kit Set Universal Pro Tools: Automotive

Buy Engine Cooling System Vacuum Purge & Refill Kit Set Universal Pro Tools: Tool Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

I have a similar tool, and it's all I use to fill cooling systems. For those with a decent air compressor to pull a venturi vacuum, yeah this tool is a dream and fast too. Most small- mid-size cars' cooling systems aren't demanding at all and air doesn't trap in them, especially if OEM thermostats are used that have jiggle pins.

(That's why I was primarily focused on pressure testing OP's system. Hard to think air getting trapped here but rule nothing out).

 

Not sure what it is, but it's probably some sort of particulates in the fluid. I mean pasta water you got wheat flour.

I've seen it with non-2EHA OAT in iron block and I assumed it was corrosion. These engines (2AZ) are all-aluminum, so not sure.

Do you think the cloudiness is caused by mixing of different, incompatible coolants and possibly tap water?

 

Your dad has a valid point, but if it’s freezing cold and the system was full I think the pump should be ok.

I prefer the older 5-yr/60k mike timing belt/water pump replacement schedule, so that’s a none-issue for me. As a minor overheat shouldn’t kill the seal that easily.

get the shop to do a pressure test, on the system AND on the cap. This only leaves one thing - the new cap on the system untested.

I recall from years back that you would fill the radiator up to the top run the vehicle with the cap Off and heat on high until the thermostat opens and then the coolant would go down substantially and you would just fill it back to the top again and were good not really sure what your mechanic did but something sounds sketchy.

 

I can't remember why but either one of my instructors or my uncle (my shop manager) told me to not use heat when bleeding air. Just fill the funnel, start the car, wait, fill the funnel, give the car some load, wait, wait til the fan kicks in as that would be around when the thermostat opens up. Then maybe afterwards you can use heat but I really can't remember. When I busted my radiator in my Camry I utilized my method and had no issues.

 

When I bled my cooling system before this past summer, I used the DIY guide stickied here and used the turkey baster to suck up the coolant that would rise to the top of the radiator. Worked like a charm and all it cost was a trip to the dollar tree and gas. LOL

 

In the beginning, the radiator burst or cracked and blew out coolant. There's the potential for really ugly aftermath. Perhaps the overheating afterward damaged the headgasket, allowing engine compression to overpressurize the cooling system . If the headgasket failed first, then blew up the radiator, that excess pressure may still be there. The mechanics can crank the engine with the ignition fuse removed and watch for bubbles in the new radiator indicating compression getting into it. I hope I'm wrong, because a new head gasket will run you about $1500, if the head is not cracked or warped.

I went down that road, because I have not ever seen a Toyota radiator crack or burst, and I'm talking from 1986 to the present. I did see that happen in a Mitsubishi, and years ago the Mazda Protege had a recall for bursting their radiators. Good luck.