Sorry I didnt take any pics when I changed mine. Its pretty obvious where it bolts into the block by the oil dipstick tube. The connector is on the bottom of the intake manifold. My thread about it also confirms the resistance value. I dont have my book nearby or I would add it in.

-SP

 

Thanks buddy, there's a start for more descriptive location points.

 

If you go look at colej2016's thread a few pictures up from the bottom hes working on his timing belt tensioner. You can see the sensor in one of the pictures. It's on the back side of the engine or left side of the picture.

 

I appreciate all of the help that those of you who provided some information lended me. I followed the electrical connector down to the back of the crankshaft pulley and was able to easily remove the sensor once I had removed the plastic cover from the passenger side behind the wheel.

Replaced the fried sensor with the new one and everything is firing as it should now and running smoothly. Odo is at 269963 with a fresh new oil change as well, also converted the motor oil to synthetic and expect some joy out of this vehicle as well as some reliability.

You may close this thread when you see it, thanks!

 

Changing to a synthetic oil at this late date is a mistake. Stick with regular oil.

-SP

 

Eh if it doesn't leak or burn too fast, synthetic is an improvement.

 

269k is pretty substantial though so I'm expecting some measurable oil consumption from this switch. If nothing else monitor the dip stick closely and frequently. If it's too dramatic you could always switch back.

 

I switched to 0-W20 at about 268k. No more burning than it was already doing (I think old leaky valve seals) and NO leakage. YMMV

 

Nice - yeah I recall you were posting about your 0w20 switch. At 140k I have no measurable consumption with conventional 5w30 or semi synthetic (MaxLife) 5w30. When I switch to synthetic (MaxLife) 5w30 I burn about 0.2 quarts per 1000 miles. That goes away when I switch back to semi synthetic.

I have replaced front crankshaft seal, camshaft seal, spark plug tube gaskets, valve cover gasket, PCV valve grommet, distributor sensor o-ring... so none of those areas leak even with synthetic. I have a tiny weep from the rear crank seal and the burn I experience when using synthetic is likely from leaky valve seals as well.

As they say "Individual results may vary". No harm in trying synthetic (I run full synthetic in the winter despite the slight consumption) but be prepared to monitor closely, address leaks, and/or go back to conventional. A good high mileage full synthetic might be a nice compromise if regular full synthetic gets consumed.

 

With that much mileage, I'd also be watching out for worn rod-bearings. Depends a lot on previous maintenance and oil; I see A LOT of Corollas for sale in the 250k-mile range with rod-knock for $500 "mechanics specials". It first starts with a slight shimmy/shake at 3500-4000rpms where the 2nd-order harmonics are greatest. If you catch it then and replace rod-bearings (3-4hrs), then your engine's good for another 250k-miles. By the time you hear actual rod-knock, it may be too late. The rings seems to last forever so the only other thing is valve-stem seals.

 

The rings seems to last forever

Haha, thats because they are stuck to the ring lands and not even contacting the cylinder.

Well thats what I found in my engine anyway.

-SP

 

I'll definitely keep an eye out with synthetic, like you all have mentioned if too much consumption it's simple enough to convert it back. And thanks for the tip on the rod-knock, may come in handy as well.