[Pete Suhman]

The best indicator, for someone who loses a lot of oil, is a mechanical gauge, or probably better, a good electronic one. Mount it where you can easily see it in your peripheral vision, so you don't have to look away to focus on it.
Then drive the car, and learn where the needle always points, during various RPMs. And then keep enough eye on it to be able to spot the needle dropping during cornering or braking, and you will minimize damage.
And if you want, you can clock the gauge so that the needle is pointing at 12:00, (or whatever orientation you feel is best) when it is in the middle of it's normal sweep, or where ever it points most often.
Some racers set up their dashes so that the gauge needles are all pointing straight up at 12:00, during normal operating conditions. That makes it easier to spot an anomaly.

Of course the best way is to fix the oil loss, but that's not always feasible for many, if not most, folks.

 

[zythr]

Let me first say that - Honestly, I at first thought that well, if the oil light isnt coming on, everythings good. If i'd see it come on for a second, I'd put atleast a quart in it. As long as that light aint coming on, i'm in the clear. And thats totally the wrong way to look at it, lol.

In short, the car needs some attention. And has for a while. I've just been putting it off. Cuz its my car. I could easily go drop 5 to 7 HUNDRED dollars in repairs / maintenance - vast majority being general maintenance, timing belt and water pump, tensioner, pulleys, bearings, wheel bearings, an alignment, brakes and pads and rotors and calipers, i could go on - it doesnt "need" all these things, Its just things that Idk when they were last replaced, So I figure I best get at them. But, hard with no money.

And yes you are correct in saying that I asked my question, and people answered it. I should've clarified immediately however that the responses I'm looking for arent just "Yeah, its jacked up." I'm mainly looking for the ones that are actually somewhat helpful - "Yeah its jacked up, and heres why - and what to do to fix it yourself!"

I feel that if an individual is resourceful enough, and the auto-didactic type, and mechanically inclined, he will discover this site. I would also imagine that this person would like to keep his own car in decent shape, and what cheaper and more reliable way than to do it yourself? Basically what I'm saying is, I'd imagine most people on here are smart enough to think "Well, maybe I could fix this, maybe i dont Have to just say the whole car is now screwed and junk it, or hopelessly try and sell it to somebody that, ofcourse, will inevitably think that its worth nothing because the engines kaput." I imagine that most people on this site do their own car work. Most people dont have the money, maybe not even the time, to try and go out and sell their current car, in exchange for a new/used car.

To me, it makes no sense that a person would watch my engine noise video and go "Yes, your engine is bad, get a new car / engine." (and to split hairs, Thats not even answering the question i asked. I asked if it was damaged. I know it isnt "bad". Otherwise I wouldntve posted. If id've felt there was nothing i could myself to fix this, I wouldntve asked the question. You know what i mean?) What are you doing on here if thats the case? To me thats the kindof person that doesnt do diy, doesnt do their own car work, happily pays 10 times what they need to pay a mechanic for a job, happy to pay 50 dollars for oil changes every 3 months, the lot. Thats the kindof person that hears a sound like that, and gets scared so easily, or intimidated so quickly into thinking that their best alternative is to just get a different car altogether. Seems very far from what I would consider the logical, and easier-on-your-wallet approach. (while still being thorough and making sure the job is done correctly, as you do in DIY.)

Good luck to you. I hope the fix is not too involved or expensive.

 

[crowenator]

Hey guys, what do yall think of this -

I'm kinda starting the think this is an engine/trans mount problem. The car has rapdily become really hard to shift into gear, the cmc and slave are fresh, not leaking, not crossthreaded, reservoirs are topped up, etc, clutch is adjusted - and all the sudden its real hard to get into gear. As I said, the sound goes away after about 2000 rpm, by the time youre at 3 its gone completely. I've also noticed that if i rev the engine when im driving it around (before i heard this sound develop, i mean - it was easier to shift as well, back then - but still had its moments.) if i rev the engine as im trying to push it into gear, itll usually pop right in, it always helps. And it could just be me, but it seems easier to shift if youre past where the noise goes away. But i spend most of my time in the rpm range where the noise if occuring, so it would change my driving style.

I'm gunna jack the engine up as was suggested, and see if the sounds go away / if it gets easier to shift, lol. Will post back when I do. Just throwing this out there, tell me what you guys think.

And i know i said it already, but the only symptoms im having besides the noise itself, is having trouble going into gear. the engine doesnt idle rough, run rough, smoke, or anything. Still drives out great. The noise is the only symptom. If it wasnt making the noise, i wouldve never thought it was engine related and id've kept driving it until the trans mount failed. Never woulda made this post, lol

 

[DannoXYZ]

Not sure if mounts would cause difficult shifting. That's usually an internal issue with trans caused by mis-adjusted cable or clutch-pedal.

 

[crowenator]

I've adjusted the clutch days ago to where i wanted it to be to function properly. Was a good few days of smooth shifting and niceness before it quickly went back downhill for the clutch / trans lol. But the adjustment is still the exact same. So i must either have a leak in a line somewhere, or its a trans mount, imo. And after i bought the car, i had my front passengers side engine mount replaced. and it made it better, but, as everyone knows, you're much better off replacing them all at once. My engine quakes around QUITE a bit whenever you manage to get it into reverse. The weakness was moved and whatever mounts i havent replaced, theyve gotten worse, ofcourse one in particular will be worse than all the others by this rate, due to being replaced at different times. Gunna get a jack and jack up my engine today if I can get ahold of my brother

 

[Haloruler64]

Trans mount doesn't affect shifting. If it's damaged, it'll just make the engine and trans sag to the side. Rear mount would be the closest mount to affecting shifting, and it's also the one that takes the most abuse.

 

[aaronvincent]

I apologize for offending you Apples

I thought this was some kind of insult until I remembered that he was referring to Apples555 haha. I was like "never heard that one before" lol

 

[crowenator]

Case closed!

Never seen two bolts work so much magic in my life.

Went over to my brothers today, he checked it out a bit. When I installed my master cylinder, i noticed that the last person to install a replacement one did not install the upper (harder to get to) nut. just wasnt there when i went to remove it. So, when I put mine in, I had a shitload of trouble trying to get in back in, and just couldnt, (was fed up for the day lol) and said screw it, gunna drive it til I'm proven wrong. Which happened a few short days later lol but anyways. Long story short -

My brother noted today that the "rattle" or "vibration" what have you was coming from the power steering pump area. In a power steering line, with a big brass fitting, you could feel the "knock" occuring. It was absorbing some vibration. If he lifted up on the line, the clicking and stuff that i was describing would vanish. (completely, no matter what rpm.) So i was gobsmacked. Couldnt believe it. So i went over to his garage.

My brother spotted 1 bolt in the power steering pump (3 total), that had walked its way out a good 3 inches or more, easy. Practically hanging on its end. Put it back in after some work (advises torquing it from the BOTTOM, due to the flanges and stuff, which didnt seem straight, the bolt didnt wanna go in - and its a long one. So he pushed up on the pump from below and got the bolt through. Returning to the cmc, he also beat the master cylinder into place and installed the second bolt. And holy fuck what a new clutch experience. It only took about a quarter to a third of the pedal throw to shift SMOOTH. into reverse and all. So installer error, duh.

But in terms of all the "engine noises" I was convinced were rod bearing or something critical, as well as everyone else - this case just goes to show you never wanna say die before you know whats really going on in there.

Also, before he reapired, or even noticed the bolt in the power steering pump, the sound has practically vanished (there when it was cold, went away when at operating temp - I put in a half quart of marvel mystery oil. Maybe that helped? Must have, imo.), but regardless, he put the bolt back in and when we fired it up, it was making some strange sortof whirring mechanical buzzing sound, which was the power steering pump reapplying its proper tension on the belts, and getting a grip on the fact its actually doing its job now. It persisted for a moment, and raised in relation to engine rpm, and turning ofcourse, but as soon as we backed it out of his garage, it vanished entirely. Engine is now running smooth, no smoking, no knocking, etc. Couldnt be happier, really glad to have my car back ^^!! Shifts like a dream, too.

Thanks for your help, and goodnite, folks!

 

[Pete Suhman]

Haha, that's awesome. I already told my alternator failure noise story, but my car also has another quirk like this:

A couple of times, I heard a bad noise which sounded for all the world like my AC compressor, or some other belt-driven accessory, getting ready to come apart, but the noise would go away, too. I finally determined that it's the front license plate vibrating against the bumper or its bolts or whatever. When I touch the plate, the noise stops!

 

[Haloruler64]

I'm glad you got it fixed! Keep an eye on oil consumption, even if it's not making noise, low oil causes accelerated wear. Make sure not to let it go dry again, and good luck!

 

[crowenator]

Thanks guys. We spotted lots of stuff while we were under the car, lol! Its advised to get under your car and check it out, not just from above!
The oil pan (somebody has removed it before or something) leaks like a siv. totally ridiculous. I can see the oil i put in just a few days ago, all nice and clean looking, collected on the bolt tips and all kinds of stuff all over the oil pan - its crazy, leaks every time i drive it for sure. I was wondering why my car needed about a quart every few hundred miles, even though it hardly ever smoking to begin with - and why it still ran so good but "burned" so much oil. Cuz it was just leaking out in reality! lol. But i'll fix it soon. thx again guys

 

[Pete Suhman]

And this validates my comment that the noise sounded out of sync with the engine. Jus' gloatin'... When the camera was inside the car between :15 and :30, you can kind of hear that it's not quite spot-on to the revs.

And when you set the camera down to open the hood, it looks like there is a green pepper growing there, between :39 and :45?

What's up with the vitamin/supplement bottle in place of the Helmholtz resonator?

 

[deeder7001]

Thanks guys. We spotted lots of stuff while we were under the car, lol! Its advised to get under your car and check it out, not just from above!
The oil pan (somebody has removed it before or something) leaks like a siv. totally ridiculous. I can see the oil i put in just a few days ago, all nice and clean looking, collected on the bolt tips and all kinds of stuff all over the oil pan - its crazy, leaks every time i drive it for sure. I was wondering why my car needed about a quart every few hundred miles, even though it hardly ever smoking to begin with - and why it still ran so good but "burned" so much oil. Cuz it was just leaking out in reality! lol. But i'll fix it soon. thx again guys

Lol I've had a leaky drain plug for close to a year I think. Thanks to me not changing the crush washer like I should. The old one was hard like plastic. Oops...

 

[Haloruler64]

The brand new ones are hard plastic too still good idea to change it.

 

[Pete Suhman]

I don't think my car has one, but I don't think it leaks from there either.

 

[colej2016]

4AFE's/7AFE's are tough puppies, they won't go down without a fight that's for sure! :laugh:

I feel like so many of those 7th gen Corolla's at junkyards (besides the ones that took heavy impacts) still had life left if they were just given a little love.

 

[deeder7001]

The brand new ones are hard plastic too still good idea to change it.

The new one I got felt MUCH softer. Maybe less crushed??.... Lol I've had this problem before where the shop didn't replace that washer and oil would drip onto the driveway. This was about 3 years ago. That's also the last time that washer was changed.

 

[Haloruler64]

I don't really understand why it needs to be changed. My old ones and new ones always look identical. No wear. I change them anyway, they're like 20 cents, but I don't get the premise.

 

[deeder7001]

I got mine for free at the dealership down the street(closer to me than Autozone). Lol The parts guy just handed me the thing and said he had it covered. "They're less than a buck each". I probably should have taken a pic of it before I installed it.

 

[crowenator]

And this validates my comment that the noise sounded out of sync with the engine. Jus' gloatin'... When the camera was inside the car between :15 and :30, you can kind of hear that it's not quite spot-on to the revs.

And when you set the camera down to open the hood, it looks like there is a green pepper growing there, between :39 and :45?

What's up with the vitamin/supplement bottle in place of the Helmholtz resonator?

Lmfao xD - the Green pepper is a jalapeno, i grew some jalapenos in the backyard last year, no idea how one ended up right there, lols. And the tylenol bottle? Well, the way the little intake air tube is made it had a little black box there before, which was just an empty chamber, and a dead end. saw no point in it being there, thought itd help improve airflow if i plugged it somehow. and lo and behold, the tylenol bottle fit perfectly xD