I actually have the same issue with mine. I think I remember if switching the outermost wires alternately fixes it but I have yet to try.

I don't see a need for highbeams much with LEDs, so I never bothered to fix it, but I'd like to. I know on 3 sided led like mine 2 are lit for lo''s then all 3 for the hibeams.

You can Google the issue for 80s Toyota and you'd likely find the fix. I'm going to try just plugging it in upside down.

 

I had to add a 50 ohm 50 watt resistor to get the high beam to work in my '87 it goes between the common and high beam signal, well I'm assuming as I got to the correct wires by trial and error.

This is the exact one I used
https://www.ebay.com/itm/382160412385

 

The fix depends on how the LEDs are wired internally. They must be compatible with a common-positive headlight system. The high-beam indicator is powered through the low-beam filament, so it may or may not work without a load resistor installed, like 71Corolla mentioned.

-Charlie

 

I bought the resistors and have Hi/Lo now, Hi is extremely bright which is actually handy for me as I work outside at night time.

I also bought a couple more and plan to change my brakelights and turn signals to LED as well as soon as I buy the bulbs.

 

What headlight LEDs do you have specifically? The ones are have are nice for low beam high beam not so much there is little change. BTW you only need one resistor.

 

I wasn't sure exactly where in line to put it so I could use just one so they both come off the plugs on each light, that won't be an issue right? They work fine.

I have these, I'm thoroughly impressed, still have 3 year warranty left. They were around 40$ or so.

Mine light 2 led's out of 3 on lo, and all 3 on high, the real trick is positioning them in the housing to get the real effect of seeing farther when you flip the brights. Mine are triangle shaped, 1 led per side. With that in mind I put it in, in a sort of upside down triangle configuration.

___
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The asterisks indicate what sides are lit on lo, when I turn on hibeams the top part lights up and the upper light spread increases dramatically.

I know people with 2 or 4 sided led's have issues with beam pattern.

 

I know people with 2 or 4 sided led's have issues with beam pattern.

I am using a 4-side LED the beam pattern is excellent but like I said the high beam sucks.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075271Y1Z/[/ame]

That's the thing about different housings one bulb that works well might not work properly in another. I have tried HIDs there was too much glare plus the beam pattern was spotty. Too bad because the brightness was awesome, the high beam wasn't that good though not much change.

I want to try these but the price is too high without knowing if they'll work properly or not
https://headlightrevolution.com/supernova-v-4-led-headlights-9007-bulbs/

 

How many out of 4 do yours light up for the lows? If it's 2/2 then your brights should be decent, if it's 3/1 you could try a different design.

I fiddled with mine for hours, turning them everywhichway to get the best pattern for both. At one point it was so off I thought my light had burnt out. You could try rotating yours with your hi''s on but that would compromise your low beam pattern. These are fickle and hard to get exactly the way you want if you want quality light like me lol

 

How many out of 4 do yours light up for the lows?

Not 100% sure I assume two for low then all 4 for high. I did try rotating them the best pattern is the top emitters (which are closer to the glare shield compared to the other 2) on for low beam. I do need to aim my LH lamp a bit but the adjustment screw is seized can't get it to turn at all.

Compared to the original halogens or even the so called high output halogen the LEDs are about 2x as bright. Here's the beam pattern first image the road is inclined so beam is showing much higher than normal but you get the idea the pattern is about perfect. In fact it closely matches the halogen so many people say don't use an LED in a reflector you'll blind oncoming traffic. It greatly depends on the housing in this case the COB style LEDs work well.

I wasn't sure exactly where in line to put it so I could use just one so they both come off the plugs on each light, that won't be an issue right? They work fine.

Oh on this, the bulbs are wired in parallel so only need one resistor. There are so called "decoder" kits for 9004 the box contains a capacitor and maybe a resistor that might do the same thing as wiring in a resistor.

 

The lights i bought were just some cheap ebay Xentec cob leds with a 2 led chip (one on each side ) config with a 9004 plug. the look like every other ebay led headlights. tried repinning them to see if that was the issue and it did nothing. but, if i swap the high and low signal wires on the plug i get the high beam part of the light on the low setting. hoping the resistors work on these ones

 

you may want to try and match the 9004 specs with the leds:


700 lumens (doesn't specify if this is low or high beam only (However, article below specifies it as low beam with 1000 lumens for high beam.)


candle power 95/65 which I assume is high/low beam


wattage 65/45 watts at 12.8 volts (from this the DC current can be computed going into each filament or combined filament. Hence the series or parallel resistor value and wattage can be computed that may be needed should that be the solution).


Also, by using ohmmeter and measuring the DC resistance (without being plugged in) for the high/low beam filaments, one check to see what the led internal resistances are to compensate on the DC current draw between what the regular bulb does vs. the led to help determine the resistor value and wattage that one wants to use.



See the link for the details http://candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/9004_9007.pdf


However, lumens/watt for regular light bulbs vs led is not 1-for-1. See
this link. (note: efficiency for led is 4 to 1) https://www.voltlighting.com/articl...r-lumens-how-to-choose-the-right-led-bulb-replacement/p/article-watts-or-lumens


A rough estimate based on the table in the above weblink, it would be 12/16 watts for an led to be similar to the regular bulb. An interpolation could be done on the table to get a more accurate led value. One could then compute the led current and internal resistance based on the interpolated wattage (based on ohms law) to see if it comes close to what one measures to see if the various manufactures of led bulbs can match the lumen values.

 

rchotrodder1
The light source or LED chips are the key factor that determine the pattern. The closer the LED chips resemble the phyiscal size and position of the original filament the better the light pattern. Its also best to position an LED bulb to where diodes face from left to right. 2 sided bulbs work best for the a proper/safe beam pattern.


In most cases, the light pattern will appear similar to the factory lamps but will have all the bells & whistles of LED when the LED chips mimic the size/position of the original bulbs filmmaker. When the light source position changes such as position or phyiscal size, you begin to affect the pattern. A light source that sits closer to the headlights lens causes wider lighting. A light source that is located deeper into the housing by where the bulb inserts will help focus the beam with less wide lighting. A larger light source reduces light concentration and will scatter light to a larger area reducing intensity at a distance. A smaller light source will minimize the size of the beam pattern allowing a better focus, sharper beam, and less scattered light. Having several light sources is prone to create dark spotting and areas of heavily concentrated light as each light source is cast its own beam.


Hoping this helps!

 

If you refer to photography or astronomy, the parabolic dishes (but camrys have sort of an elliptical [rectangular that similar]shape that broadens in the horizontal and focuses/sharpens in the vertical) will focus light/radio ray beams equally in a circular dish to a point out in space. This point is adjusted based on where the foci (focal point) of the light/radio is generated or received at in front of the dish some distance from the center point. Thus, if I remember the high beam filament is in front some short distance from the low beam (or vise versa) in the light bulb that positions these filaments some additional distance from the center surface point of the dish (or headlight reflector) based on the length of the light bulb and the filaments position within the bulb. (If you look at the bulb you will see that both filaments arent the same distance) Since the filaments radiate light in all directions towards the headlight reflector and the pattern is controlled by the foci point and the shape of the reflector, it gives a better light pattern than the led which isn't stacked in the same way. The best they can do is place the led chips on the surface of the bulb and radiate in all directions from this surface which imitates as best s possible the filament properties of the regular bulb. Thus the additive effect of some number of leds on the bulbs surface combine together and reflect lets say on the left side of the bulb, and the same for the top, bottom and right side. Therefore all of these reflections are additive to give the light beam and acts similar to a filament.


Pictures might help visualize this. But since I don't have a graphics package, you'll have to let your mind do the visualization for you!! :nerd::think: Looks like this lightbulb emoji isn't to bright like the led! Look blue and dark.