To be honest, sounds like you are not set for that type of job, and it could turn dangerous. Look around for a buddy with tools and hands. Safer bet.
To diagnose exactly, hose joint with water and drive right away. If creaking goes away, it is LBJ indeed. If not, it's something else.

 

Ukrkoz- thks for your weak comments - Don't every determine what I'm capable of doing. You must not know how to do the job yourself.......because you did answer the questions presented. Good day

S.E. Washington, DC -

 

Not a particularly difficult job.

YouTube

You need a BIG hammer, at least 2#, Jack-stands and normal hand-tools. Autozone, and others has a loan a tool program for the fork.

Get your car in the air, and use a bar to lift the tire (stick the end past the tire, 1' or so, and left up on the tire. Watch to see what moves...if you can lift the tire up to in the ball joint...bad.

W.it on the ground, have somebody strong grab the wheel...twist it back and forth, in and out on the the too....look for movement. Turn the steering wheel back and forth, just enough to start the wheel to turn, the back the other way, backs nd forth...looking for slop in the tie.rods.

 

You need a BIG hammer, at least 2#, Jack-stands and normal hand-tools. Autozone, and others has a loan a tool program for the fork.

Yup, a big hammer is the fastest way to remove the ball joint from the angle seat. You can also use a 3-jaw puller, air hammer, etc. Leave the nut on there a few threads to keep the ball joint from coming out with force. No other special tools needed above and beyond normal automotive tools.

The diagnostic connector for checking codes is bolted to the driver's side strut tower. Flip open the lid, and short the Te and B+ pins, as shown in the following link. The gen2 Camry uses the 'two digit' codes:

Toyota Tech - Diagnostic Trouble Codes

The link is a Toyota 4x4 website, but all the information applies.

-Charlie

 

I would use a small pitman arm puller on Autozones free loaner list. With refundable deposit.

look at 9:15 in this video:

 

What about sway bar links and bushings?

 

Sway bar links would come right off after the nut removal as it’s not a taper seat as in the lower ball joint or outer tie rod.

the problem is rusted nut and the need to hold the sway bar ball joint stud with an Allen bit or hex wrench depending on the type.