They're gonna nose dive no matter what.

Newer, stiffer springs could help up front.

Lowering, bigger wheels with low profile tires will help body roll. I hope you used a TRD or whiteline RSB.

You could try a TRD strut bar. Don't get anything but a TRD though, the ones you see on ebay are crap.

There's a lot of other braces you can buy, but I personally think that lowering and tires will be your biggest improvement.

 

I didn't expect tire change would effect it that much. I was thinking about getting some springs from a junk yard that have a thicker wire diameter that are shorter than stock. would this work? And I pulled a stock rear sway bar from a camry at a junk yard (cost me $20) and attacted it to the stock one. I read an article about it on auto speed.

 

And I pulled a stock rear sway bar from a camry at a junk yard (cost me $20) and attacted it to the stock one. I read an article about it on auto speed.

Got pics?

I've seen pics of that done on a Volvo where the bar was bolted onto the frame. I am curious to see how it looks when its a bar attached to end links.

 

Also what is the principle behind strut bars? I know they help reduce the geometry change in the front suspension when taking turns at speed. But does it do this by pushing the upper strut away from each other or by pulling them in together. When I say push and pull I mean put force in that direction. Or am I making this more complicated than it really is? lol

 

The strut bar just holds them so they don't move in or out.

 

disk brakes in the back might help a bit? dual sway bars? how? pictures? more so what did you do with the bushings and end links? and for some reason the i4 bar is thicker than the v6 but the same size as the es and se

 

stiffer springs and thicker sway bar.

my 93 camry XLE V6 had hella body roll.. never took it on fast turns like my truck does haha

 

A good set of aftermarket springs, Tokico struts, TRD rear sway bar, TRD front strut tower bar, 17" or 18" wheels that are wide with softer/lower profile tires should be sufficient. That's what I have and my car is flat around corners. The rear is so stiff that oversteer can be an issue in certain situations. You can add more components too (ie. lower braces, LCA's, etc). If you want absolutely no roll, get some good coilovers with high spring rates. The car should be on rails after that.

 

What he said!:thumbsup:

 

Ok I will take some pics. What is TCL's? And could I get springs from a junk yard if I measure everything out?

 

I read the double sway bar article on a site called autospeed. They have a lot of useful information on upgrades and what not. Check it out!!

 

please dont go throwing random springs onto your car.

 

+1

 

I wouldn't be randomly picking springs to put on. I would be measuring my current springs and then measuring to find ones that have a higher spring rate (stiffer) and are shorter. If anyone has done this or tried to do this let me know.

 

coilovers are the only thing that significantly reduces nose dip. for body roll the RSB and tight springs/coilovers will help alot. if you find it in a junkyard...its probably junk.

 

im gunna shit my pants if i saw a camry V6 93 outcorner my truck lol.

 

yeah even when i had aftermarket springs i still had some nose divage

but once i got my ground control coilovers i get no nose dive but the ride is also a lot stiffer than before

 

I see. Can coil overs be put on one car than taken off and put on another car? Or do you have to buy coil overs made for camrys?

 

get the ones made for your car.

 

I don't think I'm going to put that much money into it. I'll just stick to what I have. Thank you for the information everyone.

 

I went from 14 to 18 inch rims with low profiles and a trd strut bar in front......its no sports car but its like day and night i would go with strut bars and some new rims best money next to new struts and springs...

 

+1 for check the rear brakes! Drum or Disc?
Does yours have anti-locks? Will it lock the rear on level, dry asphalt?

I think those big motor homes have tail dragger wheels that steer. Maybe you can adapt one to front so it stays level when mashing on the pedal?? :lol::lol::lol:

 

i'm against putting random stuff on the car...

if it aint made for your car, don't put it on...unless its custom and you have the fabricating skills.

and dual RSB, pics or it didnt happen

 

So strut bars really make a noticable difference? I know sway bars do make a difference, but didn't really know if strut bars did.

 

Strut bars really dont make a difference..... I mean when you are talking about heavy tuning it may have a minimal part in really giving you better handling. All it does is prevent your suspension from flexing in ward and outwards as stated b4 ie. /, &\, & | represent your tires incase you dont get it........

No Strut Tower Bar: outward \<------>/ and inward /----><----\

Strong Strut Tower Bar (Not EBAY B.S.): |------| stiffened

So it does add some stability while turning but dont go looking to take corners like a mini cooper or something........hope this helps...... :thumbsup:

 

^^ taking corners like a mini cooper in a stock Camry V6 means.... uhm, would the tires allow that? lol

 

^+1 above
Let me clarify: Strut bars and Anti-sway bars will do NOTHING to prevent nose dive during braking! Zip!

The term "anti-sway" is for torsional differences imposed upon the body from the wheels being pushed into the ground or lifted from the ground by the affects of body roll side to side. No body roll, no help. You could throw it away and it would brake the same under most circumstances.

As for the brace, if you plan to autocross, go for it. Otherwise its just bling and added weight. << :disappoin I know I'll take some heat for that. . .

If someone was to get serious about making a camry handle, the first step after lowing the CG would be to ditch the rubber biscuits insulating the sub-frames from the body and replace the rubber bushings in the lower A-arms with something more solid. Teflon, urethan, brass, or actual bearings, ect . . . Same for the rack and anti-sway bars. Until then I doubt there is any gain what so ever no matter how much the strut bar $bling$ costs!

Has anyone seen urethane sub-frame biscuits? Do they make them for a cami? Road noise would go through the ceiling but the 13" can outback prolly makes it irrelivent!

 

^+1 above
Let me clarify: Strut bars and Anti-sway bars will do NOTHING to prevent nose dive during breaking! Zip!

i had to requote to emphasize.

and like someone said- stiffer spring rates from aftermarket springs or adj. coilovers are the way to go to reduce front-end dive. on the other hand, the front-end dive is there because of the soft spring rates in the front which are soft on purpose- to help reduce understeer.

it's a give-take situation with the spring rates. go stiff, and you end up plowing into every corner at entry. go soft, and you get major front-end dive.

 

Yes, I still get some nose diving/squatting with my setup. The only way to correct that would be to get stiffer linear springs like mentioned before. I think it's obvious that the sway bar/strut bar would have no effect on those circumstances...

On the other hand, my car can easily outcorner a stock Mini S. I know because I autoX'd with one at a free event a few months ago. TRD RSB is one of the best mods for the money. You will notice a difference with the TRD strut bar as well, although not as significant. I've noticed better stability under hard cornering.