Do not pre-fill the oil filter (any oil filter on any car)
This pushes unfiltered oil into the engine. It should be clean straight out of the bottle, but there may be contamination in the bottle or your funnel.
Change the filter, add the oil to the pan, and start it up.

 

Ok. I had seen videos of the Highlander stating to prefill the filter.

 

The thought process of filling your oil filter before installing it is so you will have oil throughout your system continuously and not have any areas without oil. Is it necessary? I don’t really think you’re hurting much by starting your car one time and having an empty spot of oil, that quickly is pumped and filled right back up, but who knows? A lot of people insist on filling that oil filter before install...sometimes I’ll do it, sometimes I won’t. In the grand scheme of things I think it’s pretty small. I would think worrying that you’re damaging the engine by filling it with oil (because of unfiltered oil) is even smaller. IMO.

If I had to choose I’d choose filling it. And as far as it effecting the total amount of oil you put in the engine...if it worries you, just add a tiny bit less, and then check it after you start it (and adjust as necessary). But I doubt adding oil to the oil filter would add any noticeable amount to a dipstick reading.

 

Just put 5 quarts in the crankcase, or the crankcase and filter, whatever you prefer. Then start and check the level and top off from there as needed.

If you really want to be pedantic, the oil change w/ filter fill quantity includes whatever amount you put in the filter, so if that's 5.8 quarts you need 5.8 quarts total, however you split it up.

 

Just so your clear, you check the oil when the engine is NOT running and has been sitting to allow the oil to drip back into the pan. Those who say to start it up and then check the oil either mistakely said this or have been checking their oil level incorrectly. As for filling the filter, if it were me I would skip it. There is enough residual oil in the engine to prevent harm over the 5 or 10 seconds it take to full circulate oil.

 

Those who say to start it up and then check the oil either mistakely said this or have been checking their oil level incorrectly.

No, just assumed it was obvious you have to shut it back off before you check it. Never assume, I guess.

 

Not all filters are mounted in a way that you can add oil. My 05 4runner was inversely mounted. Any oil you added to filter would pour out when you tried to screw it on.

Adding oil to the filter is a good idea. It gives you a continuous flow of oil. I don't know of any good mechanic who doesn't recommend adding oil to the filter (if possible). Places like Jiffy Lube don't because it takes time. And their business model is fast-fast-fast.

How much oil? Right near the top. Just have to be careful you don't spill.

 

Not all filters are mounted in a way that you can add oil. My 05 4runner was inversely mounted. Any oil you added to filter would pour out when you tried to screw it on.

That was exactly what triggered the conversation where I was informed that it is not a good idea to pre-fill when I got my '08 Tacoma.

Oil flows from the outside to the inside on the filter. Add your oil from the outside, not the inside, and your added oil is filtered exactly as designed. That way there is little to no burp in the oil system and any contamination is filtered out.

You can't pre-fill a spin-on filter from the outside, only the open element style, and without the pressure of the mount on the top of the element, there is no seal at the bottom of the element. Filling from the outside still allows the oil to flow under the element.

And you'd need a turkey baster to get into the area between the filter element and the outside of the housing to pre-fill the filters that were on my wife's '15 Rav4 or '16 Corolla.

 

Oil flows from the outside to the inside on the filter. Add your oil from the outside, not the inside, and your added oil is filtered exactly as designed. That way there is little to no burp in the oil system and any contamination is filtered out.

 

It only takes a few cranks from the starter to get oil pressure?
In the the short period of time taken for the engine to fire there is oil pressure?
The oil was warmed up by running the engine so oil remains on all the lubricated surfaces after the oil has been drained and refilled?

 

Changing a similar element oil filter on a Honda atv ,which was sideways mounted
The only thing I did out of abundance of caution
Was take the spark plug lead off and crank the starter after the oil change

 

Changing oil in my vehicles since the late 1960's and never added oil to the filter. I sell my cars myself when I buy a different one and most of them will give up around 200K non engine related. A relative is still driving my old 1999 Civic with no oil related engine issues. There was discussion to add oil to the filter back when I first started changing oil, but it was 50/50. It was also the same era of buying a filter conversion from JC Whitney so you could use toilet paper as a oil filter, saw that in action not good.

 

I don't prefill our car engine oil filters.The larger an oil filter size is the more sense it makes to filled them up if they are mounted vertically.
Most large hgw truck engine oil filters need at least 1 gallon of oil to fill them up.

 

Thanks for all of the great opinions ad suggestions. It appears that most are saying no need to fill the filter with oil when changing and it doesn't really matter either way if I do decide to fill it with oil. Correct?

 

I know of no study on pre-fil vs no pre-fil. Not something I'd really worry about.

 

Keep in simple stupid

1. Engine not cold
2. Key OFF, Engine OFF
3. Window open
4. Hood open
5. Check dipstick
6. Remove oil cap
7. Place oil cap near hood latch
8. Lift vehicle (ramps or jacks or a hole in the ground)
9. Make sure vehicle is stable
10. Place oil catch pan under oil drain hole and oil filter
11. Remove oil drain bolt
12. Drain oil
13. Remove oil filter
14. Drain oil
15. Clean mating surfaces for oil filter
16. Lube oil filter o-ring (may or may not apply to canister, may or may not apply to certain oil filters)
17. Install oil filter
18. Install oil drain bolt
19. Clean any residue oil
20. Lower vehicle
21. Add 4 qt of oil OR get the oil capacity specification
22. Install oil cap
23. Key ON, Engine ON
24. Key ACC or ON, Engine OFF
25. Check dipstick
26. Remove oil cap
27. Add oil as needed
28. Check dipstick
29. Install oil cap
30. Repeat steps 21 - 27 until satisfied
31. Check for leaks
32. Hood closed
33. Done!

We can make this as simple or even more overly complicated

1. Engine not cold
2. Window open
3. Key OFF, Engine OFF
4. Hood open
5. Check dipstick
6. Remove oil cap
7. Place oil cap near hood latch
8. Lift vehicle (ramps or jacks or a hole in the ground)
9. Make sure vehicle is stable
10. Check for leaks
11. Place oil catch pan under oil drain hole and oil filter
12. Remove oil drain bolt
13. Drain oil
14. Remove oil filter
15. Drain oil
16. Check tie rod play
17. Check ball joint play
18. Check sway bar links
19. Check sway bar bushings
20. Check CV axles
21. Check u-joints (if equipped)
22. Check tire pressure
23. Check if wheel spins
24. Check undercarriage
25. Check exhaust
26. Clean mating surfaces for oil filter
27. Lube oil filter o-ring (may or may not apply to canister, may or may not apply to certain oil filters)
28. Install oil filter
29. Install oil drain bolt
30. Clean any residue oil
31. Lower vehicle
32. Add 4 qt of oil OR get the oil capacity specification
33. Install oil cap
34. Key ON, Engine ON
35. Key ACC or ON, Engine OFF
36. Check dipstick
37. Remove oil cap
38. Add oil as needed
39. Check dipstick
40. Install oil cap
41. Repeat steps 33 - 39 until satisfied
42. Check for leaks
43. Check automatic transmission fluid
44. Check brake fluid
45. Check battery terminals
46. Check washer fluid
47. Check coolant reservoir
48. Check power steering fluid
49. Hood closed
50. Check horn
51. Check low beams
52. Check high beams
53. Check turn signal
54. Check parking light
55. Check hazard lights
56. Check tail lights
57. Check brake lights & high mount brake light
58. Check license plate light
59. Check reverse light
60. Check turn signal
61. Done!

We can make this even more overly complicated

1. Engine not cold
2. Window open
3. Key OFF, Engine OFF
4. Hood open
5. Check dipstick
6. Remove oil cap
7. Place oil cap near hood latch
8. Lift vehicle (ramps or jacks or a hole in the ground)
9. Make sure vehicle is stable
10. Check for leaks
11. Remove oil drain bolt
12. Place a beaker
13. Drain oil
14. Measure how much oil is drained
15. Remove oil filter
16. Place a beaker
17. Drain oil
18. Measure how much oil is drained
19. Check tie rod play
20. Check ball joint play
21. Check sway bar links
22. Check sway bar bushings
23. Check CV axles
24. Check u-joints (if equipped)
25. Check tire pressure
26. Check if wheel spins
27. Check undercarriage
28. Check exhaust
29. Clean mating surfaces for oil filter
30. Lube oil filter o-ring (may or may not apply to canister, may or may not apply to certain oil filters)
31. Install oil filter
32. Install oil drain bolt
33. Clean any residue oil
34. Lower vehicle
35. Add specially the same amount of oil that was measured
36. Install oil cap
37. Key ON, Engine ON
38. Key ACC or ON, Engine OFF
39. Check dipstick
40. Remove oil cap
41. Add oil as needed
42. Check dipstick
43. Install oil cap
44. Repeat steps 33 - 39 until satisfied
45. Check for leaks
46. Check automatic transmission fluid
47. Check brake fluid
48. Check battery terminals
49. Check washer fluid
50. Check coolant reservoir
51. Check power steering fluid
52. Hood closed
53. Check horn
54. Check low beams
55. Check high beams
56. Check turn signal
57. Check parking light
58. Check hazard lights
59. Check tail lights
60. Check brake lights & high mount brake light
61. Check license plate light
62. Check reverse light
63. Check turn signal
64. Done!

Any ideas on how to make this more complicated? Dial indicator? Multimeter?

K.I.S.S.

 

Oil debate... start!!!

Here is a almost $300 potential solution and I will admit it is something I have thought of installing. However it is a very low priority and I'd have no clue how'd I'd do it.

ACCUMULATOR, 3 QUART

Accumulator, 3 quart capacity, 20-1/8" x 4-1/4" cylinder

www.moroso.com

 

You can either hook it up with a spin on adapter or tap it straight in to the main oil gallery. It's very easy.

Once I installed one of those I stopped worrying about overfilling the oil on my engine. If you forget to close the valve and turn the car off you end up with 3 extra quarts in the crankcase - and nothing happens. Plus, that's on top of the extra quart I put in to begin with! Different engines will behave different of course.


If I was going to use it on a daily driver I'd set up an electronic solenoid to control it from the driver's seat, maybe make it automatic.

 

Low priority. I know I have definitely heard a grind on first start after an oil change when I let the oil drain for a long time.

 

The accumulator is downstream of the filter, so it's not going to pre-fill the filter either

It's not a bad idea for cold starts on an engine that is not run frequently, such as after winter storage, or a racing engine that is only run every few weekends.

 

Ok let's try and be logical.

@Vangm25 , nice basic to OCD write-up. I'd edit to add the warning "Lower vehicle then fill.... If using ramps don't do that. Put some oil first before driving it off the ramps"
Also what the f*ck do you need the window down to do an oil change?

Now on to debunking pre-filling filter...
The few "impurities" are pretty insignificant since if you have a V6 you'll be dumping 6 quarts of "impurities" straight through the top of the engine over the cams and down the oil passages and end up in the oil pan.

Watch 1000 YoyoTube videos and you'll get 900 stupid "you have to do this or it will kill your engine" videos.

1 - Canister screw on filter - use NEW oil and lubricate the seal. screw that. You're under the car. The drained oil is under the car. The new oil goes in from the top, Take finger dip it in the drain pan and smear that seal. It's going against the engine block and has a single purpose so the rubber doesn't stick like glue to the engine. Noting else. Just try it without oil and tell us how much fun you have getting it off next oil change

2 - Stupid messy cartridge filter with metal holder. Notice the difference between it and the plastic one. Plastic has no drain plug. There's one O ring seal in the box. Metal one there's 2 O rings. Guess where the Toyota stealership oil change monkey puts it.... In the garbage! (unless he's a collector) They don't waste time draining it. They take the whole thing off and drain it.

Me I'm keeping that little guy since I barely drive and oil still ages and needs to be changed. I buy FRAM Ultra Synthetic Oil Filters. And guess what. Now that my Avalon has good oil and a great filter and new O-Rings. Come next year the oil filter ain't going anywhere till the next oil change. Unscrew the plug and drain the filter. Use next filter's O-Ring and drain pipe and away me go to the drain plug. Hey? Wait! Where's the drain plug?
There ain't none. EZ-OIL drain valve, adaptor and drain hose. No Mess no where's my washer and no looking for the drain bolt that blasted out of my hands.

That's my KISS procedure!
No need to repeat the mess from the first one. And if it wasn't a 2013 Avalon Limited I'd test pushing that oil filter to 20K miles without replacing it. But I'm going to play it a bit safer. And at 99% filtration for 11.49 Canadian it'll keep my oil and engine cleaner than cheap Toyota toilet paper filters every oil change.

Now he may be long winded and a Toyota only parts and cleaners fan but if there's one guy that knows Yotas it's the Car Care Nut Guy. Watch his oil change explanation videos.

What next? Use a paint shop filter to fill your engine oil?

 

Ok let's try and be logical.

@Vangm25 , nice basic to OCD write-up. I'd edit to add the warning "Lower vehicle then fill.... If using ramps don't do that. Put some oil first before driving it off the ramps"
Also what the f*ck do you need the window down to do an oil change?

Now on to debunking pre-filling filter...
The few "impurities" are pretty insignificant since if you have a V6 you'll be dumping 6 quarts of "impurities" straight through the top of the engine over the cams and down the oil passages and end up in the oil pan.

Watch 1000 YoyoTube videos and you'll get 900 stupid "you have to do this or it will kill your engine" videos.

1 - Canister screw on filter - use NEW oil and lubricate the seal. screw that. You're under the car. The drained oil is under the car. The new oil goes in from the top, Take finger dip it in the drain pan and smear that seal. It's going against the engine block and has a single purpose so the rubber doesn't stick like glue to the engine. Noting else. Just try it without oil and tell us how much fun you have getting it off next oil change

2 - Stupid messy cartridge filter with metal holder. Notice the difference between it and the plastic one. Plastic has no drain plug. There's one O ring seal in the box. Metal one there's 2 O rings. Guess where the Toyota stealership oil change monkey puts it.... In the garbage! (unless he's a collector) They don't waste time draining it. They take the whole thing off and drain it.

Me I'm keeping that little guy since I barely drive and oil still ages and needs to be changed. I buy FRAM Ultra Synthetic Oil Filters. And guess what. Now that my Avalon has good oil and a great filter and new O-Rings. Come next year the oil filter ain't going anywhere till the next oil change. Unscrew the plug and drain the filter. Use next filter's O-Ring and drain pipe and away me go to the drain plug. Hey? Wait! Where's the drain plug?
There ain't none. EZ-OIL drain valve, adaptor and drain hose. No Mess no where's my washer and no looking for the drain bolt that blasted out of my hands.

That's my KISS procedure!
No need to repeat the mess from the first one. And if it wasn't a 2013 Avalon Limited I'd test pushing that oil filter to 20K miles without replacing it. But I'm going to play it a bit safer. And at 99% filtration for 11.49 Canadian it'll keep my oil and engine cleaner than cheap Toyota toilet paper filters every oil change.

Now he may be long winded and a Toyota only parts and cleaners fan but if there's one guy that knows Yotas it's the Car Care Nut Guy. Watch his oil change explanation videos.

What next? Use a paint shop filter to fill your engine oil?

It's what happens when I worked in a garage for awhile. Fear of closing the door with the keys inside and the door auto locks. Inside on the seat is also just a relatively safe place to put youd keys when doing car work.

My drain plug washer is stuck on the oil pan.

 

Gotta filter that oil right out of the new bottle to protect your engine....for real. Dumping unfiltered oil in the crankcase is no bueno.

 

It passes through the filter on its way to the bearings

 

Just remember if one doesn’t do as some notable posters on here say
Ones engine won’t last 300000 miles 😎

 

Transfer of ownership on Sept 17. 2020 171,832 km (106,771 miles)
436 days later, I'm at 178,868 km (111,143 miles).
That works out to 10 miles per day
I think my Avy making it to 300,000 miles is definitely the least of my worries.

So they can change their oil every day if they want. I'm sticking to my plan. And I'll be changing my own oil my way till me or Avy (or both) are dead

 

There's no need to make oil changes a science. If it makes you feel better go for it. Make accurate measurements, wait hours for oil to drain completely, fill the oil filter, torque it all down, do whatever.

Just bear in mind that everyone else will add in whatever oil is correct according to the dipstick, they may lubricate the oil filter o-ring, and they will hopefully get it all good and tight and this will be just as good as making it to be a science with less than half the effort.

K.I.S.S.

 

A lot of hooey!

 

Somebody please STOP THIS POST!!!

 

I think we see a lot of debate on the oil threads because it's a task that is being performed by everyone from complete noobs to seasoned professionals.

To the noobs it's a very big deal because you are under the hood, working on the mysterious, intimidating engine, and feel like the most subtle mistake is going to ruin the car.

To the pros, it's routine, commodity work that only a complete hack could screw up, and it's never going to cause a comeback, so get it done and move on to the jobs that pay better.

And the reality is... Up to you to decide for yourself