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Oil Leaking from Drain Plug. Bad Bolt?

11K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  Chuy  
#1 ·
What in the hell? I put the damn drain plug back in, tight. Use new washer every time. I have notice that when I back out the bolt to change the oil, it seems to come out way too easy. So, is it a bad drain plug? Bad oil pan? Using about 1 quart over 9000 miles. Don't like that at all.

WHAT'S THE TORQUE setting for the oil drain plug? There's 250 K miles on the truck. Wondering if all those changes is screwing up the threads. As always, thanks for your valued opinions.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Got any piccies of the bolt? ;)




According to my FSM, 49 INCH pounds or about 4 ft lbs. 20-30 ft lbs would strip that threaded hole right out. :(

Also, Permatex Right Stuff on the threads is a no no. You will end up freezing/galling the threads up when you remove it. A liquid thread sealant like Rectorseal Tru Blu would be a better choice provided you can git the oil off of the threads. You can find it at yer local Home Depot or Lowes hardware stores. ;)
http://www.rectorseal.com/rectorseal-tru-blu/
 
#6 ·
#9 ·
The last time I got a TIS subscription, I looked at the torque value and found it was 30 ft-lbs, so for the first time in almost 40 years of changing the oil in various cars, I started using my torque wrench. I've done that twice now with my wife's Sienna, and when I changed the oil on Saturday, I could tell the plug loosened up easier than previously. So that tells me my hand tightening (1/2" drive Craftsman ratchet and 14mm socket) was more than 30 ft-lbs, probably more like 40-45.

Talking about thread wear, I do notice that the plug in our Sienna (169k) does unscrew easier than the one in the Tacoma (55k). Maybe buy a new new drain plug, and at the next oil change, try it.
 
#10 ·
My FSM says 28 ft lbs for the drain plug, (38N m). With a new gasket on the drain plug each time.

Oil filter only gets 10 fl lbs.
 
#11 ·
The thread area is reinforced with a small plate inside, so unless Toyota went to a cheaper oil pan seemingly like one member with Scion experienced, it shouldn't strip so easily.

You can find thread repair plugs, Fumoto or even a $47 new pan. ;) Keep an eye it doesn't come loose and cost you an engine.
Image
 
#14 · (Edited)
I saw the following on Bob the Oil Guy site and makes sense to me: "Most oil pan plugs don't use the thread for the seal ..they use the flat of the bolt head in conjunction (usually) with a washer/gasket. Sorta like a jar lid. The thread provides the preload on the sealing surface ..not the sealing surface itself." [sic]

If the threads are not maintaining the proper preload over time, you get the leak. To maintain the preload, you'll have to 'lock' the threads with a threadlocker - Loctite 243 and Permatex Threadlocker Blue are oil resistant AFTER they dry, which will take 24 hours to cure fully. But using a threadlocker on a bolt that needs to be removed periodically is not practical as you'll need to clean the threads each time you apply the threadlocker. This is where Blackness' idea for a Fumoto, I use the competing EZ Valve, should be considered. Once installed properly, you shouldn't have to remove it ever again.

I learned that Teflon tape is not a sealant, it's a lubricant that allows a threaded joint to be threaded tighter; it is the tighter threading that creates the seal, not the tape itself. If the oil plug has worn out threads, Teflon tape may not provide the proper seal. It could, but I think a threadlocker may be the better of the two in this case as it will 'lock' the threads in place, maintaining the preload on the bolt head necessary to prevent a leak.

Also, Teflon is not a thing; it is a brand, like Kleenex that makes tissue paper. I'm not trying to show off, it's something I learned tonight and thought to pass it on.