I don't have a Camry.

I use anti-seize on the threads. I've read not to do so b/c some of the plugs already have it and it messes up the installation torque. If no torque wrench, that hardly matters. Torque wrenches are $10 at Harbor Freight. If no torque wrench, use the calibrated elbow - i.e. look up the correct foot-pounds, figure the ratchet is about a foot long, and put that much pressure on it.

 

Go with the NGK standard copper (or v-power) plugs. BCPR5ES-11... A whopping $2 each, change every 15k miles or so.

Go with or without anti-seize... your choice.

For tightening, use a soft touch. You'll feel the gasket compressing for about 1 full turn, then the torque will ramp up quickly. Stop just as the torque required to keep turning the plug starts going up. 12-14 ft.-lbs.

-Charlie

Excellent advice for this novice. Will go with wrench and torque recommendation. Thanks guys.

 

Go with the NGK standard copper (or v-power) plugs. BCPR5ES-11... A whopping $2 each, change every 15k miles or so.

Go with or without anti-seize... your choice.

For tightening, use a soft touch. You'll feel the gasket compressing for about 1 full turn, then the torque will ramp up quickly. Stop just as the torque required to keep turning the plug starts going up. 12-14 ft.-lbs.

-Charlie

 

Go with the NGK standard copper (or v-power) plugs. BCPR5ES-11... A whopping $2 each, change every 15k miles or so.

I don't think this is any cheaper than the Toyota platinum plugs which are changed at about 65k miles.


15k(5)= 65K miles
$2(5)= $10 worth of plugs changed on each cylinder


So the price between changing a platinum plugs vs. a copper plug isn't that much different, only the number of times you have to change them.

 

Copper plugs generally perform better. Personally, I prefer the convenience of only having to change the plats at 65K or 100K or whatever the case may be, but it's somewhat a personal decision.

 

This. It isn't a choice of saving money.

The copper plugs definitely perform better (they are essentially the only thing that works in a 3s-gte, which reminds me, I need to replace the ignition system on mine...). The platinum and iridiums are more reliable for longer periods of time.

-Charlie

 

If the car is easy to work on and recommend by OEM, copper is what I go with. Copper is recommend for the 2S-E iirc , but then again spark plug changes on that engine is literally 5 minutes with almost no chances of breaking anything. Now, if your talking about a 1MZFE.....

I've used anti-seize on these. I used to just hand tighten them until they 'stop' from a light wrist, then a tad more. Always better to have them not as light versus snapping them/stripped the threading. I now have a torque wrench and you'll not regret buying a torque wrench.

 

Yep, I finally saw the light here and torque wrench is the way too go. Harbor Freight has 'em now for $11.99 with the right coupon. I'll probably stick with the platinums (4 for $14) as I'm not a fan of doing this maintenance too often... butterfingers here and one day would probably get the socket stuck. So slightly less plug performance in exchange for longer term is the best route for me. But I can see the case for copper.

 

Replaced my plugs this morning. These are the plugs that came out which were last installed in 2005. A couple heavily oil coated. Is this normal? Could plugs loosen over time and allow seepage?

 

That is caused by leaking valve cover washer seals.

 

Edit: Related to valve cover gasket?

 

Yup, the large nuts on the top of the valve cover have seals under them. Also, I've heard the spark plug tubes can leak where they screw into the head

 

Thanks. I'm not sure if replacing the gasket alone will solve my fouled spark plugs issue. Since I get blue exhaust smoke at morning startups, guessing that bad valve stem seals are also contributing and need replacement.

I was ready to do the gasket myself, but valve stem seals are too much for me and more for the mechanic. Might not be worth that kind of investment and still pondering.

 

Your spark plugs look fairly normal actually the oil contamination is not going on in the combustion chamber. The one on the right is curious though it doesn't have the corona discharge effect.

 

Yeah, that is weird and noticed that inconsistency too. And the 2 center plugs are fairly fouled compared to the outer 2. Combustion chamber section of the plugs do look good. Wonder where that oil fouling is coming from... must be bad valve cover gasket as the cause.

 

Edit as of last Sunday: Finally replaced my valve cover gasket and reinstalled spark plugs to ensure no fouling. Struggled to get the IPCV hose (edit: I think this is the crankcase breather hose) disconnected from the valve cover. The hose end split a bit but taped it up and put on a small clamp. Otherwise everything looked good and engine started up fine.

Then after driving a bit I noticed the idle was a bit rough and on the low side. Opened the hood and rechecked all connections - everything looked good and no leaks inside or underneath. A while later had trouble starting but finally it did.

Took it out for another spin. Engine died at a stop sign and refused to start. It cranked but wouldn't turn over. Had to have it towed to a local auto shop where it sits now. Can't think of anything done wrong. It's as if the air intake is now limited or severely reduced. I'm at a loss.

 

Only thing I can think of a vacuum leak or something to do with the spark plugs. I know with vacuum leaks, they will tend to show more when the car is warm up.

 

Ran down to the auto shop to see what they found out. They said 2 out of 4 cylinders aren't getting spark, and that I must have damaged one or more wires during valve cover removal. It was awfully tight and couldn't help but bend that wire set on the left side of the valve cover. 25 year old car is going to have brittle wires, and this seems likely cause.

 

Coil packs or bad sparkplug wires?

 

A question is which wires impact only 2 out of 4 cylinder. The shop is telling me it's not the spark plug wire set, but elsewhere. Other than that set, the only wires I had to disturb during cover removel was the cluster at the valve cover's immediate left. But I really have no idea. Still waiting for the shop to diagnose.

 

Just to make sure the spark plug wires are not at fault here, if you have an ohmmeter you can measure their resistance. Shouldn't be higher than 25 Kohms.

 

Good idea and will have that done. It's really a mystery which and where the faulty wires in question are.