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Steering shaft clunk

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40K views 38 replies 17 participants last post by  deaven  
#1 ·
Hello everyone,
First time user of this forum, longtime Toyota owner.
I've got an '08 Highlander, (approx.) 130,000 miles with the steering clunk. It has other symptoms other than just the clunk so was wondering if anyone has had to replace tie rods, ball joints, bushings etc.?
Thank you!
 
#2 ·
If it is just the steering clunk, that is the intermediate steering shaft and you can either try to lube the splines with white lithium grease or you can get it replaced. If you get it replaced, get the alignment unless you want potential for a off center steering wheel.
 
#4 ·
02 - 05 Camry's had a kit that injected the grease into the splines. I tried to use this kit on my 08 Camry only to find that my splines are much thinner than the older ones. I ended up disconnecting it from my steering wheel and greasing it like that and then got a alignment. Otherwise unless the shaft was horribly malfunctioning (I honestly doubt they really ever go bad unless there was a reason), I think just attempting to grease it is a good try.

These aren't instructions, just what I have tried except for #3
  1. Attempt to grease the splines as is with a syringe of some sort capable of fitting the splines and injecting the grease
  2. If unable to grease through the splines, attempt to mark the splines where they are then seat belt the steering wheel so that it does not keep turning to prevent the airbag clock spring from going bad, then remove the bolt holding it together and inject grease directly into it
  3. Replace the entire assembly

The option is up to you on what you want to do with it. I am sure other's can provide helpful insight.
 
#6 ·
Well from experience, I was only able to semi-grease it but what little I put on was enough for the clunk to go away. To me, the main part of the process is getting the alignment (if the shaft is replaced or taken out of the splines) because there has been at least five threads within the pass six months asking if an alignment is needed and if the dealership was just ripping them off. If you can get spline A into spline A, that is great. Realistically I see it being more like spline C into spline A. Good luck!
 
#7 ·
You have to be a contortionist of the world class, to be able to get to ISS splines in any "I can work on it" position. I tried. A;lso, ISS splines are sealed from the top with a rubber seal and entire clearance to place anything inside is MINUSCULE, so you need a syringe with thin needle and it has to be bent to poke through the seal squirt some lubricant in.
What dealer does, they "milk" the shaft. It has plenty of grease as is, it simply is not distributed across the splines on its own. So they disconnect upper shaft U-joint, and collapse ISS onto itself. They do this manually few times, up and down, so splines are re greased. Motion is similar to milking a cow, hence the term.
Good luck with that. Like I said, the only way you can get to it is to move seat all the way back, lay on your back, get plenty of light and maybe then, you can get to the U-joint bolt. It's not really that much of a job, it's getting to the job site that is tough.
Folks come up with all kinds of ideas how to secure steering wheel during this, as you do not want it to spin. Most tie seat belt super tight around SW, securing it in place. If you have SW secured and not moved a bit, and you remove ISS, nothing is changed in steering configuration and alignment is not needed. If SW moved and you ended with crooked wheel, alignment is not going to fix it anyway, as you simply have properly positioned steering rack but SW is crooked on it. So it needs to be undone and rotated to proper position. As I said - good luck. Doable, but RPITA. Simply because of very uncomfortable job site.
 
#8 ·
There’s a write up I did in the DIY stickies at the top of the forum for the intermediate steering shaft replacement. Takes about an hour if you don’t have rust issues. No alignment needed as the steering geometry is unaffected. If you misalign the splines, remove the top and shift it over a spline. The replacement shaft is beefier than the original.
 
#12 ·
Thank you for addressing the original question. I appreciate all the great advise concerning the steering shaft! It really feels like there's something loose in the front end also. Several different things going on with it that aren't right. I really try to take care of my vehicles and I'm not sure that my Highlander's gonna make the long haul with me! Just angry that it needs front-end work already :(. I will only drive a Toyota but I'm losing faith in the quality and longevity of the product. Coming to the reality that everything in society is made to be replaced not rebuilt......
Very sad. Produces lots of waste.
Thanks again everyone! Will have EVERYTHING checked out!
 
#13 ·
Before you go off the deep end have it checked by competent techs. I had been looking at a 2008 HL Base and it had some pretty high miles. I even found out later it had been a RENTAL car which is the epitome of abuse. (I used to work for a major rental company and what I saw people do to the cars would make a gear head cry). Anyway during a test drive the steering was clunking like crazy and I was absolutely 100% convinced it needed massive front end work. Well I paid for a full top to bottom inspection of this vehicle. Absolutely NOTHING ZIP NADA NOTHING wrong with the front end or suspension. The techs assured me only the shaft was noisy combined with some of the normal electric power steering "feel" it had. So really ripping on the product is probably premature.

Now is there ANYONE who has the link to the video I have seen mentioned of getting grease into that thing?!
 
#15 ·
I replaced mine at 100k, on my 2008 Highlander. If you could have seen how loose and wobbly the old one was, compared to the new, you would not be trying to patch it. the rest of my suspension was and still is tight with no issues. That was just a bad produced part. Make sure you get the revised part, when replacing.
 
#18 ·
OK..jumping in on this thread with the same issue. If I find an independent mechanic to do the work (if I decide to have it done), does anyone know the Toyota PN?

Wife has a 2012 Highlander SE 130K miles, and had it in the shop yesterday for some fluid changes. She also had them look at another issue. Sometimes when going around a turn or moving the wheel left or right (only at very slow speeds) you can feel a thumping in the wheel with a very slight clunking noise. Going on the highway or roads the noise is not there. The mechanic said that he "thinks" it could be the intermediate steering shaft, and suggested we "start with that" as an option to fix it. He wanted $472 for parts and labor :surprise:.

After searching and reading some of the post on this forum I've noticed this is a pretty common issue with not only the Highlander but also other vehicles that have some miles on them. It appears there is really no safety issue with this problem. I really don't want to put down that kind of money on a noise/issue that is not causing any safety issues and would rather just spend the money on maintenance (e.g., replace serpentine belt). So, has anyone else had this problem and how have you addressed it?
 
#26 ·
Heard back from Roman where I got mine. Not sure what’s going on with their software, but he says it’s definitely still available (same part number). Maybe a glitch in the software?

Direct link $179.68: https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-intermediate-shaft-4522048171

Might check our supporting vendors in the commerce section to see if one of those dealers is cheaper when you include shipping.
 
#28 ·
So I always assumed that this intermediate shaft issue was a nuisance clunk, and did NOT affect steering feel/precision for better or worse.


Two members allude to some to significant improvement in steering performance after replacing a clunking intermediate shaft.


Is this more than anecdotal?