You may want to take a look at some South Main Auto Repair videos on YouTube. He has a few which show how to DIY undercoat. The repair shop is in Avoca, NY which experiences some brutal winters in addition to driving on dirt roads.

 

I did stumble across some of his videos before I ordered the spray kit. Guy knows his stuff.

I live in Ottawa, Ontario - salt capital of Canada.

Over the years, I’ve owned many Honda’s and Toyota’s. I keep cars 10+ years.
In all that time, the only rusting I’ve ever experienced was on a 2004 RAV4, and this occurred only around the access holes drilled by rustproofing shop.

Car chassis are zinc electro coated when built and which is purported to be highly effective against rust. As long as this plating is not injured panel rust should not be a problem.

Based on my experience, I would pass on rustproofing.

I imagine the various auto manufacturers use different coatings. Especially as things change over the years with new advancements. This is my first Toyota or Honda so no experience with them. There's a 7 year old Kia in my garage right now - no rust on the painted body but the under carriage is not pretty. Substantial rust on the undercarriage/chassis. Wouldn't be to fun to work on. That's what I'd like to prevent. To be fair though the car was never undercoated and likely not washed enough in the winters early on in its life before I came into the picture. If it was washed regularly in the winter it likely wouldn't be as bad. I would still expect a fair amount of rust on the undercarriage though.

I don't plan on drilling access holes in the doors and rockers. I know this is debated among the various undercoating companies. I feel there's enough access holes for drainage in the doors, rockers, and chassis that can be used to feed long spray wands. Many pro spray guns come with 18" to 24" long wands, 360 degree tips, and straight tips, that can coat all over the inside of cavities.

Preventive or reactive, personally I prefer to be reactive and after every "not-that-below-freezing" day after a blizzard I get a full touchless car wash to get whatever salt off the body and underbody. I had my car on the lift yesterday and I should've taken pictures but overall the body isn't THAT rusty. If anything, the picture below and whatever isn't the body is what is rusty (steering knuckle, struts, exhaust, bolts, etc.). In addition, the body is also overall rust free except for one small area on the door (you will have to search hard to find it but it is on the Front Right door edge). Whatever scratches I got, I covered them up with the Turtle Wax Pen and Touchup Paint. I'm in Wisconsin.

Preventive and reactive is likely the best way though. On those same days in winter I get a touchless wash as well. It seems like on most cars these days the painted body is the last thing to rust. My mindset isn't as much about keeping rust off the body as it is keeping rust off what you mentioned. The undercarriage, knuckles, struts, bolts, frame. Key areas like the bottom of the doors and rockers as well.

It's more about drilling access holes which you then seal off with plastic plugs, than it is removing panels... I had mine done at Ziebart when car was one day old.

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Since 1959, Ziebart has been your local expert for all-things automotive, appearance and protection. From rust protection to detailing, paint protection to window tinting, we clean and protect your vehicle to help you avoid costly repairs in the future. With more than 1,200 service centers in 37...

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I believe most of the companies recommend drilling holes. They won't warranty the annual work otherwise. Krown, Ziebart, CorrosionFree. Woolwax sells plugs and a drill bit so they might even too. Certain areas like the rockers. I've seen others just feed the wands through existing drain holes to spray inside cavities. Just have to make sure you don't block the drainage. That's what I plan on doing.

The panels I mean are these:

Lots of panels covering up the underbody on these new cars. I'm not sure how much road spray/debris will get under them but I imagine some will.

 

I live in Ottawa, Ontario - salt capital of Canada.

Over the years, I’ve owned many Honda’s and Toyota’s. I keep cars 10+ years.
In all that time, the only rusting I’ve ever experienced was on a 2004 RAV4, and this occurred only around the access holes drilled by rustproofing shop.

Car chassis are zinc electro coated when built and which is purported to be highly effective against rust. As long as this plating is not injured panel rust should not be a problem.

Based on my experience, I would pass on rustproofing.

 

Preventive or reactive, personally I prefer to be reactive and after every "not-that-below-freezing" day after a blizzard I get a full touchless car wash to get whatever salt off the body and underbody. I had my car on the lift yesterday and I should've taken pictures but overall the body isn't THAT rusty. If anything, the picture below and whatever isn't the body is what is rusty (steering knuckle, struts, exhaust, bolts, etc.). In addition, the body is also overall rust free except for one small area on the door (you will have to search hard to find it but it is on the Front Right door edge). Whatever scratches I got, I covered them up with the Turtle Wax Pen and Touchup Paint. I'm in Wisconsin.

 

It's more about drilling access holes which you then seal off with plastic plugs, than it is removing panels... I had mine done at Ziebart when car was one day old.

Your Preferred Automotive Protection Provider

Since 1959, Ziebart has been your local expert for all-things automotive, appearance and protection. From rust protection to detailing, paint protection to window tinting, we clean and protect your vehicle to help you avoid costly repairs in the future. With more than 1,200 service centers in 37...

www.ziebart.com

 

If you just wash your car Bimonthly during winter with the undercarriage spray you don't need undercoating.

 

Wool wax is great been doing it on my 13 and now my 20 no rust at all live in New England

 

how is your 4 month prognosis?

i tried the WW in the spray cans (both straw and black) on my truck in the wheel wells, it lasted longer than FF but still ultimately fell off after a few hosings, i am not in the mood to constantly touch it up when its well below freezing out, this year was very bad with the salted slop on the roads around here and in SD

the WW HV paste from a pail that I brushed on looks to have done a remarkable job at sticking, even to the outer body panels i had to put some on there

Anyone undercoat their 12th gen Corolla? Looking at those who live in areas with rough winters. I live in Ontario Canada and the winters are brutal. ~5 months of salted/sanded roads abuses cars around here. This likely isn't for everyone but I'm convinced it's a good idea for those in areas that deal with salty roads for months on end.

I just recently bought a Wool Wax pro spray gun/kit to start doing this myself. Waiting for it to arrive - hopefully tackle the job next weekend when doing a winter wheel swap. I know there's a lot of different rust inhibiting products out there, I've done a lot of homework on this and decided on a lanolin based product. Wool Wax is similar to Fluid Film. Requires frequent touch-ups but easy to apply and remove if needed. Cosmoline based undercoating's seem interesting and I'm sure they work but what steers me away is how difficult it would be to remove if needed. Requires a solvent.

Planning on going pretty extensive with this and removing many of the underbody panels to spray underneath. Doesn't look too bad from the pictures I've seen but there's quite a few panels, bolts and plastic fasteners. Anyone have experience pulling all the underbody panels off or undercoating in general?

pics if needed!

 

I used that oem Toyota resin stuff that Toyota Canada promotes at the dealer, it's like a clear tacky film.

They did my rav4 and I don't see any rust, they also guarantee the paint and under coat for 10 years or life I can't remember good enough for me either way.

P.s. I'm in rough Ontario winters as well

 

I used Rust Check spray from CT to spray in various areas: inside doors using the drain holes, inside fender by the headlights and bottom by the rocker, inside quarter panel by the wheel well, exposed areas of the wheel well, etc. The straw that comes with the can was thin enough to sneak it in between panels to get a generous spray inside.

Warranty for Canada is 5 years unlimited km:

 

Ya that's the trick wording corrosion "perforation" ... they only cover rust if it eats a hole through the metal, they wont cover any other type or rust no matter how bad.

 

Its worth the effort to pull the splash shields under the car to ensure maximum coverage. Yes spray on all metal parts and bolts and anything you can… minus the brakes

I had a 92 Ford Tempo that rusted out. My 95 Integra, 02 RSX, 09 Corolla, wifes 15 Fiat 500, and now 18 Camry have all been Rust Chek’d yearly and no rust issues. Salty coastal Nova Scotia, where they use road salt AND brine… a perfect combo to eat your car up. My opinion is undercoat and rustproofing are worth it if you intend to keep the vehicle >5rs.

 

Thanks, whats the best way to remove the plastic panels? Is it all screws? Anything I should be aware of?

I got my car rust proofed at Krown but I'm unsure if they took the plastic panels off to spray.

 

I can't believe its been nearly a year already since I got the hatchback!
For those living in the salt brine areas, do you undercoat every year or every other year? Krown just sent me their spring offer with $15 off and free salt eliminator application.
Regular price is now $140 +tax, but like any shop their costs are rising.

 

I can't believe its been nearly a year already since I got the hatchback!
For those living in the salt brine areas, do you undercoat every year or every other year? Krown just sent me their spring offer with $15 off and free salt eliminator application.
Regular price is now $140 +tax, but like any shop their costs are rising.

I went for the Krown application in Spring this year and it was great. They had the salt eliminator car wash and also included interior detailing, which includes carpet vacuum, rubber car mat washing and quick detailing or wiping of dash and doors. Awesome for the price.

The Krown owner says Spring promotions are better than Fall. A family friend did an application last week and the Summer promotion was $20 off, free fast wax and tire shine.

 

I've found

Any car made in Japan rusts to holy hell

It's gota be the trip across the ocean ,or Japanese steel

I had a bmw ,04 ,no rust ,none.

My 12 mazda3,inner tie rods ,frozen solid

 

I've found

Any car made in Japan rusts to holy hell

It's gota be the trip across the ocean ,or Japanese steel

I had a bmw ,04 ,no rust ,none.

My 12 mazda3,inner tie rods ,frozen solid

Yep, I’ve hardly ever seen bad rust on a German or most American cars but I’ve seen it on a lot of
Japanese cars.

 

I'll take a Mazda over a BMW any day though, rusted or not 😄
I think Mazda had issues with rust in the past, my 07 Camry is doing really will with no rust except on the exhaust

 

I've sprayed wool wax and fluid film a few times now in almost 3 years of ownership and 3 winters. I went easy this time around since it didn't look like it needed anymore. I just touch up areas that get washed away more than others. I live near Ottawa so lots of salt. I don't see much rust at all. Biggest issue for me is how dirty everything gets since rustproofing is sticky and attracts dust and dirt. I guess a layer of oily/waxy grime over everything is better than rust and seized bolts.

 

I'm in Nova Scotia, lots of road salt, and they brine the roads before storms now which absolutely coats your car.

I go to Rust Chek annually, and have for my last 3 cars (95 Acura Integra, 09 Corolla, now 18 Camry). No rust issues. My prior car, a 92 Ford Tempo, had the rear floor pans rust out (among other issues) and I'm not dealing with that again

 

Has anybody tried rustproofing their own Corolla? Lost of plastic shields under there and wondering if they all need to come off.

 

Nearly 5 years after having it rust-proofed, there are many spots to hit in the engine bay and all over, especially down at the rear where it would tend to rust more... This stuff is really great and it has a pleasant cedar scent.

Kleen-Flo | Products - Honey Goo (kleenflo.com)

 

I'm curious if anyone has just sprayed clear coat on the rust-prone areas instead of the regular old rust preventing oil products which just attract a bunch of dirt and grime?

 

If the brine isn’t washed off, then the dirt sticks to areas that act as shelves. The film will prevent the brine from sticking to the surfaces that are covered.

Invest in one of those tools with wheels that attaches to the garden hose and get in the habit of cleaning it between applications. My recommended suggestions aren’t on par with living in the rust belt.

 

Ya good to know about Krown. I would go with any of the rust prevention treatments.
Also its good to know you can buy smaller aerosol cans to spray in areas you feel like small touchups during the year and do the treatment again next year.

How do I know rust prevention is working? Well, before my first treatment right before Winter, I had steel winter wheels with factory steel lug nuts (No, not chrome but steel - Thanks Toyota). They were brown with rust. During the treatment, one side of the wheels and nuts were sprayed with Krown. The otherside they seem to have missed. So you can see one side is black and the other side lug nuts gets nice and brown and stays this way until Spring when they did the second treatment and gets both sides sprayed and become black in color.

When weather warmed up, I swapped my own wheels and go to jack up the car at the jack points on the side. The crazy thing is I use my glove to feel for the jack points and wiped the coating away! The Krown coating was still black after all the slush, rain and snow.

I even spray my winter steel wheels to prevent rust. Rust shows up in a few yrs for new steel rims. So its better to spray it before rust shows up.

 

This is the best stuff you can use yourself for rust prevention touchups, lubrication and maintenance... It penetrates well, then sticks without washing off. It also has a very pleasant light cedar scent.

Kleen-Flo | Products - Honey Goo (kleenflo.com)

Honey Goo | 330g - Hi-Line (hiline.ca)

 

I used Fluid Film for a while, still have half a bucket of it. [The stuff that comes in cans is thicker than the stuff that comes in spray bottles.] Not a great fan of it to be honest, I find it washes away too quickly. Great for areas that don't get lots of water splashing on it.

Last couple of years I've started to use RP342 which is basically cosmoline in a spray can. No long term data yet, but it looks better to me, seems to stay put better. I still have some FF and will use it in places where I think it makes sense. Smells less than the RP342!

 

Big difference between cosmoline and wool wax products. Cosmo takes solvent to remove. Pros and cons. Pretty easy to touch up spots where wool wax products wash off. I understand the smell bothers people but it goes away