Toyota Forum banner

Wife drove the Highlander in 3rd gear on the highway for 20-25 minutes and it's not driving the same anymore

10K views 52 replies 22 participants last post by  Hayabusafalcon  
#1 ·
Our 1 month old has been at he hospital with a fever for the last week. (She's fine now). Anyways I noticed that the Highlander wasn't driving the same after she drove it back to hospital and traded shifts with me. I asked her if she did anything 'weird' and she confessed to driving here in 3rd gear. She was tired so it is what it is but dang.

It seems like it's about 1/2 as 'snappy' as it was a week ago, it's fairly sluggish now and seems like it's working harder than normal. She likely was doing 80 for 3-4 miles then the rest of the way at 65. I plopped it down to 3rd at 65 and it's pretty loud so damn.... hopefully it'll be okay

any thoughts on what to check or should I just bring it to the dealer for a check up?

thanks
 
#8 ·
I have the OBD link mx+ / mx201, it wasn't plugged in until now so it doesn't have any logs.

Btw I can't figure out how to get the maintenance required light to go away using this app either, I thought it was capable of doing that.

338316
 
#3 · (Edited)
Glad the baby is OK. That is really stressful. Definitely an easy mistake to make under those conditions.
I agree with Van. Check for pending codes,
Check fluids for color. Check for burnt ATF.
Keep a close eye on your fluid levels and color for the next 3000 miles - mark the cold coolant level on the bottle sometime after the car has been sitting for 8 hours or more.
Check your fuel trims and misfire counters.
Listen for a squeal from a glazed accessory belt.
You can try resetting the ECM in case it learned some parameters which are not optimal under normal conditions.
FWD or AWD?
My wife made the same mistake in her 3.3/AWD for about 5 minutes. It seems to be fine.
If you are really concerned, do a combustion gas test (bubble and chemical) and a vacuum gauge screening test for mechanical condition and clogged cats /
exhaust - there are YouTube videos on how to do the tests.

For others who may read this in the future: The only reason to select any forward gear other than DRIVE is to provide engine braking when descending to save your brakes. Holding the wrong gear under load can result in higher operating temperatures and stress on the clutches- not to mention mechanical wear and stress from high revs.
And it is easy to forget to shift back to Drive when you are on a long descent.
 
#4 ·
It's easy to make a mistake during stressful times. Glad to hear your baby is okay.

I'd consider dropping the pan and replacing the filter. Inspect the magnets as well. See how the transmission responds after that. Here's one video and plenty more on YT:


You can look up a reputable and highly rated ATRA (Automatic Transmission Rebuilder's Assoc) member shop nearby:
 
#6 ·
Transmission cooked
Engine overheated

Transmission fluid needs an exchange and I would change the filter and clean the pan magnets.

I would scan for codes. Excessive heat can cook catalytic which could be partially melted. Can also eat spark plugs.

So, consider new plugs, new thermostat, coolant and radiator cap. And, install a new engine air filter.
 
#9 ·
No. the scanner has very limited bi-directional capability but it is great for reading the Toyota modules. It will reset the DTC's. But you can reset the maintenance light by holding the odometer select button. Procedure is in the owner's manual on the Toyota Owners' site. I will post it later if I get a chance.
 
#10 ·
If you're lucky it'll be spark plugs damaged from sustained high speed, and the shight fairy was off sick that day. If you're not lucky it could be burned valves and pistons. In my wild years I burned up a few engines doing just that thing. It takes some serious wrenching to fix mistakes like that and $$$$$. Yeah, and see if any OBD2 codes are set yet.
 
#11 ·
Maintenance Light Reset from 2005 owner's manual page 142:

The system must be reset after the engine oil replacement. Reset the system by the following procedure:
1. Turn the ignition key to the “LOCK” position with the odometer reading shown. (For details, see “Odometer and two trip meters” on page 133 in this Section.)
2. Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position while holding down the trip meter reset knob.
3. Hold down the knob for at least 5 seconds. The odometer indicates “000000” and the light goes off. If the system fails to reset, the light will continue flashing.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for all replies. I'm not going to lie things could be worse. A lot of perspective being in a children's hospital with legitimately sick kids and overhearing parents on the phone relaying some pretty bad news back to a family member or someone.

So probably don't drive it till Monday and drop it off at the dealership and let them check it out and look at the transmission and the other stuff y'all mentioned? There's a Toyota dealership less than a mile away and I'd rather catch up on sleep than be horsing around in the 100 degree hot ass garage.
 
#13 ·
Yes, having a sick kid, especially a baby, puts things into perspective. Glad your story has a happy ending.
Sounds like you have a relationship with your local dealer. But don’t get too discouraged if they come back with some crazy high costs. A dealer would rather fill the bays changing oil on 4th Gens than take a chance repairing a 1st Gen. I always like to have a good independent do diagnostics. They make their living repairing 15 year old cars, and have more flexibility in how they repair them. Just saying you may want a second opinion if the proposed bill is high.
 
#15 ·
That's a really good point thanks. The dealer can't get me in until Thursday, neither could the other Toyota dealership that's not too far away, so I went ahead and scheduled. Luckily my MIL is staying here until next weekend 😐...so it won't be a logistical undertaking for me to take my wife's Corolla to work next week.
Sounds like it'll be worth my time to try calling a few other places, I'll try that on Monday.
 
#19 ·
miz
Just another point based on your comment the car seems sluggish after the high rpm foray. Plugged cats.
Yup. I've seen this before.
Car is driven per normal for a long-long time. Even babied. Then somebody basically rods the piss out of it briefly. All that coke and other schmutz that has collected in the valve train and exhaust manifold suddenly gets blown into the cats and (temporarily) clogs them. Yup.
If you can, try going on an extended trip, say 2-3 hours at expressway speeds. Burn off that gunk. I bet she comes out of it. Hope it does, Haya...
 
#20 ·
I think you are onto something or at least one of the issues. I was just reading through these replies again and then went out to the garage to swap the cars around to have room to at least change the oil out on Highlander and I can just about swear the exhaust smells "different". I can't quite put my finger on it but I think you're right.

It's crazy to think that new catalytic converters would probably cost about the same as some major transmission work.
 
#21 ·
Umm,
Super good news. Cats have come WAY-WAY down. Think CANADA.
I bought a new one (the one mounted below the drivers position). $95 and that was 1- 1/2 years ago. Works perfect!
Check eBay. For some reason several small mfrs. in the suburban Toronto area have popped up and are making replacement cats. And for your HL!!!!!!!
But I'm hoping for you that the cats will unplug on there own.
If not: another pro tip. Clean them with Tide Laundry Detergent. Yup. See YouTube vids by Scotty Kilmer. It's legit.
"Rev up your engines!"
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bear&Meg and miz17
#25 ·
Plus one on backwashing with detergent. I know a shop owner who uses Dawn dish detergent with some success if the cat is not melted or contaminated. Biggest problem is just taking them out and putting them back in again to try it.
 
#23 ·
Miz,
I know you are going to take it to a shop but for reference I have attached a few videos below covering the simple vacuum gauge test I recommend above to screen for clogged exhaust. The method is in the Haynes manual too.
A shop owner / tech I know says he’s had some success with Cataclean. Of course it won’t fix a melted or contaminated cat, but if a cat is clogged just because of carbon buildup it might.



 
#26 ·
CR, yes. I've looked at the forward exhaust configuration. Gonna be no picnic if I ever have to pull them cats.....🐱🐱
Haya....
 
#27 ·
Yah I usually just neglect to reset the maintenance light since I do my own oil changes. Now I'm rethinking that philosophy b/c I don't want any warning lights or dash info to be ignored in the future. The low gas light came on the other day and I almost didn't notice since I'm used to seeing that amber maintenance light.
 
#30 ·
Another thought: Does anyone know how the rev limiter operates? If it's just cutting spark and not fuel then you had a lot of raw fuel burning in those cats. If that's the case they're probably toast. Back in the day my buddies and I tried to blow up a wounded field car by putting a rock on the gas pedal. After a couple of minutes at redline the cat was glowing red!
 
#34 ·
yes it will be the transmissin, it would haveto be an .
many veriants, why take it to the best transmissin averhaler, if is a common fault, they will have one
on the shelf, put it in and away you go, they would then, carge you, a standard. that is theeir work parts an their magine. you will be screwaed big timei if you did any thenig, elese, just think of the senarios of asking your freindly machanism start scering them as they have done to many, Goverment as you and i know, dose not exist any y, no tak on any thing, fance ad on tak, let the person you take be aware, he will pass this to every one he knows,as all others, this will get that understanding spread
P
 
#36 ·
I'm going to agree with some of the above responses. 1. Don't go to a dealer. Every town has a highly regarded Toyota specialist garage. Ask on Nextdoor or on the Facebook page for your neighborhood. 2. Do a drain-and-fill on your transmission. Twice. Cheap and easy. Use the correct Toyota fluid or the Valvoline MaxLife that says Toyota on the label. If you can drop the pan and change the filter, even better. When I bought my 2004 Highlander it had seen regular service, but I think they used the wrong fluid, because the transmission would lurch and jerk when accelerating from a stop sign. I did 3 drain and fills over 2 years and it's perfect now. Transmission fluid has to be just right to work well. If it's old, dirty, burned, or the wrong type, it can't do the job.
 
#38 ·
I would be surprised to find out that this episode damaged anything on this Toyota.

If there is no engine light though and the power has actually dropped significantly, I would first check the air filter and oil level.

I made this mistake in my Corolla and it took me a few to realize why the transmission seemed not to be engaging top gear on the freeway. I almost never shift manually, but had selected third gear on that day to try diagnosing a whining noise, then forgot to move the lever into drive.
 
#40 ·
If I were going to the trouble of removing a cat to attempt cleaning as last ditch, I'd use a solvent with a bit more zoot on carbon deposits or contamination, than Dawn. B-12, Turpentine or Toluene. Soak and occasionally slosh in warmed solution (120 F) for a few hours, preferably outside.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bear&Meg