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2007 Camry V6: how milles to warm up to reach normal temp?

10K views 31 replies 8 participants last post by  franky932  
#1 · (Edited)
2007 Camry V6: how milles to warm up to reach normal temp?

When i start cold (30 F ) it take at least 5 milles (in town) to reach the

''ALMOST'' 9 O CLOCK mark on the temp gauge or 185 F on my

ULTRAGAUGE connect to the OBDII connector.

At 20F outside temp or less : i plug the block heater (cartridge type in the block (not coolant) )

Then when i start the car the TEMP on Ultragauge is 60F after 2 hours on 110 Volts.

then go to city..........and take the same 5 milles to reach 185F. so same time.

My Question: is it NORMAL that it take at least 5 milles to warm up at 185F.

is my thermostat OK because it is a big (long) job to replace myself and it is cold outside .

Q.: 2 : When i stop the car about 25 minutes (20F outside temp)) the temp is downdown below the first white mark on car gauge.......

normal or not ?: ( if not :maybe the radiator pressure cap?)

never had a japanese car.......my caddy was at normal temp before 5 milles

tyvm to replys:smile:
 
#2 ·
That sounds about right. My '98 and '10 V6 Camrys takes about 2-3 miles before it's at temp, and I live in San Diego (~60-70F right now). It will also depend on the type of driving - when the car is first started the computer "holds" the transmission in 3rd (I believe), so the faster you go in 3rd the quicker the engine will warm up. It of course will shift if you try to go faster, but it will delay shifting to warm up the engine faster.
 
#3 ·
That's approximately right. If you had a bad thermostat, you'd take half an hour or more during the summer to warm the engine up, let alone at freezing or below. And yes, engines cool down quickly in low ambient temps.

I'd leave the block heater on when temps are below 50 or so. Overkill maybe, but it makes a big difference in warmup time.

Lastly...trust your UltraGauge more than the dash temperature gauge.
 
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#5 ·
THANKS ALL three for your answers.........the cartridge type block heater is not like one ''IN THE BLOCK''.......

Q.: 1:is it possible that it shutt off at 80F...?.......it never go pass 80F.

when i start with the block heater.....it s get warm faster but when it reach 130-140F......it continue to go up but very much slower. not easy to understand that at a certain point ..it is VERY very SLOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

maybe japanese car work like that......and the design is like that......

it is a V6......maybe 4 cyl are faster to warm up.......

GM cars that i had since 30 years get warmer very faster........

Q.:2:and if it get colder that fast when engine stop...........the radiator cap is not faulty? is it a pressure cap?

on summer......sure it is faster.......:grin:
Thanks
 
#6 ·
As long as it gets up to but not over operating temp in a reasonable amount of time your ok. The distance it takes is all relative to throttle, load, ambient temp., and even heater setting. In my opinion (which I know ain't worth much) 5 minutes and/or 5 miles is reasonable. I know with my 02 4 cyl, if I sit at idle with the heat on hottest and tHe fan at the 3rd highest setting it won't even reach operating temp if it is below 30*F outside.
 
#7 ·
I forget to mention something........at 130F i start the blower to MAX........maybe that dont help to warm much faster ?????????????

for your 5 mntes or 5 milles : not the same thing.......at idles i try 5 minutes....and it reach 100F at 15-20F (no block heater ON.):nerd:
 
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#8 · (Edited)
I change my oil in last day of october..........Mobil One synthetic 5W30 and with Mobil One ''extended '' (15000K) oil filter......

did not find synthetic Mobil One 0W30 in my area.......

previous ownner change trani oil at 49K (78 KM).......(dont know if filter as being change)
 
#13 ·
I watch my coolant temps like a hawk in the winter. Heater off warms up FAR quicker than heater on. Grille block mitigates but does not eliminate this by any means.

Your Cad may have had a less sensitive temp gauge than your Toyota. For the most part, the gauges are glorified idiot lights. The actual idiot light in my Echo is even worse; it makes you THINK your engine is warm when the blue light goes out, but it's actually only at 138*F. UltraGauge is going to be a far better source for information and for what does and doesn't work in terms of warmups.
 
#16 · (Edited)
in 1992 my Cady had a computer!!!!!!!!!!!! like the Camry XLS but better........my previous 1986 The Ville had the same computer...........

exact digital temp , gaz millage, trip, instant & average in MPG or in metric, milles or km, and voltage and more........ALL that is 1986 + !!!!!!!!!!

plus self diagnosis for the engine soon or engine know lights by pushing 2 buttons of the air conditionner at the same time plus other diagnosis.......all data like the Ultragauge.

the reason i buy that ultragauge....in the first place to monitor all..........:grin:

and caddy and camry dont warm up in the same fashion......caddy more faster and stay warmer if engine dont run for 30-40 minutes and less.:surprise:
 
#14 ·
frankly,
My comment about not knowing how the heater works was to Vangm25, since he/she does not think the heater will affect coolant temps. And you are right running the heat on full hot, highest fan will help an over heating engine. I had to do it to get the final 50 miles home in a 83 Olds. And it sucked 95*F outside and I'm running full heat, but I did make it home. Couldn't do that with an aluminum head/block.
 
#15 · (Edited)
My v6 when I first bought it took forever to heat up.I wanted to change the thermostat. Back then I only drove it like 1-2 a week. Put about 3k in the first year. Then I started working and driving her everyday. Now she heats up rather fast.
When its 30-40ish it takes about 3 minutes to get to the first thick white line, which is about 100-110f degrees (Thats when i start driving) If its 20f it will take about 4 minutes.
Hasn't gotten much colder than yet so that all I know so far.
I turn the fan on the first speed (all the way to the red on the temp knob and vent closed if its not raining) when I jump in, which is like 1-2 minutes after it starts because I have remote start. Then raise it as I start driving if I need too. It reaches operating temp about 2-3 miles and i hardly past 1500 rpm for the first 3 miles,maybe 25k if i need to pass light or something.

Do you just start it and drive away? If yes 5 miles sounds normal

Do you blast the heat when it reaches 130? I would just let it stay on the first speed after 2-3 minutes and raise it as it heats up. It doesn't hurt the car in anyway if you turn the heat on when its cold. Just takes a bit longer to heat up, but leaving it on 1 which is very slow won't do much.

When you idle and its cold outside and the heaters on, the temperature will drop. Simply because you're taking away more heat than the car can create idling at 800 rpm.

Your other cars may have a thermostat that opens as a higher temperature so naturally it will heat up faster.
My old van reaches operating temp in the time my camry hits like 120f. But then again my van has a fast idle for about 3 min ( im not sure never checked it) where the camry just has a fast idle at 1500 rpm for like 20-30 sec, then idles at 1000, then normal around 7-800 rpm.
 
#19 ·
When its 30-40ish it takes about 3 minutes to get to the first thick white line, which is about 100-110f degrees (Thats when i start driving)
^^ This. I would wait until it hits 100 before driving it. You're doing better than most due to the synth oil (most as in those using dino oil), but the worst wear and tear is when the oil is not lubricating as well due to it being cold. I have my ScanGauge II set to show water temp, and I don't move the car until I hit 100. That's still not the BEST temp, but it gets to norm rage pretty quickly after that (mine is an I4, not the V6).
 
#20 ·
Lol I do wait. Read it again, the first thick mark represents 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit. That's when I start driving away. In the summer she gets like 1 minute for everything to move around, since it's so hot the coolant and oil just stays warm