Get a K&N OEM filter good for 2-3 HP and will make it sound better, headers 10-15HP, then a high flow cat 3-5HP, then a cam after all of that is done if you wanna dive in.


Unless you have experience working inside an engine a cam is the last thing you want to do. Upgrading a cam without exhaust upgrades isn't gonna do dick for you anyway, it will just increase back pressure even more. A performance camshaft causes the intake valve to remain open longer than stock so more air can enter the cylinder. Immediately after (or shorting before)the intake valve closes, the exhaust valve is opening. Since you put more air in, more exhaust has to come out, but your exhaust manifold limits the amount of exhaust that can be moved through it at once because the exhaust channels from each cylinder are not an equal length, so because the cylinders fire in an even order, but the exhaust channels are not an even length, you have exhaust from different cylinders fighting to get in the manifold - This is called back pressure. It's a horsepower loss, and the reason you upgrade a manifold to a header. Installing a performance cam without a header will increase backpressure, resulting in minimal gains or even net losses on some engines.

I took a few minutes and tried to find one for you, seems pretty limited, but this MAY fit , the mounting to block is the same for sure, but I don't know about routing, look more into it.

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Headers-Exhaust-M2-Performance/dp/B002FCC4YG[/ame]

 

K & N filter won't do squat. It has 2 cams. Maybe somebody out there makes an ECU that will increase performance. Your best bet is to trade the 2.2 Camry for one with a V6. Not trying to insult anyone but, It is 2019, you would think by now that every one would know that mods. done to non-computer controlled, cars with carburetors, do not really work the same on OBDll vehicles.

 

Your engine still has to measure how much air is going in. A manifold absolute pressure sensor allows the ECU to extrapolate airflow and then modify fuel input AND timing. Opening an intake valve for longer is more effective if you are able to intake more air.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GS69owXpGdY

 

Spending money on a cam to add maybe 10 HP that won't even be noticed sounds like a perfect way to waste money . So is the K & N filter .

 

I have my full exhaust for sale for 2.2L here:
https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/...2-fs-gen4-camry-5spd-swap-obx-r-exhaust-tein-springs-ss-lines.html#post13660250


I did an extensive review of it, the link in the FS thread.


Nobody makes cams for these engines, you'll have to remove your own and send them in for a custom grind that you'll then use with helper shims. Expect to pay $350+ for the set, and then you'll have to go through the tedious process of setting all the valve clearances - it is a laborious job. Some companies will weld up the cams and grind them (to avoid helper shims), but the cost is double and you'll need to set the clearances from scratch either way.

 

Do an LS swap.

 

 

Oh, c'mon. The guy is only asking for 10 HP. There's a possible chance he might follow through with this, unlike 99.99% of first-time posters asking for MOAR POWAH.

 

I assume you have the 5S-FE? No bolt-ons or head mods will add much HP to it. Even with a tune. Besdies, 10 HP won't do much on a Camry. (It's a 3000lbs car)

If you want that car to be faster / quicker, there are two possible options.

1. Turbo

2. Engine swap.

Is your camry automatic? If so, do a swap to manual. The automatic trannys for the 3rd and 4th gen Camrys will break on you as soon as you add more than stock horsepower.

In my research, trying to build a 5S for turbo is so much harder than an engine swap.

Got money? Do a 3S-GTE swap.

Got less money? do a 1MZ swap.

Got under $5000 USD? STOP.

 

Don't be so brutal to the new guy. I remember there is a phontom super charger thread. It might add 20 hp

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

Phantom electric supercharger thread.

Unless it’s changed, it’s not easy to get one.

 

1st: delete muffler.

 

The thread starter can get 10hp by greasing the muffler bearings. Deleting isn't always required.

 

OP still hasn't stated whether he has automatic or manual transmission.

 

Mufflers have bearings?

 

https://www.procharger.com/centrifugal-supercharger


And yes, high air flow filters don't really do much. As I have them on all of our cars since 2001 or so.

 

And yes, high air flow filters don't really do much. As I have them on all of our cars since 2001 or so.

I used to use them all the time, until I started running oil samples to Blackstone and saw the increase in silicon contamination.
I'll never use one again and will never recommend one be used on a daily driver.

 

Instead of servicing your muffler bearings replace them with turbo mufflers.

 

Instead of servicing your muffler bearings replace them with turbo mufflers.

*SPITS OUT COFFEE*
Excuse me while I go scrub my eyes...


:grin:

 

The threadstarter hasnt been back. Probably drives a fart canned big winged civic.

And if he has a Camry 2.2, the local autopart store might still have 10hp+ flux capacitors

https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-500.html

 

This past weekend I replaced all four struts with KYB strut plus assemblies (about $480 minus $100 rebate, hopefully), installed 4 new Moog problem solver end links (about $120) and replaced OEM RSB (17mm) with a Whiteline BTR39 20mm rear sway bar ($180). The difference is pretty dramatic. It is clear that crank torque and HP won't change. But by preventing the car from sloshing around, probably more torque and HP can be passed down to wheels? I think it is possible because my butt dyno improved a lot. (If someone can explain my experience in scientific terms, it will be really helpful.)


As to OP and possibly others in the future, considering updating/improving the suspension parts is another route when you want to improve acceleration. The end result is from the wheels, so you don't have to always focus on engine. Feeling is believing!

 

This past weekend I replaced all four struts with KYB strut plus assemblies (about $480 minus $100 rebate, hopefully), installed 4 new Moog problem solver end links (about $120) and replaced OEM RSB (17mm) with a Whiteline BTR39 20mm rear sway bar ($180). The difference is pretty dramatic. It is clear that crank torque and HP won't change. But by preventing the car from sloshing around, probably more torque and HP can be passed down to wheels? I think it is possible because my butt dyno improved a lot. (If someone can explain my experience in scientific terms, it will be really helpful.)


As to OP and possibly others in the future, considering updating/improving the suspension parts is another route when you want to improve acceleration. The end result is from the wheels, so you don't have to always focus on engine. Feeling is believing!

Good for you. Time and money well spent.

You will get slightly quicker off the line pickup as weight transfer happens quicker now, but total HP/torque numbers are not affected at all - if you were to put it on a dyno before and after, it would be the same.
Another benefit of what you did is quicker braking reaction in same way. New shocks, so front wheels get loaded sooner applying more braking force.